How to order wine in France

Who doesn't dread the moment when a sommelier lumbers up to your table to ask if you'd like a Puligny-Montrachet 'Corvee des Vignes' Jean-Marc Vincent 2008? To which the only reply is that of course you would. The alternative is having to consult a wine list of 300 equally baffling choices.

You'd be well informed to know Puligny-Montrachet is a chardonnay, such is the bamboozling number of French wine estates. The absence of grape variety on French AOP (Appellation d'Origine Protegee, or protected designation of origin) wine labels challenges Australians used to taking this as their starting point when choosing wine.

An AOP wine comes from a specific French wine region and is the highest-ranking wine though, as each region has its own production rules, quality varies. Grape variety (cepage) isn't labelled on AOP wines because many are blends of several grape varieties.

Your starting point should instead be the region of origin, so prime yourself before you travel on the basics. For example, if you enjoy pinot noir look to Burgundy, or if chardonnay is your tipple try Chablis.

That said, there are some 300 AOC appellations producing half the wine in France, which is a lot of homework. There'll be some (like Gigondas or Minervois) you've never heard of. Confusingly, regions can overlap. Margaux is an AOP appellation entirely within Medoc AOP; both in turn lie in Bordeaux AOP.

The rub is that you won't see the region labelled either. You just have to know that Puligny-Montrachet is from Beaune in Burgundy. Fortunately, wine menus are usually organised by region. In shops, you can squint at the estate's address in tiny print on the back of the bottle.

Dispirited? The good news is that the two other types of French wine do list grape variety. These are IGP wines (Indication Geographique Protegee) from wider, more vaguely defined geographical origins, and basic Vins de France that might use grapes from several regions.

With fewer regulations, IGP wines can be experimental and interesting, while a €5 Vin de France can be pleasing enough. In fact, knowing the grape variety improves the odds that it will suit your taste.

Other indicators of quality lurk on the label. You'd have to be an expert to know which year of harvest is best, but the term "mis en bouteille" (estate bottled) and name of the producer (referred to as the chateau, domaine or proprietaire) indicate boutique production rather than wine created in an industrial co-operative.

The specific vineyard (cru, literally "growth") is another clue. Forget the details, since classifications confusingly differ between regions. However, if you see Grand Cru, Premier Cru or Grand Cru Classe on a wine label, then the vineyard has a prestigious reputation.

Finally, champagne lovers should know that this fiercely protected AOC prevents sparkling wine beyond Champagne region from getting any glory. However, wine labelled Methode Champenoise or Cremant provides often great French bubbly at half the price. And who wouldn't drink to that?