Guide at a glance: Armidale

Australia's highest city celebrates culture, nature and hairy men, writes Caroline Gladstone.

Why go?

Armidale is a gracious city on the New England Tableland, home to wealthy fine-merino wool farmers, heritage buildings and within striking distance of the majestic Waterfall Way - a trail of seven national parks (three are UNESCO World Heritage listed), gorges and numerous waterfalls. Visitors love the city's "four seasons", especially when ablaze with autumn colours.

What it's known for

Australia's highest city (1000 metres) is a cultural and educational hub housing the University of New England, the first university to be established outside a capital city, and traditional independent schools dating back more than 100 years. A great introduction to the city is the free heritage tour run by the visitors' centre daily at 10am, corner Marsh and Dumaresq streets, (02) 6770 3888. It visits sites including Hanna's Department Store, the cathedrals, the prestigious Armidale School, the Aboriginal Cultural Centre and Keeping Place, the Railway Station Museum and the courthouse. Art lovers will enjoy the New England Regional Art Museum (NERAM), which has more than 5000 works, including two of the most extensive Australian collections - those of Howard Hinton and Chandler Coventry.

What you didn't know

Armidale's main drag, Beardy Street, takes its name from two settlers who sported flowing beards. Every November Glen Innes, 95 kilometres to the north, holds the Land of the Beardies Festival in honour of the two hairy men - John Duval and William Chandler - who preferred a solitary existence. Those who also hanker for isolation should take the Green Gully Track, a four-day walking trail venturing deep into the national park with the added bonus of guaranteed hut accommodation along the way. Built by NSW National Parks for the fit hiker, the four-day/five-night walk is a snip at $120 a person.

Don't miss

National parks, particularly Oxley Wild Rivers, 30 minutes from the city and containing the spectacular Wollomombi Falls, the highest in the state, as well as Dangars Gorge. Further afield is the World Heritage New England National Park, whose standout attraction is Point Lookout. Another gem is Cathedral Rock National Park, dotted with huge boulders and sculpted granite tors, while Gara Gorge, 16 kilometres from town, has beautiful swimming holes.