By Kate Jordan-Moore
Earth and sea ... Pheasant Farm pate with wood-fired bread from Maggie Beer.Credit: Tony Lewis
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Pheasant Farm pate and wood-fired bread at Maggie Beer's Farm Shop
In 1978, Colin Beer won a Churchill Fellowship that took him and his bride to Europe and the US to study game-bird breeding. Returning to the Barossa, he and his wife, Maggie, opened the Farm Shop to sell his game birds and then later began selling her fabulous pate direct to the public. The shop evolved into the Pheasant Farm Restaurant, which quickly became a destination restaurant, and Maggie became one of the pioneers of Australian regional cuisine. It's come full circle, with the former restaurant now the Farm Shop again, selling the full range (and some limited-edition) Maggie Beer products and Colin's wine. One of the simple joys of a day in the Barossa is to graze on the Farm Shop's picnic fare, on the deck or lawn overlooking the dam and the Barossa ranges beyond, and the pinnacle of that fare is still the Pheasant Farm Pate.
Pheasant Farm Road, Nuriootpa, (08) 8562 4477.
The Prairie Hotel's feral mixed grill
So how does camel sausage, goat chop, kangaroo fillet and a wallaby shashlick on mashed potato with gravy become a defining dish? Partly because it's the signature dish of a singular pub and partly because it's just plain delicious. The Prairie Hotel at Parachilna in the Flinders Ranges is a rare thing - an international tourism attraction and a local favourite. No cliches, no gimmicks, just the savvy of the Fargher family and their staff welcoming everyone from local ringers to Hollywood stars for nigh on 20 years. Kangaroo, emu, yabbie, quandongs, native limes and bush tomatoes are fresh ingredients served here. Though perhaps feral in name, this mixed grill is from accredited sources, so keep the "see 'em, eat 'em" lines for the postcards.
Corner High Street and West Terrace, Parachilna, (08) 8648 4844.
Just-caught squid at the Star of Greece Cafe
It's a former kiosk, perched on a rugged clifftop, overlooking the beautiful waters of Gulf St Vincent and a long stretch of uncrowded beach. The menu features plenty of Fleurieu Peninsula produce but it's the squid that deserves its own Facebook page. It's always presented simply because the squid has been caught by a local fisherman and is so fresh it needs nothing more than appetite. Like a lot of good things in South Australia's restaurants and cafes, its source is close to the kitchen and often by a direct path from farmer (or fisherman) to chef.
1 The Esplanade, Port Willunga, (08) 8557 7420, see starofgreececafe.com.au.
Celsius vegetable patch
The latest fine-diner in Adelaide presents what must be the prettiest dish in the city. Mostly from Celsius's own kitchen-garden, these botanical beauties - raw and pickled vegetables, flowers and leaves - are not just selected for their looks. Each is an exemplar of flavour and complements the others. The pickles are beautifully balanced and the "soil" adds some deep notes. The snails are gathered by chef Ayhan Erkoc and his kitchen staff from the parklands that surround the inner city, making this dish not just a gastronomic pleasure but an indicator of excellent urban planning. Here's a city where you can forage in the 700 hectares of park on its doorstep. The same parks that are home to century-old olive orchards, a working vineyard, bush-tucker trails and the beautiful Museum of Economic Botany.
95 Gouger Street, Adelaide, (08) 8231 6023.
King George whiting at Fish
Whiting in batter made with Coopers Sparkling Ale served beside the water at Penneshaw is one of Kangaroo Island's memorable experiences. Chef and caterer Sue Pearson opens Fish takeaway from October to April and uses the best produce she can. Not just the fish but also the flour, salt flakes and oil (later turned into biodiesel). King George whiting from these cool waters is sweet and has a soft and delicate texture. Coopers Sparkling Ale is the favourite local brew. Secondary fermentation in the bottle means there's a residue of yeast cells (hence the famous "Cloudy but fine" ads) and chefs and cooks swear these are the secret to the perfect batter.
North Terrace, Penneshaw, Kangaroo Island, (08) 8553 7406.
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