Food file: Rio De Janeiro

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This was published 13 years ago

Food file: Rio De Janeiro

Get your taste buds tingling with the Latin flavours of this iconic city, writes Ute Junker.

Favourite flavours

Brazilians love nothing more than feijoada, a meaty stew served with rice and a bowl of beans. It's the country's national dish and is more hearty than haute cuisine. Fortunately, Brazil's regional cuisines offer plenty of mouth-watering alternatives and they're all available in Rio. Top of the list is Bahian cuisine, generally agreed to be the country's most delicious, heavy on seafood and tangy African spices. Moqueca, a slow-cooked seafood stew, is a knockout. Also popular is Amazonian fare, which features exotic ingredients such as tambaqui, a giant river fish that can weigh up to 30 kilograms.

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The caipirinha cocktail may be Brazil's best-known beverage but the most popular drink on the streets of Rio is suco, or juice. You'll find juice bars on almost every corner, offering a technicolour array of options such as guava and papaya, as well as more obscure fruits such as sweetsop and acerola. Try an acai shake, made with an Amazonian berry that's packed with antioxidants.

Top tables

Brazilians love dining outdoors, especially at lunch, and one of Rio's prettiest lunch venues is Restaurante Aprazivel in Santa Teresa. A series of terraces nestled amid shady trees are positioned to catch the stunning views across Rio's beautiful bay, while the menu offers seafood dishes from the north-east of Brazil. (62 Rua Aprazivel, Santa Teresa; +55 21 2508 9174.)

For a more idiosyncratic experience, try Bar de Graca, where the decor is heavy on religious kitsch and kooky lighting. The design is fun but the food is serious, with delicious Bahian cuisine along with tastes from Italy and Japan. (780 Rua Pacheco Leao; +55 21 2249 5484.) For a taste of Brazil's grand colonial past, take in afternoon tea at Confeitaria Colombo, a beautiful two-storey cafe in the centre of town. For the price of a cup of coffee you can absorb its opulent interiors - perhaps the best bargain in town. (32 Rua Goncalves Dias, Centro; +55 21 2232 2300.)

Budget bite

There's nothing swish about Nova Capela. This 100-year-old bar has 1970s decor and slightly crumpled-looking waiters but makes up for it with hearty Brazilian comfort food at bargain prices. (96 Avenida Mem de Sa, Lapa; +55 21 2252 6228.)

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For a special night, visit Natacha Fink's Espirito Santa in Santa Teresa, which offers the best Amazonian food in town. Specialties include fish such as namorado or matrincha and desserts made from exotic fruit such as the yellow bacuri which, confusingly, tastes surprisingly like chocolate. (264 Rua Almirante Alexandrino, Santa Teresa; +55 21 2508 7095.)

Locals love

Bolinho de bacalhau, or salt cod balls. The Portuguese who settled Brazil were addicted to these delicacies, importing the cod all the way from Europe, and the fried balls are still a favourite today. You'll find this snack in most restaurants and on sale at street vendors.

Don't leave without trying

Brazilian barbecue, or churrascaria. It's heaven for carnivores, with waiters brandishing serious-looking knives offering you a succession of succulent meats on massive skewers. The Porcao chain offers superb food with bargain all-you-can-eat prices. Try the Ipanema branch. (218 Rua Barao da Torre, +55 21 3202 9150.) When you've had enough, let the waiters know by flipping your coaster from the green side to the red side.

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