This was published 1 year ago
Greece travel guide and things to do on the mainland: Beyond the islands
By Elise Morton
No Athens sojourn would be complete without seeing the Parthenon.Credit: iStock
When travellers dream of Greece, they tend to immediately think of islands. Whitewashed houses, vibrant bougainvillaea, crystal waters, fresh seafood.
It's an entirely understandable reaction but the much overlooked mainland is burgeoning with history, beauty and liveliness, from remarkable ruins to ancient streets buzzing with contemporary cafe society
Beyond the main cities of Athens and Thessaloniki, you'll still find idyllic beaches such as those of Halkidiki, Pelion and the Peloponnese. With mainland alternatives like these, the islands can wait. Here are just some of the wonders of mainland Greece and the best ways to experience them.
VISIT THE ENCHANTING LAKE CITY OF IOANNINA
The capital of the northern Epirus region, Ioannina (also known as Yannena) sits on the shore of Lake Pamvotis, surrounded by mountains. After sipping a Greek coffee at one of the lakeside cafes, explore the fortified Byzantine kastro, still inhabited today and featuring the Ottoman Fethiye Mosque, before taking a boat trip out to Ioannina island and stopping by the Ali Pasha and Revolutionary Period Museum (museumalipasha.gr). For a double dose of lakeside living, make an additional stop in the city of Kastoria.
MAKE IT HAPPEN
Stays at the stylish Naiades Hotel (naiadeshotel.gr) inside the Ioannina kastro start at $113 for a double room, including breakfast. Buses run every day from Athens and Thessaloniki to Ioannina and Kastoria, with routes between the two running twice weekly (ktelioannina.gr). Tickets start at $30.
TAKE IN THE VENETIAN ARCHITECTURE OF GREECE
From the 12th to 18th centuries, the Venetians controlled large swathes of Europe, including parts of Greece. Though the maritime empire is long gone, its architectural legacy remains. Highlights include the Palamidi, the largest Venetian fortress on the Greek mainland (in Nafplio, on the Peloponnese); Methoni Castle, also on the Peloponnese; the mansions of Corfu Town; the port in Chania and fortress of Rethymno, both on Crete; and extensive ruins in Zakynthos and Kefalonia.
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Bunnik Tours' Greece in Depth (bunniktours.com.au) itinerary includes the Palamidi as well as the Venetian Castle of Nafpaktos. The 22-day trip costs from $10,895.
DISCOVER THE CHOCOLATE BOX VILLAGES OF ZAGOROHORIA
. Credit: iStock
Greece isn't just a summer destination. For a spring or autumn dose of nature, or a wintertime wander through snow-dusted villages, head to northern Greece's Zagorohoria region. Set in the dramatic Pindos mountains, Zagorohoria is known for its 46 picturesque villages, much-photographed stone bridges, the breathtaking Vikos gorge (the world's second deepest) and the Papingo rock pools.
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The nearest airport is Preveza and British Airways (britishairways.com) flies direct there from Heathrow (it also flies direct to Athens and Thessaloniki). There are car hire options at the airport. Airbnb lists many character-filled stays in the region.
IMMERSE YOURSELF IN THE ATHENS ART SCENE
With a captivating mix of independent contemporary art spaces and established galleries, the Athens art world is as diverse as it is dynamic. Big names include the Basil and Elise Goulandris Foundation (goulandris.gr), housed in a 1920s neoclassical mansion; the National Gallery (nationalgallery.gr) devoted to Greek and European art from the 14th to 20th centuries; and the Museum of Cycladic Art (cycladic.gr). Fans of the modern should make a beeline for the National Museum of Contemporary Art (emst.gr) and Onassis Stegi (onassis.org), which also hosts theatre, dance and music, in addition to the Zoumboulakis Gallery (zoumboulakis.gr) and Tavros (tavros.space). Some of the city's best street art can be found in Gazi, Exarchia, Metaxourgeio and Psirri.
MAKE IT HAPPEN
A three-hour street art tour with Alternative Athens (alternativeathens.com) starts at $73 a person, running daily at 10 am.
EXPLORE THE MONASTERIES OF METEORA
Credit: iStock
With its name derived from the Ancient Greek meteoros, meaning "in the air", Meteora pretty much does what it says on the tin: this group of 24 monasteries (six of them still functioning) are perched atop towering stone pillars, some 400 metres above the Peneas Valley. A must-visit for history and geology enthusiasts, the UNESCO site also offers excellent hiking. Set in the Thessaly region of central Greece, it's easy to visit on a day-trip from Athens or Thessaloniki, while the nearby town of Kalambaka is a prime overnight spot for anyone wanting to explore a little longer.
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A one-day tour of Meteora with Meteora Thrones (meteora.com) from Athens costs $109, with a two-day tour including accommodation in Kalambaka from $252 and a four-hour Meteora sunset experience $33. Departures are also available from Thessaloniki.
GET A TASTE OF THESSALONIKI'S UNIQUE CUISINE
Credit: iStock
UNESCO designated Thessaloniki as Greece's first city of gastronomy in November 2021, further solidifying its reputation as Greece's de facto food capital. Thessaloniki's culinary offering reflects its history as an important trading port within many empires, as well as the diverse communities that have called the city home: think spiced soutzoukakia meatballs, sesame-topped koulouria bread rings and syrupy trigona pastries.
MAKE IT HAPPEN
Intrepid Travel's eight-day Mainland Greece Discovery tour offers a day and a half and two nights in Thessaloniki with all free time but the option of joining local tours (intrepidtravel.com). From $2295 a person, flights not included.
SEE A PLAY IN AN ANCIENT ATHENS AMPHITHEATRE
Credit: iStock
When it comes to scenic surroundings for a night at the theatre or an open-air concert, the Odeon of Herodes Atticus on the southern slopes of the Acropolis is hard to beat. Completed in AD 161 and renovated in 1950, the Roman amphitheatre seats about 4500 and has played host to the likes of Maria Callas and Frank Sinatra. Today, audiences can soak up the venue's history while taking in an ancient Greek tragedy, ballet or orchestra performance.
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The Odeon of Herodes Atticus is a key venue for the annual Athens and Epidaurus Festival (aefestival.gr), with tickets starting from $45 and events running from May to October. Nearby Herodion Hotel (herodian.gr) offers double rooms from $210 a night.
WATCH THE SUNSET OVER THE ACROPOLIS
Credit: Alamy
Touristy? Perhaps. But no Athens sojourn would be complete without seeing the Parthenon bathed in morning light or evening pink hues. Combine panoramic vistas with a mini-hike by climbing Lycabettus, Philopappos or Strefi Hill. All have decent paths and are popular spots from which to admire the jewel in the city's crown (preferably with a fashionable freddo espresso in hand). If you prefer your views to be accompanied by something slightly stronger, head to the terraces at Skyfall Restaurant and Bar (skyfallbar.gr) or Couleur Locale (couleurlocaleathens.com).
MAKE IT HAPPEN
Rooms at the King George Hotel (marriott.com) with spectacular views of the Acropolis from its pool and some rooms, start at $610 a night for a double.
HIT THE SKI AND SNOWBOARD SLOPES
Visiting Greece in winter? Combine your cultural exploration with a ski or snowboarding session, with the snow season running from December to March. Probably Greece's most popular, Parnassos Ski Resort, is only two hours from Athens in the Central Greece region, meaning you could be admiring the Acropolis in the morning and shredding the slopes by lunchtime. To ski Greece's most famous mountain, head to the Elatochori Ski Centre on the northern slopes of Mount Olympus, or try your hand at alpine cross-country skiing in Metsovo.
MAKE IT HAPPEN
Double rooms at Ellinon Thea – Aracova (ellinonthea.com) near Parnassos start at $105 for two people, including breakfast.
AWAKEN YOUR INNER ARCHAEOLOGIST
Credit: Alamy
It's no secret that Greece is home to remarkable ruins that bring the ancient world to life. Beyond the Acropolis, from Athens it is relatively easy to visit the Sanctuary of Apollo at Delphi, the Temple of Poseidon at Sounion or the Sanctuary of Asclepius at Epidaurus, among many others. In Thessaloniki, you can't miss the Roman Arch of Galerius, Rotunda and Agora, while Ancient Philippi is an ideal day trip. The Minoan Palace at Knossos in Crete will add some welcome historical flavour to any Cretan beach holiday, with the same said for Olympia in the western Peloponnese.
MAKE IT HAPPEN
An eight-day Best of Greece tour with Trafalgar (trafalgar.com) costs from $2250 (not including flights), visiting Athens, Delphi, Olympia, Mycenae, Corinth and more.
STEP BACK INTO THE OTTOMAN ERA
Though Ottoman-era houses can be found in Athens's Plaka neighbourhood, traces of Ottoman rule are more pronounced in Thessaloniki, once known as "the Sultan's Rose". Here you'll find the Hamza Bey, Alaca Imaret and Yeni mosques, while the Aigli Geni and Bey hamams have been converted from bathhouses to one of the city's most happening party venues and a chic cafe, respectively. To delve deeper into the Ottoman legacy in northern Greece, head to Veria.
MAKE IT HAPPEN
A day-tour of Thessaloniki's Ottoman architecture with Greek Transfer Services (greektransferservices.com) starts at $30 a person.
FIVE WAY TO DO GREECE LIKE A LOCAL
LOOK BEYOND ATHENS
Though there's nothing wrong with walking a well-travelled path, you'll reap the rewards exploring Greece beyond the well-known tourist hotspots – and your bank balance will likely thank you.
EAT DINNER LATER
Don't sweat it. Swap your 7.30pm dinner time for 9pm or later. In summer, you'll be glad to enjoy the vibrant flavours of Greek cuisine in the cooler evening temperatures.
VISIT OUTDOOR ATTRACTIONS EARLIER
The Greeks, like all Mediterraneans, avoid the outdoors in the middle of the day in summer. Go fresh-air sightseeing in the morning and hit up nice cool museums and galleries when the sun is high. A quick siesta, and the balmy evening is yours – and the locals' – for the taking.
GO OFF SEASON
Though Greece is a prime summer destination, visiting off season is an opportunity to discover another side to the country (not to mention exploring archaeological sites in less sweltering temperatures). Why not take in the autumn colours of Zagorohoria, or the spring flowers of Halkidiki?
DRINK ICED COFFEE
Sitting down to enjoy a brew is not only a pick-me-up, but a social custom. The Greeks invented iced coffee. Order a freddo, made from ice, fresh espresso and frothed milk, and you'll fit right in.
IF YOU REALLY WANT A GREEK ISLAND OR FIVE ... Swim in some of Europe's clearest waters
With more than 13,000 kilometres of coastline, Greece is not lacking when it comes to beaches. Big-hitters include the silky pink sands of Crete's Elafonisi Beach, the dramatic landscape of Navagio Beach (also known as Shipwreck Beach) in Zakynthos, and Kefalonia's Myrtos Beach, while families will love the shallow, gentle waters of golden Koukounaries in Skiathos (perfect for paddling). If you're looking for high-octane beach action, Mikri Vigla on Naxos is paradise for windsurfers.
BIKE ON KOS, GREECE'S "CYCLING ISLAND"
Prefer to explore on two wheels? Head to Kos, which is making a name for itself as Greece's cycling island. The abundance of relatively flat terrain on this Dodecanese island makes it an appealing option for anyone embarking on their first cycling holiday, while more challenging routes on dirt and mountain roads will help confident cyclists feel they've earned their feta. As well as the popular beaches of Tigaki and Marmari, even Kos Town can be conquered by bike – a 13-kilometre cycle lane stretches along the waterfront.
GET READY TO PARTY
It's impossible to write a list of the best Greek party spots without mentioning Mykonos, where chic nightlife options include chilled-out Galleraki, prime sundowner spot BAO and local institution Skandinavian Bar. Other islands known for their party scene include Corfu and Ios. Stay a short stroll away from the bars of Mykonos town at Semeli Hotel (semelihotel.gr)
HIKE CRETE'S SAMARIA GORGE
Beyond archaeological wonders and beaches, Crete is hiker heaven. Don your walking boots and hit the trail leading through the Samaria Gorge, which cuts through the rugged White Mountains of Crete and is one of the longest gorges in Europe. Get those all-important snaps at the viewing platform, looking out for kri kri goats and griffon vultures, before descending into the 16-kilometre-long gorge.
DIVE AN ANCIENT SHIPWRECK AND MEET MONK SEALS
Just off the island of Alonissos lies Greece's first underwater museum – a shipwreck believed to date from the fifth century BC. For a long time only open to archaeologists and those with special permission, the site now welcomes recreational divers to discover the ill-fated transport ship and its cargo, which included up to 4000 wine amphorae (ceramic vats for transporting wine). The underwater museum is set within the National Marine Park of Alonissos and Northern Sporades, home to the Mediterranean monk seal.
SIP THE FINEST GREEK WINES
Greece hasn't always been a hotspot for wine connoisseurs, with the very notion of retsina (white wine infused with pine resin) enough to keep many away. In recent years, however, Greece has begun to make a name for itself as a wine destination, with much vaunted grape varieties such as the white Malagousia and Assyrtiko, and red Xinomavro, Mavroudi and Agiorgitiko proving a draw for oenophiles. Top vineyards to visit include Domaine Sigalas and Venetsanos in Santorini, Moiratis in Paros, Lyrarakis in Crete, and Mykonos Vioma Organic Farm and Vineyard.
Elise Morton is a UK-based travel writer and editor. See visitgreece.gr
- The Telegraph, London
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