For a picnic, this place rocks

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This was published 15 years ago

For a picnic, this place rocks

Breathtaking ... a spectacular view of Mt Macedon.

Breathtaking ... a spectacular view of Mt Macedon.

Haunting and familiar panpipe music drifted out from behind a lace curtain as we unlocked the door to Hanging Rock Cottage. Just 300 metres away, afternoon sun warmed the north face of a rock that is part of Australia's literary history. We half expected to see a young John Jarratt leap on to one of the boulders, waving a felt hat.

The annual outdoor screening of the movie , which helped launch Jarratt's career, is due to be held at Hanging Rock Reserve on Saturday, February 14. Each year it's screened on the Saturday nearest Valentine's Day when, according to Joan Lindsay's classic novel and the Peter Weir-directed 1975 film, three schoolgirls and a teacher disappeared.

We'd made the movie compulsory family viewing before starting our driving holiday through country Victoria. It predates our two children by about 20 years and we'd wanted to spook them into some appreciation of the mystery story before exploring its setting.

There were practical reasons for making our first overnight stop at a bed-and-breakfast cottage within range of Hanging Rock Reserve. It's an easy drive up the Calder Highway from Tullamarine Airport. Even at a rubbernecked-tourist pace and with a stop to stock up on groceries in Sunbury ("Home of the Ashes"), we were there in less than an hour.

With a leggy pre-teen and teenager in the back of a compact hire car, we were all craving space by the time we turned into the drive.

Hanging Rock Cottage stands on 2.4 hectares and is adjacent to the home of hosts Christopher and Rhonda Orton. Their friendly labrador, Tara, accompanied us on a walk over mown grass, past a pair of heritage-listed 150-year-old oaks to Five Mile Creek, which runs along the lower boundary. With a stunning view of Mt Macedon in the distance and rosellas injecting flashes of colour and chatter into the late afternoon, spirits soon picked up.

The Orton's attention to detail inside the pretty timber-and-iron cottage emphasised the welcoming feel - sofa beds had been made up for the children, candlelight flickered by a saucer of chocolates and the fridge and pantry were stocked with all we'd ever need for a rock-climber's breakfast.

Next morning we drove the few minutes along South Rock Road to the main entrance of Hanging Rock Reserve, which attracts 80,000 visitors a year.

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Our first stop was the discovery centre where we learned that the rock, which stands 105 metres above the surrounding plain, was formed six million years ago when a particularly stiff type of lava squeezed through a narrow vent in the Earth's crust. Called solvsbergite for its high soda content, the only other places it's found are in Norway and Sweden.

Weathering and erosion have created the unusual rock formations and "faces" we saw as we started the 1800-metre return walk along the track to the summit. With much of the track now sealed, the climb in fine weather was easy-to-moderate for the reasonably fit. Caution should be exercised in poor conditions, however - two days later we met someone who'd broken their leg attempting the same climb some years ago.

On a bright spring morning names such as Vampire Cliff, Black Hole of Calcutta and Berry's Head failed to evoke so much as a shiver, even against a backdrop of bird calls strangely similar to pan flutes.

Stunning views across farmland to Mt Macedon and north to the Cobaw Ranges provided ample opportunities to stop and catch our breath.

Hanging Rock Reserve ranger Guido Bigolin's favourite view is from an east-facing spot near Lover's Leap, a short walk from where the path forks at The Saddle.

"The view opens up your heart and that is part of the Rock's appeal," said Guido, who in April will notch up 27 years as ranger. Such is his passion for the place he often goes "for a wander" at the Rock on his days off.

He said many visitors chose to believe the mystery posed by Lindsay's novel, which still sells steadily 42 years after it was first published.

Near Morgan's Lookout, named after the bushranger Mad Dan Morgan who is believed to have taken refuge at the Rock, we looked down to the cottage where we'd spent the night.

Then it was time to head back, via stairs under one of the many hanging rocks, to the picnic area, which includes tennis courts, playing fields and a lake stocked with fish. The lake is skirted by a 1400-metre racecourse where the annual New Year's Day and Australia Day picnic races attract crowds of up to 6000 people.

Mysteries aside, we left the area convinced that on a good day, Hanging Rock is a great place for a picnic.

TRIP NOTES


Hanging Rock is 80 kilometres north of Melbourne, east of Woodend, off the A79 Calder Highway.


Hanging Rock Cottage, 30 Maxted Drive, Hanging Rock, phone (03) 5427 0581, see hangingrockcottage.com.au. Rooms cost $150 a night, including breakfast.


Entry to Hanging Rock Reserve, open daily 8am to 6pm, is $10 a car. See hangingrock.info.

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