Hotel Review: Four Seasons Bangkok at Chao Phraya River offers riverside luxury

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Hotel Review: Four Seasons Bangkok at Chao Phraya River offers riverside luxury

By Anthony Dennis
The extensive, unrivalled riverside setting and amenities is a sanctuary from the still chaotic city beyond.

The extensive, unrivalled riverside setting and amenities is a sanctuary from the still chaotic city beyond.

CHECK-IN

Take me to the river. Actually, more to the point, take me directly to the Four Seasons Hotel Bangkok at Chao Phraya River (as much a mouthful as that can be). This glamorous, relatively new, self-styled urban resort is set smack bang beside a sizeable section of the exotic Thai capital's aquatic artery. It all seems successfully calculated to apply some chic contemporary five-star water torture-like competition to certain other establishments riverside. To some degree overlooked by visitors as a location for a Bangkok stay, to its admirers, this elongated oasis of a river represents the (albeit befouled) essence of this sprawling, hopelessly unplanned South-East Asian behemoth.

THE LOOK

Above ground level, the hotel's architecture is not especially inspiring, with much of the aesthetic attention from go-to Belgian designer Jean-Michel Gathy wisely devoted to its uncommonly extensive river-facing spaces. Shallow polished rock and lotus-scattered pools, interspersed with table and chair-set islets shaded by towering columns, lead seductively down to the Chao Phraya. Closer to the riverbank and promenade is the larger, deeper and totally swimmable resort-like pool. Indoors, the suitably tall-ceilinged, mutedly-toned hotel lobby is adorned with bold, curated artwork by talented Thai artists drawn from leading local galleries and with carefully selected and lavish coffee table tomes for guest perusal.

THE ROOM

My attractive deluxe riverside digs are a commodious 50-square metres with fabulous views, morning, noon and night of the Chao Phraya and the city's scattered skyline. In one of many of the pleasing touches and accoutrements, the small, nook-like chaise lounge relaxation space comes with a rack of topical books and magazines. If you can do without a view, book one of the less expensive (though admittedly still pricey) entry-point courtyard rooms which still allows full access to the hotel's manifest delights.

My attractive deluxe riverside digs are a commodious 50-square metres with fabulous views, morning, noon and night of the Chao Phraya and the city's scattered skyline. In one of many of the pleasing touches and accoutrements, the small, nook-like chaise lounge relaxation space comes with a rack of topical books and magazines. If you can do without a view, book one of the less expensive (though admittedly still pricey) entry-point courtyard rooms which still allows full access to the hotel's manifest delights.

FOOD + DRINK

As befitting one of Asia's undisputed culinary capitals, eating and drinking plays an integral role in this hotel's package. It wasn't all that long after its opening, unluckily only a few months before the pandemic was declared, that Yu Ting Yuan the in-house Cantonese restaurant overlooking the courtyard pool scored a Michelin star, though curiously the equally impressive Italian restaurant, Riva del Fiume, missed out.  More recently, the hotel's signature bar, BKK Social Club, inspired by the slinky speakeasy-like watering holes of early 20th century Buenos Aires, was named as one of Asia's 10 best drinking holes in the coveted World's 50 Best Awards (and, yes, one of the delectable negroni-like drinks is inevitably called "Evita"). Right on the riverside, there's also a French restaurant, Palmier, with rumours of a Japanese eatery to come.

As befitting one of Asia's undisputed culinary capitals, eating and drinking plays an integral role in this hotel's package. It wasn't all that long after its opening, unluckily only a few months before the pandemic was declared, that Yu Ting Yuan the in-house Cantonese restaurant overlooking the courtyard pool scored a Michelin star, though curiously the equally impressive Italian restaurant, Riva del Fiume, missed out. More recently, the hotel's signature bar, BKK Social Club, inspired by the slinky speakeasy-like watering holes of early 20th century Buenos Aires, was named as one of Asia's 10 best drinking holes in the coveted World's 50 Best Awards (and, yes, one of the delectable negroni-like drinks is inevitably called "Evita"). Right on the riverside, there's also a French restaurant, Palmier, with rumours of a Japanese eatery to come.

OUT + ABOUT

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While we've been gone, Bangkok's edgy, so-called creative district has become a smash hit with locals and now returning tourists. Hugging some riverside hoods not far from the Four Seasons, shoved full of galleries, restaurants, cafes, bars and street art, it's the antithesis of Bangkok's fleshpots. Shrewdly eager to align itself with this cool part of the Thai capital and with its own fully-fledged art gallery in collaboration with the Bangkok Museum of Contemporary Art, the hotel offers guests paid tours of the creative district as well as to the historical Thai-Portuguese Kudeejeen neighbourhood.

THE VERDICT

A large vote of confidence in the Chao Phraya River and its underappreciated allures, this exceptionally well-conceived and well-run luxury hotel delivers a memorable experience for the Bangkok visitor who can afford it.

ESSENTIALS

Deluxe rooms with courtyard views start from THB13,500 ($530) a night. 300/1 Charoen Krung Road, Khwaeng Yan Nawa, Khet Sathon, Bangkok, Thailand. Phone +66 2032 0888. See fourseasons.com

Anthony Dennis stayed a guest of Four Seasons Hotel Bangkok at Chao Phraya River.

OUR SCORE OUT OF FIVE

★★★★★

HIGHLIGHT

The extensive, unrivalled riverside setting and amenities is a sanctuary from the still chaotic city beyond

LOWLIGHT

A befuddled tuk tuk driver deposited us at the location of the former Four Seasons in the centre of the city

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