Cold outside... Astra Alpine Lodge.
Falls Creek's ski-in, ski-out lodges include award-winners and thrive on community spirit, writes Robert Upe.
As a late-afternoon storm rages, skiers and snowboarders take shelter. The cafes and bars of Falls Creek's pretty alpine village fill with people shaking off the snow as they discard hats, goggles and jackets.
With an abundance of fresh falls, the slopes are in great condition this season and, apart from the tube park, the resort is fully operational, including the Ruined Castle area, which is popular with more advanced skiers.
Falls Creek's lodges really come to life in the afternoon as skiers seek bubbling spas, hot chocolate and crackling fires. Here's what two well-known lodges have to offer.
Astra Alpine Lodge
The wow factor at this award-winning 18-room lodge includes the stone fireplace that dominates the lounge, an area with leather lounges and finished in warm timbers. There are nooks where guests can play chess or read and a cocktail-style bar where staff serve up to 70 varieties of vodka.
Trackers mountain lodge.
Rooms The motel-style rooms are adequate, with en suites and televisions. Some rooms interconnect for families, but unless you're in the 10-person penthouse, there seems little reason to linger.
Eat A breakfast buffet is included in the price; dinner (open to non-guests) costs $10-$18 for entrees, $28-$34 for mains, and $14 for desserts. Organic sirloin with rosemary potatoes, Indonesian curry and passionfruit souffle are part of the changing menu.
Drink The vodka range includes a menu of "tours", from $15 for a sample of three. Unusual vodkas include one with gold specks floating in it and the rare Polish siwucha.
Big appetite... a burger at Gateway Cafe.
Music Nicky Bomba, the drummer of the John Butler Trio, played at Astra recently with Bustamentoo; next month, Cold Chisel's lead guitarist, Ian Moss, plays.
Something special Indoor heated pool, sauna, float tank and yoga.
Fireplace Open log.
To the slopes Ski-in, ski-out access is possible. The easiest lifts to access are Gully Chairlift and the Falls Express. Return via home trails and the track at the back of the lodge, or via Sitzmark Street. The closest ski hire is next door at Village Ski Hire.
Nearby Three Blue Ducks Cafe (see burger review), where there's great coffee and a homestyle sausage roll costs $1 an inch.
Check-in Low-season twin-share Meridian rooms start at $260 a night, including breakfast and free wi-fi; high-season starts at $520 a night. 5 Sitzmark Street, phone 57583496. See astralodge.com.au.
Trackers Mountain Lodge
Falls Creek is open year round and has several hundred permanent residents. The community feel is palpable. A snowstorm, flat car battery and a local to the rescue is proof for us. And behind its heavy wooden doors, Trackers, owned by Janette Lawson for the past 11 years, continues in that vein.
Rooms If you have children, book the spa panorama room with an adjoining room for the kids.
Eat Breakfast and dinner (for house guests only) is included in the price. From Friday to Tuesday, there's a seven-course degustation dinner that might include kangaroo, beef and roasted field mushrooms with feta on a changing menu; Wednesday is a "Christmas" dinner with turkey; on Thursday there's an early dinner sitting so guests can go out for the Village Bowl show (in July-August) and return for supper and schnapps.
Drink The bar is open nightly from 4.30pm.
Something special Children are fed at 6pm then ushered to the games room by teenage girls (part of the service here) in time for adult aperitifs to begin. But forget the idea of a cosy dinner for two in this congenial space; affable table sharing is encouraged. That community spirit again.
Fireplace Open log.
To the slopes Ski in, ski out is possible. The easiest lift access is Falls Express via home trails or the Eagle Chairlift via a steep slope next to the stairway leading to the Village Bowl. When coming back via home trails, skating is required about 100 metres from the door. While queueing for the lift, chat with guest services manager Peter Hull, who is also the craft-beer aficionado of Sweetwater at nearby Mount Beauty. The beer is served at the lodge. The closest ski hire is Central Snowsports at Cedarwood Lodge across the road.
Nearby The Village Bowl has a cafe, ski hire, snow tubing and a bungy trampoline. The creche at the base of the Falls Express chairlift is open seven days a week, has qualified staff and takes children who are aged from 12 weeks to five years. Both morning and evening sessions are available.
Check-in Low-season two-night stays start at $307 a person twin share, including breakfast, dinner and free wi-fi. High season starts at $475 a person. Single-night bookings are not encouraged. 16 Schuss Street, phone 57583346. See trackers.com.au.
Other places to stay
Nelse Lodge has an open log-fire lounge, bar, heated pool, spa and sauna; see nelselodge.com.
Falls Creek Hotel has an open fire, separate dinner sitting for children and a kids club; see fallscreekhotel.com.au.
Pretty Valley Lodge has a prime spot near Falls Creek Express Quad Chairlift an open fire, 22-seat cinema and English-style pub; see prettyvalley.com.
Robert Upe visited courtesy of Falls Creek Resort. Additional reporting by Jane Reddy.
FAST FACTS
Getting there
From Melbourne take the Hume Highway and turn off at the Snow Road via Oxley, Milawa and Myrtleford to Mount Beauty. (About 4.5 hours)
Skiing there
Adult daily lift ticket $106; child $53. Overnight car pass $39.50.
More information
See fallscreek.com.au.
THE FALLS BURGER TEST
Three Blue Ducks The $16 gourmet burger in a sourdough roll with coleslaw appears to be the healthiest choice of the three reviewed here. The beef patty is a little dry from overcooking and the coleslaw has a hint of peppery spice. No chips. The cafe, a clone of Sydney's Three Blue Ducks at Bronte, has replaced Huski Produce Store and uses locally sourced and organic food. Score 7.5/10.
Milch The $22 steak burger has onion, bacon, cheese and six potato wedges. Milch is under new management and there's a good vibe this season. The steak burger is a bit dry but deserves another chance because the new owner is so friendly and the philosophy of sourcing produce locally is commendable. Score 7/10.
Gateway Cafe The $15 burger with the lot has a sesame-seed roll, bacon, egg, beetroot, onion, cheese, tomato and mayo. No chips. It's a handful and awkward to eat but delivers on everything expected from a traditional burger. Score 8/10.
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