Fresh is best ... local produce at the monthly Lancefield and District Farmers' Market.
Kristin Lee samples the town hosting its agricultural show.
During their expedition from Melbourne to the Gulf of Carpentaria in 1860, Burke and Wills struck camp amid sweeping pastoral land ringed by rolling hills with a backdrop of striking granite boulder-lined ranges. Today, this traditional farming district of Lancefield, which is 70 kilometres north of the city, is quietly emerging as a wine, arts and foodies' region.
Complementing its startling rural outlook, the town's High Street is extraordinarily wide and retains its past with well-preserved late-19th-century Victorian buildings. History abounds here. The area has been the site of significant palaeontological finds and Aboriginal artefacts made largely from greenstone quarried from nearby Mount William have been discovered.
But for me, it's the morning of the fourth Saturday of the month. I'm wandering the long, grassy Centre Plantation, the tree-lined hub, browsing, tasting and stocking up on the local and mostly organic-grown produce. Here I savour the likes of ambrosial pestos, honeys, olive oils, cheeses, wines and some decadent double chocolate and orange with Cointreau pudding. It's the monthly Lancefield and District Farmers' Market, an exposition of refreshing community spirit in this smart country town.
Attractions
An imposing sight at the main junction, former luxury guesthouse the Macedonia (circa 1889) features an array of antiques on three levels, from house kimonos to a film projector, plus outstanding views (phone 5429 1666).
Sea of Love, at 10 High Street, has a distinct, functional and interesting assortment of classic and industrial wares, plus clothing and jewellery (see seaoflove.com.au).
Wu Lin Retreat, at 47 Sherwood Court, is an authentic martial arts and well-being experience with traditional Chinese medicine, meditation, tai chi, self-defence and Chinese internal kung fu. Hand-built by owners James and Shou Mei Sumarac, the retreat resembles a small traditional Chinese village, complete with 400-year-old monastery doors (see jamessumarac.com).
For those seeking lost ancestors who may have frequented the area, or for some local insight and a cuppa, Lancefield Museum operates in the old courthouse on the corner of Main Road and Chauncey Street. More like a history and resource centre, it opens Monday to Wednesday and Friday from 10am-3pm. Entry is by gold-coin donation (phone 0418 172 659).
The eight-kilometre, undulating Lancefield-Romsey Centenary Walking and Bicycle Trail runs directly between the two towns, with some superb rural vistas.
The Burke and Wills Track, a sealed road that leads to Heathcote, follows the explorers' journey northwards from the outskirts of Lancefield. The road passes a mix of open pasture, dense Australian bushland and hills peppered with boulders. Alternatively, a lesser-known but highly visual drive is via the winding Lancefield-Tooborac Road, which provides a formidable scene of "the marbles" (granite protrusions).
With its cooler climate and higher elevation, Lancefield district has an abundance of wineries. A notable standout for award-winning vintages is the Knight family's Granite Hills, which you'll find on the Burke and Wills Track. It opens seven days a week (see granitehills.com.au).
Curly Flat winery, at 263 Collivers Road (phone 5429 1956), specialises in pinot noir, chardonnay, pinot grigio and rose. The homestead cellar door opens from 1-5pm on weekends, or weekdays by appointment.
Arts and shopping
The easy-to-stroll High Street has classic veranda-fronted shops that offer an interesting and diverse range of arts and products.
The Mad Gallery and Cafe, at 19 High Street, has regularly changing exhibitions within its buzzing space. Long white feature walls showcase a selection of quality, contemporary works (phone 5429 1432, see madgallery.com.au).
Further down the road, at 33 High Street, is Bankart Gallery, established at the distinct 1880 National Bank building. It hosts frequent exhibitions and events, such as art and wine-tasting weekends. Also, resident artist Salvatore Triglia conducts art classes (see bankartgallery.com).
Across the broad thoroughfare, Red Door Books, at 34 High Street (phone 5429 2566), is well stocked with all things novel.
Lancefield Cottage Florist and Gifts, at 24 High Street (phone 5429 2258), has an exquisitely presented range of products, from handbags to quality tea towels and floral arrangements.
Shopaholics and caffeine addicts can get their fashion and latte hit in one at Excessories, at 12 High Street (phone 5429 2144).
Events
Aside from the monthly farmers' market on the fourth Saturday of the month from 9am-1pm (third Saturday in December), there are some worthwhile annual events.
Tomorrow's Lancefield Agricultural Show includes horse, dog and sheep events, food stalls and art and craft competitions.
The Budburst Festival, from November 14-15, is a time for the cellar doors of Lancefield and the Macedon Ranges to celebrate a new vintage with food and wine as the buds burst in spring (see macedonrangeswine.com.au).
Where to eat
The Aspy, or Aspire Cafe and Lounge, as it is more formally known, at 32 High Street (phone 5429 1084), is an uber-cool cafe that transforms to a restaurant on Friday and Saturday evenings. Open-mic and acoustic nights feature regularly. The Mad Gallery and Cafe and the Macedonia also have good food.
Where to stay
The Farmers Arms Retreat (circa 1862), at 12-14 Dunsford Street, is an elegant B&B enveloped by charming gardens and a creek. Rates, from $155 a night, include a cooked breakfast (see farmersarmsretreat.com.au). Glen Erin, at Lancefield, is a multi-purpose venue that includes some comfortable retreat-like accommodation and conference facilities at 200 Rochford Road. Suites have king-size beds, mod-cons and vineyard views (see glenerinretreat.com.au).
Getting there
Lancefield is about an hour's drive north of Melbourne via the Tullamarine Freeway and the Melbourne-Lancefield Road.
More information
The Grange at Lancefield, 50 Melbourne-Lancefield Road, has a visitor information outlet, or see visitmacedonranges.com.
LOCAL'S VIEW
FOR the past two decades, Aspire Cafe owner Michelle Coon has called Lancefield home. West Australian-born Coon lives on a small acreage with her family and an assortment of animals.
"I thought Lancefield was a great opportunity to bring up children," she says. "The lifestyle is slower. We are not right in town but still close to it and it's about an hour's drive from the city."
Coon enthuses about what's in and around the historic pastoral town. "What's great about Lancefield is the classic facades on the shop fronts, with most of the main street buildings built around the 1870s," she says. "There's the beautiful wide main street, there's not much traffic, there are the wineries, plus it's just a hop, skip and a jump from Tooborac, where there are some amazing boulders on the hills.
"The town has a great agricultural show every October. It's very green and alternative. And ... the [monthly] farmers' market is second to none. It's an excellent opportunity to sample some of the region's finest produce."
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