Flight of Fancy podcast: Basque Country is the world's best destination for people who love to eat

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Flight of Fancy podcast: Basque Country is the world's best destination for people who love to eat

By Ben Groundwater
Updated
San Sebastian, Basque Country.

San Sebastian, Basque Country. Credit: iStock

You're doing pintxos all wrong.

You've probably heard, by now, about the Basque style of tapas served in the far north of Spain. You know about these small bites, these delectable snacks that you devour as part of a moveable feast, as you roam from bar to bar washing each pintxo down with cheap drinks.

Except, that's not the way you're supposed to do it. Or at least that's not how the locals do it in places like San Sebastian and Bilbao. Basque pintxos aren't supposed to be consumed on night-long crawls, but in small quantities before sitting down to a main meal.

"Pintxos for locals are something that you have with a drink before you go for a meal," explains Bella Bowring, co-owner of Gerald's Bar San Sebastian, speaking on this week's Basque-themed episode of Flight of Fancy, the Traveller podcast. "It's now become a different thing with people roaming around the pintxos bars and having one thing in each bar, and that being the way they have dinner.

"For locals it's a way to have a snack and a drink with your friends before you sit down to a proper meal. But the good thing about pintxos is it's an open-minded concept. It's also a nice way to eat, this new style, it feels like a quite sociable and lovely way to have a meal."

And what a meal. The Basque Country of northern Spain might just be the world's best destination for people who love to eat. The standard of cuisine here is incredibly high, from the cheapest pintxos bars to the most expensive fine-diners, from anonymous neighbourhood eateries to the world-famous likes of Asador Etxebarri and Elkano.

Sydney-based chef Lennox Hastie, who helms the wood-fired restaurant Firedoor and the soon-to-be-opened pintxos bar Gilda's, spent his formative years in the Basque Country, and explains that the secret to the success of the local cuisine is simple.

"It's that focus on just a small palette of really high-quality ingredients," Hastie tells Flight of Fancy. "And that ability to eat extremely well at every single level. You rarely see that in any city, where what you eat at a Michelin-starred restaurant has the same passion and drive going into it as the food in the bars."

It's fair to say that almost any restaurant around the world right now that is suddenly cooking with fire has been influenced by Etxebarri, the Basque grill, or "asador", that's currently ranked No.6 on the World's 50 Best restaurants list. Hastie's years working in the Etxebarri kitchen side-by-side with chef and owner Bitor Arguinzoniz changed his life and his idea of food forever.

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"It was such a creative period and such a seminal experience for me as a chef," says Hastie. "The restaurant was in that transitional period between traditional a la carte style, and stripping it back to one [tasting] menu. And we decided to find a way to grill everything. The grill basically grew from this small galley kitchen to... we literally knocked down walls to bring the vision to life, to cook with no gas or electricity.

"It's a very fine line when it comes to cooking with fire, but the result when you get it right is amazing. Any fish, shellfish, meat, it just brings it to life."

This region, clearly, is a special place, with special food. In fact, there's just one place in the Basque Country where the food might not be entirely up to scratch, and it's not the one you will be expecting. It's one of the area's main tourist drawcards: the Old Town in San Sebastian.

"The locals tend not to go there anymore," explains Bowring. "There's been a lot of new places opening up that are catering specifically to tourists, and not paying as much attention to the finer details of where their produce comes from, as some of the more traditional places do. Which I guess is just a natural progression. Those traditional places aren't going to carry on forever. But it's still a lovely, fun way to have a meal."

To find out where you should eat in the Basque Country – as well as what else to see and do in this amazing destination – tune in to this week's episode of Flight of Fancy.

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