On the go ... the Edwardian carriage is a highlight of the Seymour Railway Heritage Centre.
Patricia Maunder goes on and off the rails in a region of wine, riding trails and military history.
Heading north on the Hume Freeway, I'm out of Melbourne and into the countryside within an hour. The sun's shining, the grass is green and the mountains, albeit modest, look majestic. The Goulburn Valley is ticking lots of boxes.
Surrounded by the Murray River, Yarra Valley, Goldfields and High Country, it probably doesn't get the love it deserves from tourists - especially at this time of lush paddocks and bushland, blossoming orchards, budding vines and rushing rivers. Heritage is among the Goulburn Valley's underappreciated charms, associated as it is with some of Victoria's earliest European settlement (Kilmore is the state's oldest inland town), the gold rush and the Kelly gang.
First stop is Hume and Hovell cricket ground in Strath Creek (humeandhovell.com.au), named for the explorers who passed through in the 1820s. The white picket fence, turf wickets and English garden outside the pavilion suggest they may have set the place up but it was established less than 20 years ago. Inspired by tradition and packed with cricket memorabilia, it's an idyllic spot for a light lunch, even when the mountain backdrop's beauty isn't enhanced by the sound of bat on ball.
The nearby Kerrisdale Mountain Railway (kerrisdalemtnrailway.com.au) is no Puffing Billy, as the modest mid-20th-century diesel train takes a relatively short route. But there's a chance of seeing kangaroos bounce across the track and the hilltop view is impressive.
This attraction isn't only about trains but also about engineering heritage, especially in the superbly maintained steam museum. The 19th-century Kerrisdale station ticket office has been relocated here and transformed into a secluded bed and breakfast.
Seymour Railway Heritage Centre (srhc.org.au) has a more serious trainspotting experience. Tours take in highlights among dozens of engines and carriages, many in the process of being repaired and refurbished. The most impressive include an opulent Edwardian state carriage, yet even those made for the masses offer intriguing insights into rail travel's past.
Cheviot Tunnel (about eight kilometres west of Yea, on Cheviot Road) is also worth a look - especially as part of a walk, cycle or horse ride along the Goulburn River High Country Rail Trail from Tallarook to Mansfield.
Lined with thousands of handmade bricks, this 1880s tunnel is in perfect condition, making it a triumphant arch for the humble bushwalker.
While other regions have become more popular with wine lovers, this is Victorian viticulture's birthplace, as Tahbilk Winery's venerable buildings and original 1860 vines bear testament (tahbilk.com.au).
Explore the brick, stone and timber structures full of antique equipment, then sample the wares among hundreds of awards, old and new.
Nearby Mitchelton winery (mitchelton.com.au) hasn't as much history but its late-1960s buildings represent Australia's first forays into wine tourism. While tasting the cellar-door offerings, admiring the art gallery, touring the state-of-the art facilities, or enjoying lunch in the restaurant, it's difficult to imagine that such wine tourism staples were non-existent in Australia 40 years ago.
The vineyard's riverside restaurant is among the region's best - or keep it simple on the lawns outside with local cheeses and a bottle of shiraz.
Another sure bet for sophisticated palates is The Tea Rooms at Yarck (6585 Maroondah Highway), a whitewashed old timber structure serving up bellissima rustic Italian cuisine made from fresh seasonal produce.
The valley's many heritage pubs are also great places to tuck in and some offer accommodation, too. Other historical places to lay your head include Seymour's Bank on the Goulburn (bankonthegoulburn.com.au), a vast 1870 bank refurbished with contemporary comforts and decor, or the more homey Brecon House B&B (bedandbrecon.com), one of Murchison's oldest buildings with vintage armchairs beside the wood heater.
For a break from human history, get an invigorating dose of natural history at King Parrot Valley Retreat at Strath Creek (kingparrotvalleychalets.com.au). I fall asleep to croaking frogs and wake to birdsong in a big log "chalet" nestled among informal native gardens. Military history is another feature of the valley, where Australians have trained for battle as far back as the Boer War.
In addition to Puckapunyal's well-established Army Tank Museum (armytankmuseum.com.au) and Australian Light Horse Memorial Park (Goulburn Valley Highway, Seymour) there is the Vietnam Veterans' Commemorative Walk (High Street, Seymour).
The first stage of this informative, peaceful memorial opened in March and centres on a replica of Luscombe Bowl, where Australasian troops were entertained in Vietnam.
Tatura Irrigation and Wartime Camps Museum (taturamuseum.org.au) houses a collection of items associated with the region's seven World War II internment camps, where thousands of prisoners of war were housed. Using the limited materials at hand, inmates made practical tools and home comforts including bicycle-spoke knitting needles and lovingly crafted toys.
Another museum worth seeing is run by the the Historical Society of Mooroopna (hsm.org.au). The extensive section dedicated to medicine is well presented and features items from the former Mooroopna hospital, including early blood-transfusion equipment. Shepparton Heritage Centre Museum (heritageshepparton.com.au) offers an interesting snapshot of local history, from the demolished post office tower's clock to a 1929 fire engine.
Patricia Maunder was a guest of Goulburn River Valley Tourism. For information, see goulburnrivervalley.com.au.
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