Your move ... chess players in the famous Szechenyi baths at Pest.Credit: AFP
Shaney Hudson shares her tips for exploring the Hungarian capital.
STAY
Budget
The jazzy Cotton House Hotel (Jokai utca 26, 354 2600, www.cottonhouse.hu) has rooms decorated in 1920s and 1930s styles from €49 a night. Outside the centre, Villa Korall is a charming bed and breakfast with eight rooms, from €45 (Radoc utca 19, 246 1992). In town, the 11th Hour Cinema Hostel has a self-equipped kitchen for guests, an inner courtyard and bargain dorm beds, from €11, €58/double (Magyar utca 11, 266 2153, www.11thhourcinemahostel.com).
Mid-range
High-quality, affordable options include the four-star Continental Hotel Zara, opened in June in the downtown area, with rooms from €80 including breakfast (Dohany utca 42-44, 815 1000, www.continentalhotelzara.com). Find some breathing room at the Danubius Grand Hotel on Margaret Island in centre of the Danube River, which has the feel of a country retreat (€80, Margaret Island, 889 4700, www.danubiushotels.com). Big rooms on a small budget can be found at the reliable Hotel Pest near the opera house, with 25 single and double rooms from €90 (Paulay Ede utca, 343 1198, www.hotelpest.hu), while the oriental-themed Hotel Marmara (€99), right next to the Grand Boulevard, is another good option (Nagy Ignac utca 21, 501 9100, www.hotel-marmara.com).
Luxe
Sofitel Budapest Chain Bridge has an enviable position on the Danube, with views over Chain Bridge and the Castle District. Queen rooms with a river view start from €138 (Roosevelt ter 2, 266 1234, www.sofitel.com). Art'otel (from €149, Bem rakpart 16-19, 487 9487, www.artotels.com/budapest) is a stylish designer hotel by the river, with a collection of 579 works by US artist Donald Sultan and free Wi-Fi. In the Castle District, St George Residence has huge, self-contained rooms with separate bedrooms in a 700-year-old building (Gold Suites from €179, Fortuna utca 4, 393 5700, www.stgeorgehotel.hu). The Corinthia Grand Hotel Royal (from €121, Erzsebet korut 43-49, 479 4000, www.corinthia.com/budapest) includes entry to its renowned Royal Spa in the room rate.
Lash out
Next to the Hungarian Parliament and overlooking the Chain Bridge, the Danube and the Castle District, the Four Seasons Hotel Gresham Palace is considered one of the most elegant hotels in Eastern Europe. The hotel has 179 palatial rooms with vaulted ceilings in a restored art-nouveau palace. Even if you can't stay, it's worth sneaking a peek at the gorgeous lobby, with its stained-glass windows, stunning chandeliers and glass atrium (from €340, Roosevelt ter 5-6, 268 6000, www.fourseasons.com/budapest). The recently renovated Residence Izabella has an ambassador suite available from €249 (Izabella utca 61, 475 5900, www.mamaison.com/budapest-residence-izabella).
SHOP + PLAY
To market
Built in 1890 and recently renovated, the three-storey Central Market is packed with fresh fruit and vegetables, garlands of chilli, goose liver and salami. The market mainly caters to locals but the humble tourist is not forgotten; pick up your souvenir packets of paprika and embroidered tablecloths. (Fovam Ter 1-3, closed on Sundays). At Ecseri Piac flea market on the outskirts of town, you can rummage for antique treasures (Nagykorosi utca 156). Head upstairs to one of the cosy cafes at Batthyany Ter Market (Batthyany ter 5), which looks across the Danube to the Parliament building.
Go shop
Bargain hunters take note. Hungary is one of the most affordable places to shop in Europe. For those wanting to take home something more substantial than a souvenir tea towel, head to Vaci utca, the main pedestrian restaurant and shopping area starting just outside the Central Market. Here, leading European fashion chains such as Zara, H&M and Mango sell their threads in Hungarian forints, a currency cheaper than the euro. If antiques and fine art are more your style, head to Falk Miksa utca near the bridge to Margaret Island. More than 30 galleries, antique and bric-a-brac shops have affordable goodies such as old soda-pop machines, silk rugs, porcelain dolls and antique handmade brooches.
Live music
The State Opera House has an active musical program that ensures performances almost every night of the week, with tickets from a bargain 300 forints ($1.55) to 11,900 forints (Andrassy utca 22, 331 2550, www.opera.hu). For an authentic Hungarian folk experience, Fono Music Hall in southern Budapest offers dance lessons and performances of live folk music several times a week (Sztregova utca 3, 206 5300, www.fono.hu). Laid-back music lovers should head to Romkert, an outdoor pub fronting the river in Buda, near Erzsebet Bridge, which features an eclectic mix of live acts. (Dobrentei ter 2, www.romkert.hu).
Nightclubs
Budapest has a thriving, diverse clubbing scene. A38 is one of the more interesting, set on board a refurbished stone-carrier ship with four storeys of bars and beats (near Petofi Bridge, Muegyetem Rakpart, 464 3940, www.a38.hu). Challenging A38 for the innovative venue award is Cinetrip, which hosts dance parties in heated thermal baths. Called a Water Circus, punters boogie in the heated baths while DJs spin and video projections light up the surface of the water (Szechenyi Spa, 11 Allatkerti korut, www.cinetrip.hu). Creol Bar offers funky Latin beats in a more traditional environment (Roosevelt ter 7-8, 302 7909, www.creolbar.hu) while Cafe del Rio plays electronica in its outdoor garden until the early hours on summer nights. (On the Buda side of Petofi Bridge, 297 2158, www.rio.hu).
SEE + DO
Cafe culture
Budapest is filled with atmospheric cafes. Head to Raday utca and its surrounding streets for a selection of bars and cafes patronised by the cool crowd. For something a little more traditional, head somewhere like Gerbeaud, which has been open since 1858. The landmark cafe remains one of the biggest in Europe with an ornate, gilded interior and indulgent pastries (Vorosmarty ter 7, 429 9020, www.gerbeaud.hu). Creative types can be found penning their poetry into the late hours at the restored Central Cafe in Pest (Karolyi Mihaly utca 9, 266 2110, www.centralkavehaz.hu) while romantics should settle at Litea cafe, a bookshop and cafe located in a glass pavilion in the Buda Castle district (I. Hess Andras ter 4, www.litea.hu).
Snack attack
Hungarian pastries like beigli, nut rolls or kifli make a great snack on the go. Markets are also a great place for a quick bite — goulash and dumplings are worth trying, as is langos — deep-fried dough covered in cheese or cream. At lunchtime, take a detour into the market at Hold utca, where you can grab a tasty, cheap lunch with the locals in a traditional environment. Also keep an eye out for Etkezde, cheap local diners where you sit at shared tables and eat home-style food. Vegetarians seeking respite from meat-laden Hungarian menus should try the fast-food chain Hummus Bars (Alkotmany utca and Kertesz utca 39, www.hummusbar.hu).
Top of the town
Costes is the toast of the restaurant scene after receiving Hungary's first Michelin star. The restaurant trucks in 95 per cent of its produce from Paris and has a great tasting menu (Raday utca 4, 219 0696, www.costes.hu). Arcade Bistro is a long-standing favourite with visitors and locals for its experimental fine food and garden terrace (Kiss Janos Altabornagy 38, 225 1969, www.arcadebistro.hu). Book ahead for Bock Bistro, a lively venue that offers hearty serves of traditional dishes such as sour cherry soup (Erzsebet korut 43, 321 0340, www.bockbisztro.hu). Babel Delicate has an excellent a la carte lunch menu and also caters well for vegetarians. (Szarka utca 1, 338 2143, www.babeldelicate.hu)
By the glass
Sip Tokaj, the drop French King Louis XIV claimed was "the wine of kings and the king of wines" at the House of Hungarian Wines, a 100-metre-long cellar storing more than 450 types of wine from the 22 winemaking regions of Hungary (Szentharomsag ter 6, www.magyarborokhaza.hu). For a taste of alternative Budapest, go to a kert, a beer garden set up in the inner courtyard of an abandoned building. Known by word of mouth, most kerts are shut down after one summer season. Szimpla Kert has been open since 2001 and hosts events such as backgammon championships and film festivals (daily, Budapest Kazinczy utca 14, 352 4198, www.szimpla.hu).
EAT + DRINK
Cafe culture
Budapest is filled with atmospheric cafes. Head to Raday utca and its surrounding streets for a selection of bars and cafes patronised by the cool crowd. For something a little more traditional, head somewhere like Gerbeaud, which has been open since 1858. The landmark cafe remains one of the biggest in Europe with an ornate, gilded interior and indulgent pastries (Vorosmarty ter 7, 429 9020, www.gerbeaud.hu). Creative types can be found penning their poetry into the late hours at the restored Central Cafe in Pest (Karolyi Mihaly utca 9, 266 2110, www.centralkavehaz.hu) while romantics should settle at Litea cafe, a bookshop and cafe located in a glass pavilion in the Buda Castle district (I. Hess Andras ter 4, www.litea.hu).
Snack attack
Hungarian pastries like beigli, nut rolls or kifli make a great snack on the go. Markets are also a great place for a quick bite — goulash and dumplings are worth trying, as is langos — deep-fried dough covered in cheese or cream. At lunchtime, take a detour into the market at Hold utca, where you can grab a tasty, cheap lunch with the locals in a traditional environment. Also keep an eye out for Etkezde, cheap local diners where you sit at shared tables and eat home-style food. Vegetarians seeking respite from meat-laden Hungarian menus should try the fast-food chain Hummus Bars (Alkotmany utca and Kertesz utca 39, www.hummusbar.hu).
Top of the town
Costes is the toast of the restaurant scene after receiving Hungary's first Michelin star. The restaurant trucks in 95 per cent of its produce from Paris and has a great tasting menu (Raday utca 4, 219 0696, www.costes.hu). Arcade Bistro is a long-standing favourite with visitors and locals for its experimental fine food and garden terrace (Kiss Janos Altabornagy 38, 225 1969, www.arcadebistro.hu). Book ahead for Bock Bistro, a lively venue that offers hearty serves of traditional dishes such as sour cherry soup (Erzsebet korut 43, 321 0340, www.bockbisztro.hu). Babel Delicate has an excellent a la carte lunch menu and also caters well for vegetarians. (Szarka utca 1, 338 2143, www.babeldelicate.hu)
By the glass
Sip Tokaj, the drop French King Louis XIV claimed was "the wine of kings and the king of wines" at the House of Hungarian Wines, a 100-metre-long cellar storing more than 450 types of wine from the 22 winemaking regions of Hungary (Szentharomsag ter 6, www.magyarborokhaza.hu). For a taste of alternative Budapest, go to a kert, a beer garden set up in the inner courtyard of an abandoned building. Known by word of mouth, most kerts are shut down after one summer season. Szimpla Kert has been open since 2001 and hosts events such as backgammon championships and film festivals (daily, Budapest Kazinczy utca 14, 352 4198, www.szimpla.hu).
Hot tip
The Budapest Card includes free public transport, a free walking tour and dozens of discounts across the city. A 48-hour pass costs 6300 forints; a 72-hour pass costs 7500 forints. See www.budapest-card.com for more information.
Getting there
Qantas flies from Sydney to Budapest via London Heathrow, from $2277. 13 13 13, www.qantas.com.
Visa and currency
The Hungarian currency is the florin. ($1 = 195 forints). Commonly, prices are quoted in Euros for hotels, tours and meals ($1= €0.69).
Australians do not require a visa to enter Hungary for periods of 90 days or less.
Calling Budapest
The Hungarian country code is +36 and 1 to call Budapest. To call Budapest from abroad, add +361 to the numbers listed on this page.
More information
www.budapestinfo.hu/en, www.budapestadventure.com/en/, www.csapi.hu, www.ruinpubs.com.
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