The world’s most active volcano: Want to see Hawaii's steamy side?

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This was published 7 years ago

The world’s most active volcano: Want to see Hawaii's steamy side?

By Steve Meacham
Updated
Not all sun and surf: There's another side to Hawaii worth exploring.

Not all sun and surf: There's another side to Hawaii worth exploring.Credit: Kirk Lee Aede/HTA

"Our home is just a few miles from Lava Zone 2," says Jill Grotkin. "That's the second most risky of the nine official Lava Flow Hazard Zones designated for Hawaii by the US Geological Survey. You can imagine what an impact that has on our home insurance."

In 2012, Jill and her husband Josh – a former policeman – set up Mauka Makai Adventures, their boutique tour company on Hawaii's Big Island (now officially known as the Island of Hawaii, though most locals still call it the Big Island).

Both were born and educated here. And though they run half a dozen different itineraries, most visitors fly in to see one thing.

Volcanoes have created the Hawaiian Island chain. Klauea and Mauna Loa are two of the world's most active volcanoes.

Volcanoes have created the Hawaiian Island chain. Klauea and Mauna Loa are two of the world's most active volcanoes.Credit: Getty Images

Volcanoes – preferably alive and spewing molten, red, steaming lava into the air and onto the earth. And, yes, that still happens.

As Jill points out soon after picking us up from Kona airport, in October 2014 the residents of Pahoa prepared to evacuate. A 1200 degree river of molten rock was spewing towards the town from Kilauea – the most active volcano in the world and the Big Island's biggest tourism drawcard.

Despite all our 21st century technology, there was nothing puny humans could do to stop this raw display of nature. It covered a half marathon – 21 kms – in just three months.

Lava flow from Kilauea volcano on the Big Island.

Lava flow from Kilauea volcano on the Big Island.

Ultimately, disaster was avoided when Kilauea's lava diverted of its own accord.

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And now, Jill says as we are safely buckled into her people mover, let's get as close to Kilauea's lava as we can.

We hadn't originally planned to take a tour – boutique or not – during the 12 hours we had allotted to the Big Island.

People walking among flowing lava.

People walking among flowing lava.Credit: Maria Ermolova

You may have the same problem. Our incoming flight from Maui would arrive at 8am, and our outgoing flight to Oahu would depart at 8pm.

Surely, as experienced travellers, we could see a simple volcano by ourselves? Hire a car – around $US150 ($205) including insurance and gas – and we'd have done it.

Yet a day before we'd flown in, we'd changed our minds. We're only going to be here once with young children who love volcanoes, we thought. So, damn the expense. Why not book a tour?

Fields and volcanoes along Kohala Mountain Road on Big Island.

Fields and volcanoes along Kohala Mountain Road on Big Island.Credit: Pikappa

Fortunately for us Mauka Makai Adventures ("Mountain to Sea" in Hawaiian, but not the easiest name to find on the internet) had a last minute cancellation.

So here we are, having committed $US450 on a full day Volcano Tour. What did we get for that extra $US300? And was it worth it?

To be honest, one of the reasons we'd ditched the hire car option was because we'd read internet reports about Big Island day trippers hiring cars in advance only to spend a frustrating hour or two waiting for cars to be returned before they could depart.

Jill, however, had been waiting for us at Kona airport and we'd set off within 10 minutes (stopping for coffees and breakfast snacks at places Jill recommended).

On the way up through Kona's suburbs, Jill pointed out the fields of melia or plumeria – the flower known to Australians as frangipani - and still one of the Big Island's biggest cash crops for use as the lei that are presented in Hawaii as a symbol of affection on arrival or departure.

Soon we're on the high saddle between Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa. What's the difference?

Just the small fact that Mauna Kea is a dormant volcano, while Mauna Loa is still active.

Jill explained that Mauna Kea is one of the world's most desired astronomical locations because of its unpolluted night skies, its good weather high above the clouds, its low humidity and its position virtually on the equator. Plus (though Jill doesn't actually say this) its relatively small risk of blowing everything sky high.

There are already 13 observation facilities on the mountain, known collectively as the Mauna Kea Science Reserve. Apparently though, Jill tells us, there's currently a huge controversy among Big Islanders. Should Mauna Kea become the site of what is called the Thirty Meter Telescope, recommended by the US National Academy of Sciences?

Native Hawaiians objected. The summit of Mauna Kea is sacred land, Jill tells us, "considered wao akua, the realm of the gods. they pointed out. The dispute was still going on when we visited in July 2015. In fact we can see signs protesting against the proposed "very large telescope" as Jill's people mover speeds up the mountain road.

At one point she pulls over by a vast lava field with good views of Mauna Loa. It's no surprise to discover scientists call the different types of lava by their Hawaiian names. After all, the entire Hawaiian archipelago owes its existence to volcanic lava.

So far, much of the lava we've seen along the roadside has been the jagged, sharp-edged form known as a'a (pronounced ah-ah) – a basaltic lava that erupts at temperatures between 1000-1100 degrees, appears to flow very slowly while building in mass and then advances, quickly cooling the spiky, sculptural forms.

But we're now standing on a shiny, smooth "lake" of pahoehoe (pronounced pa-ho-ho). This erupts at higher temperatures (between 1100-1200 degrees), is much thinner and less viscous than a'a, and flows down the slopes of a volcano in massive molten rivers.

Both Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa are typical Hawaiian shield volcanoes – very large and gently sloped. Not at all like the steep Stromboli cones most of us associate with volcanoes.

Yet though it may not look steep, Jill tells us Mauna Loa is not just the largest volcano but the largest mountain on earth. Measured from the ocean bed to its peak, Mauna Loa is more than 9000 metres – just 50 metres or so taller than Everest.

At Hilo, we turn off to spend a relaxing 45 minutes at Waianuenue, better known as the Rainbow Falls because the 24-metre plunge of the Wailuku River is known to send up a plume of mist in which rainbows can be seen.

Not today, sadly.

But at the top of the falls we meet lucky hikers who have the time to head upstream to the Peepee Falls and the Boiling Pots, terraced pools of cascading water that are one of the Wailuku River State Park's main attractions.

From Hilo, we speed south almost immediately into the really active part of the Hawaii Volcanoes National Park.

As a local, Jill provides us with fascinating insights into life on the Big Island – education, social challenges and the qualities needed to enjoy life. But suddenly we are in Volcano Village, an alternative society of painters, potters, glass blowers and cafe owners who live in the eruption zone of Kilauea.

Kilauea, which has been erupting since 1983, has sometimes been called "the world's only drive-in volcano".

Usually we'd be able to drive around the 17km Crater Rim Drive. But today (and for the foreseeable future) it is partially closed because of the noxious plume being emitted by Kilauea.

Instead Jill shows us the incredible view of the Kilauea crater before introducing us to something even more extraordinary – a 500-year-old tunnel formed by thrusting lava that has since eroded.

By now, we are all agreed. Paying extra for the guided tour was worth it. No matter how much we parents had read in guidebooks beforehand, the children would never have listened to us as they listened to Jill, a genuine local. And isn't that the way it should be?

By the time we arrive at the Kilauea Visitor Centre, it is full of coach parties taking selfies of the cauldron. Only a few months ago, the floor of the cauldron was a red lake of lava.

Sadly, we have to rush on because now we have one final choice for the day.

My wife and sons want to swim at Punalu'u black volcanic beach where there might be Hawaiian Green Sea Turtles.

I, on the other hand, want to visit Kealakekua Bay, where Captain Cook came to his untimely demise in 1779.

Guys, there's a monument! It's a great snorkelling spot! Home to Hawaiian spinner dolphins! Just a short, 7km round trip! Only 800 metres up and down!

Suffice it to say, the turtles won.

Still that gives us a reason to come back to the Big Island.

Wait a minute ... that didn't work out too well for Captain Cook.

TRIP NOTES

MORE INFORMATION

gohawaii.com.au

GETTING THERE

Hawaiian Airlines flies daily from Sydney and four times weekly from Brisbane direct to Honolulu, using new Airbus A330-200 aircraft. Connections from Melbourne and other Australian cities available with preferred partner Virgin Australia.

Hawaiian Airlines also has around 160 daily Boeing 717 flights between Honolulu at Kauai, Maui and both Kona and Hilo on Hawaii Island (The Big Island). See hawaiianairlines.com.au

TOURING THERE

Mauka Makai Adventures: maukamakaiadventures.com

Steve Meacham travelled at his own expense.

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