Five of the best cheeses

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Limestone Coast Cheese Company Callendale vintage cheddar

Matt Allsopp is a cheddar nut: you'd have to be, to take on this difficult-to-get-right style in small batches. But it's worth it. Dense and golden with a pleasing flake, this smart cheddar has been cloth-wrapped so it can breathe during its 18-month maturation and develop complex flavours.

Roach Road, Lucindale, (08) 8766 2442.

Woodside Cheesewrights vigneron

Kris Lloyd created this velvety number to showcase the vine leaves and wines from Coriole Vineyard, the Lloyd family's winery. The young goat's milk cheeses are washed in Coriole chardonnay and then wrapped and aged in vine leaves. When ripe, they are creamy, earthy and oozy, with the pearly paleness of good goat's milk.

Heritage Park, 22 Henry Street, Woodside, (08) 8389 7877, see woodsidecheese.com.au.

Udder Delights goat's curd

The lovely balance of flavours in this curd is probably the clue to its enormous popularity. It's creamy yet light and has a tangy refreshing finish. And this makes it most versatile: from lifting roast beetroot to serving with figs, prosciutto, honey and walnuts.

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91a Main Road, Hahndorf, (08) 8388 1588, see udderdelights.com.au.

Ballycroft Artisan Cheese annulet

This tiny Barossan producer takes milk from one herd so close to home that it's less than two hours from udder to vat. The annulet curds are "washed" with water and whey to create a sweeter taste, before being pressed. The cheeses are then regularly washed with brine to encourage a rind of natural moulds and aged for a minimum of three months.

For stockists, see ballycroft.com.

Island Pure haloumi

The mint leaves in the fold are one sign this haloumi made on Kangaroo Island is closer to its Cypriot namesake that most other Australian versions. The other is that it is made with pure sheep's milk, giving it a higher melting point, which is crucial for successful cooking. And fresh, it works beautifully with ripe apricots.

Island Pure Sheep Dairy and Cheese Factory, Gum Creek Road, Cygnet River, (08) 8553 9110.

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