Hotel Metropole Monte-Carlo review, Monaco: Where the rich stay for low-key luxe

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This was published 8 years ago

Hotel Metropole Monte-Carlo review, Monaco: Where the rich stay for low-key luxe

What makes the Hotel Metropole Monte-Carlo such a special place to wake up? Ute Junker reports.

By Ute Junker
Updated
Hotel Metropole Monte-Carlo.

Hotel Metropole Monte-Carlo.

In Monaco, it can be tempting to dress to the nines. Frankly, I wouldn't bother. As a local once told me, "Monaco is not the place to show off. You will never win."

It doesn't take long to realise that there are two types of rich people wandering around Monaco, the original millionaire's playground. You notice the bling crowd first. They have the biggest yachts, the highest heels and the worst manners.

Then there is the other type. Neatly but simply dressed, they could be mistaken for regular folk like you and me, unless you recognise the Brunello Cucinelli cashmere jumper or the Patek Philippe watch they are wearing. These are the ones who stay at the Hotel Metropole Monte Carlo, a property that matches their predilection for low-key luxe.

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The Hotel Metropole is for those who don't need to try hard. Tucked at the bottom of a long, plant-lined driveway, it's about the discreet entrance rather than a head-swivelling arrival. You are still in the centre of the action, ensconced in the prestigious Monte Carlo neighbourhood, but out of the spotlight.

There is no blindingly-bright lobby, all marble and chandeliers; instead, the Metropole's lobby is a cosy space with rough cut walls of warm yellow stone. Comfortable seats are grouped together for intimate chats; those seeking even more privacy can retire to one of the portrait-lined ante-chambers. It is less dramatic than some lobbies, but an inviting space to relax over a drink.

Explore the Hotel Metropole in 360° via Street View

Hotel Metropole Monte-Carlo: Dessert is served.

Hotel Metropole Monte-Carlo: Dessert is served.

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Everything in the Metropole – from the sofa-studded alcoves in the long corridors to the silk-lined walls and the aged Oriental carpets in the lift – creates an elegant yet welcoming feel. Thank the dream team that was assembled to refresh the hotel a decade ago, which included interiors guru Jacques Garcia, design icon Karl Lagerfeld and spa legend Susan Harmsworth. For my money, however, the star player in this particular team is the man responsible for the food.

The Hotel Metropole offers a number of dining choices: two formal restaurants (one Mediterranean, one Asian), the snack menu in the lobby bar, and Odyssey, a lighter, spa-style dining option by the pool. All four of them are overseen by one man: French superchef Joël Robuchon.

Robuchon is famous for many things, including his notorious mashed potatoes, essentially a huge amount of butter leavened with just a little potato. I enjoy a superb Mediterranean lunch at the two Michelin-starred Restaurant Joël Robuchon (his Japanese outlet, Yoshii, also has a star), but where Monsieur Robuchon really wins my heart is at breakfast.

This in itself is odd, as I am not a breakfast person. The only time I eat before noon is when I am staying in hotels, and then only for research purposes. My first morning, I dutifully head down to Odyssey, where I figure the options will be lighter, and choose a simple fruit salad. However, I can't help picking at the pain aux raisins in the pastry basket, which turns out to be melt-in-the-mouth delicious. It's so good, I resolve to try the full breakfast tomorrow.

This, it turns out, is one of the smartest decisions of my life. Really, I have just come to enjoy another pain aux raisins, so once the pastry basket is set before me, I'm happy. My waiter, however, has bigger plans.

"The breakfast trolley will be along in a moment," he says, his voice full of promise.

At the Metropole, they don't do anything as plebeian as a breakfast buffet. Instead, a grand wooden trolley is wheeled over, laden with different types of bread, a selection of cheeses and cold cuts, fruit, yoghurt, and pretty much anything else you can think of. I choose some cold cuts and bread.

I'm beginning to get into the spirit of things. When my waiter, having been knocked back the first time, again suggests that I might like a hot drink, I request a hot chocolate.

"French or Italian style?" he asks.

It's a reasonable question. French hot chocolate is milky and light, Italian hot chocolate darker and thicker. However, no one has ever offered me this choice before. I'm impressed.

My waiter, however, is not yet done. Clearly under the impression that I need further fortification, he offers me a variety of hot dishes. I go for broke and order some hard-boiled eggs. They arrive in silver egg cups. This, however, is not what makes me swoon. What makes me swoon is the fact that they are already peeled.

Now I really feel like a millionaire.

TRIP NOTES

MORE INFORMATION

www.le-metropole-monaco.fr

STAYING THERE

Hotel Metropole Monte-Carlo, 4 Avenue de la Madone, Monaco. Rates start at €350 ($485).

GETTING THERE

Emirates Airlines operates daily flights from Adelaide, Brisbane, Melbourne, Perth and Sydney to Dubai, with five onward connections per week from Dubai to the city of Nice. Monaco is seven minutes from Nice by helicopter, or 30 minutes by car.

The writer was a guest of the Hotel Metropole Monte-Carlo.

See also: The 15 hotels that dreams are made of

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