This was published 1 year ago
Dusseldorf's best restaurants and bars: Come thirsty to Napoleon's slice of Paris in Germany
By Daniel Fallon
Dusseldorf Alstadt is packed with bars and nightclubs on the banks of the Rhine.Credit: German National Tourist Board
Napoleon Bonaparte once called Dusseldorf "un petit Paris" – or so the story goes. The little French emperor was no doubt in a good mood after being entertained at Zum Schiffchen, a brewery and restaurant that continues to thrive in the heart of the German city. He was one of the establishment's famous guests over a history that stretches back to 1628.
We are no-less hungry as we push open its giant entry door and step inside. The oldest restaurant in Dusseldorf has had a modern touch-up since Napoleon ordered in 1811, including a bronze sculpture of the French leader in one corner. Light yellow paint and rustic wooden finishes give the interior a maritime feel that fits the bill.
The name of the restaurant – "To the Boat" – and the model of the classic old sailing vessel confirms this theme. The brewery is located near the old port, which is now a tourist hub. Before long we are seated in the bustling restaurant and have a round of malty Schlosser Alt in our hands. It is a cosy atmosphere away from outside chill.
The former farming and fishing village is now known for its mix of historic cultural landmarks.Credit: German National Tourist Board
"What do you feel like?" my expat friend Chris asks. "Wait – you're hungry, you should have this."
He turns to the waiter and orders in decent German.
"Er wird haben Schinken-Schweinehaxe 'Zum Schiffen' mist Sauerkraut und Bratkartoffein."
Before long, a plate carrying a giant grilled knuckle of pork with sauerkraut and potatoes lands in front of me, a knife protruding from the top like it is Excalibur. German restaurants specialise in this kind of hearty fare and I gratefully accept the challenge in front of me. It takes some time to consume before we are revived by the cool night air for a wander around the historic side of Dusseldorf. There is a quaintness to many of the buildings here.
The farming and fishing village – "dorf" means village – that was established in the 7th century has grown into one of Europe's most attractive and wealthiest cities. With a population above 600,000, Dusseldorf spreads out from the banks of the Rhine River in the north-west German state of North Rhine-Westphalia.
It is now known for its mix of historic cultural landmarks (Tonhalle Dusseldorf – concert hall; the Baroque period Benrath Palace), modern architecture (Dreischeibenhaus skyscraper, Gehry buildings, Rheinturm – Rhine Tower), arts (Kunstakadamie art academy; K21 Standehaus art and design museum) and its fashion industry. There also are nearby historic castles to explore such as Die Kaiserpfalz in Kaiserswerth (kaiserpfalz-kaiserswerth.de ) – ruins that date back to 700 that are open seasonally – and Schloss Burg (en.schlossburg.de), which offers everything from guided tours to re-enactments of historic battles. Dusseldorf also remains an important industrial hub with many global corporations choosing to operate here.
Everything is close at hand – you can easily explore Dusseldorf by bike or public transport. One Dusseldorf Card will give you access to buses and trains, free entry to museums and discounts to boat and city tours and theatre shows among other things.
But tonight, we are here to explore its eateries and bars. Zum Schiffchen is located in Dusseldorf Alstadt ('Old Town'), which is commonly referred to as the 'Longest Bar in the World'. I am not exactly sure if this is lost in translation, but it essentially turns out to be an area that is packed with hundreds of bars and nightclubs. We wander to a large marquee that has been set up on the banks of the Rhine as a giant beer tent for the folk festival Oktoberfest (oktoberfest.de/en/).
As barges pass up or down the famous river, we order two steins of weissbier (glass jugs that hold a litre) and take in an astounding sight. Grown men and women dressed in full lederhosen have jumped up on tables around us and are singing in full voice along to some of the gaudiest eighties-sounding electro-pop tunes I've ever heard (Eurovision-esque), coming through an unseen speaker system.
We can only smile and drink along on our bench – the Germans are letting their hair down. While it might be their version of Waltzing Matilda, I understand why David Hasselhoff once had a hit here with Looking for Freedom. It's great fun, nonetheless.
Heading back into the heart of Alstadt, Chris leads me between swirling groups of bar-goers to his favourite hole-in-the wall establishment – Et Kabuffke Killepitsch Stube. We line up on the footpath to receive two shots of Killepitsch – a dark red herbal liqueur, which is served as a digestif.
"This will help that pork knuckle settle," Chris says, smiling.
"I certainly hope it does, considering my calorie intake tonight," I reply quietly before swallowing the bittersweet nip. We watch as groups of Rhinelanders and tourists move into the night. I wonder if Napoleon had ever finished his night in Dusseldorf with Killepitsche?
THE DETAILS
FLY
A selection of airlines connect to Dusseldorf with one stop in the Middle East, including Emirates, Qatar Airways and Etihad. See etihad.com; emirates.com; qatarairways.com
STAY
Living Hotel De Medici is a luxury hotel situated in the heart of Dusseldorf's historic Alstadt. As well as the trappings of a five-star hotel, De Medici features its own art gallery as well as fine French cuisine in the Brasserie Stadthaus. Rooms from €130 ($205) a night
See living-hotels.com/hotel-de-medici-duesseldorf/
TOUR
Visit Dusseldorf's Alstadt or 'old town' for a night of revelry - eating, drinks and dancing. There are over 300 bars and nightclubs to explore in the "Longest Bar in the World". Entry is free or take a 90-minute guided tour with an expert to learn about the history of Alstadt and discover its most interesting features for €17 ($27). See duesseldorf-tourismus.de
MORE
Daniel Fallon travelled at his own expense.
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