An expedition cruise is the only viable way to visit the remote Arctic, but the adventure no longer means frostbite and a diet of seal blubber.
The arctic is like nothing you ever expected.
White wilderness, wildlife, Inuit culture and North America's only viking settlements are among the highlights of a cruise from Greenland to the Canadian Arctic.
It's the world's largest island (that isn't also a continent) and the least-populated country on Earth.
Greenland has more boats per capita than any other country, and there is no better way to see this breathtaking country than on a cruise.
Stripping off and jumping in: it takes courage to do the polar plunge.
If you want to see it in all its glory, you need to go now - before it's too late.
As the ice melts in the Arctic, new bitter-sweet frontiers for travel emerge, writes David McGonigal.