This was published 8 years ago
How to see art in New York without stepping into a gallery
By Barry Divola
New York and art – where do you begin? The Metropolitan Museum Of Art? MOMA? The Whitney? All those galleries in Chelsea and Soho? That's just the tip of the iceberg – and it's only the stuff that's indoors. What about art that's sitting in the street, hiding in plain sight?
First-time visitors and even long-time New Yorkers are often surprised to learn that they can see a 1986 Keith Haring mural in a Harlem playground or they can get up close and personal with an iconic Robert Indiana sculpture on a bustling street corner in midtown.
With a bit of research and a subway map, you can easily spend an entire day seeking out public art from one end of Manhattan to the other. So that's exactly what I decided to do, starting way up in Harlem at nine in the morning and finishing down at Battery Park at four in the afternoon – seven hours, 10 major artworks, one Metro card and not a single museum entry fee.
Crack Is Wack by Keith Haring
E128th Street at 2nd Avenue
In 1986, Keith Haring spied an abandoned handball court in a desolate paved park in East Harlem and decided to paint it. The city was in the grip of a crack cocaine epidemic and one of Haring's young assistants had spiralled into addiction. It inspired Haring to paint Crack Is Wack – a bright red background with a skull hovering above his trademark cartoon figures and vibrating lines. Like most of his street art, this was an illegal work, and Haring was busted by a cop and fined $25. Today this illegal mural is protected by the city and they have officially renamed the park Crack Is Wack Park.
LOVE by Robert Indiana
Sixth Avenue at 55th Street
Tourists flock to the red and blue LOVE sculpture on a busy corner in midtown, taking Robert Indiana's message to heart and snapping photos of each other hugging, kissing and frolicking around it. What they mightn't know is this: LOVE is one of the most recognised and replicated pop art images of all time, gaining popularity after MOMA commissioned it for use in a Christmas card in 1965, then being embraced by the hippie movement before becoming a US postage stamp in 1973.
Mural With Blue Brushstroke by Roy Lichtenstein
Lobby of AXA Equitable Centre, 787 Seventh Avenue between 51st and 52nd Streets
Want to see a 20-metre high original by pop art legend Roy Lichtenstein for free? It's right there in the lobby of an insurance company. Painted in 1986, Mural With Blue Brushtroke is like a greatest hits collage of the artist's career. Sit on one of the couches in the atrium to gaze at it for a while and you can spot motifs from some of his most famous works, along with references to Henri Matisse, Georges Braque, Jasper Johns and Donald Judd.
Life Underground by Tom Otterness
14th Street-Eighth Avenue Subway
Did you know that the MTA – New York's transportation authority – actually has a budget for music and art in the subway system? All this, plus the trains run on time. The best-known and most loved subway art installations are undoubtedly the bronze figures dotted around the 14th Street-Eighth Avenue station. Sitting on benches, perching on hand rails and hiding between columns you'll find a series of whimsical cartoonish figures sweeping up coins, carrying tools, waiting for trains, or in one case, being attacked by an alligator coming out of a manhole cover.
Alamo by Tony Rosenthal
Astor Place
Most New Yorkers know this sculpture that sits on a traffic island as the Astor Place cube. Originally a temporary installation in 1967, New Yorkers took to it so well that it has stood there ever since. It's also a popular meeting place for those going out in the East Village. It weighs over 800 kilograms but you can actually spin it on its axis if you get a couple of friends together and push. Over the years it has been covered in graffiti, posters and knitted wool and even transformed into a giant Rubik's Cube.
Gay Liberation by George Segal
Christopher Park at Sheridon Square, W4th Street at Grove Street
To understand the story of the white figures in Christopher Park, you have to look over the road at a bar called The Stonewall Inn. On June 28, 1969, police raided this gay bar, violence ensued and 13 people were arrested. A series of protests took place in the days and weeks that followed, igniting the gay rights movement in the USA. Segal's 1992 sculptures of same-sex couples in the tiny, quiet park are a lasting tribute to those who paved the way.
Subway Map Floating On A New York Sidewalk by Francoise Schein
110 Greene Street between Prince and Spring Street
Even many locals are unaware that the stainless steel rods and glass bulbs embedded in a pavement in Soho tell a story. In 1985, Belgian architect, urban planner and artist Francoise Schein was commissioned by real estate developer and arts benefactor Tony Goldman to create an artwork on the pavement. Fascinated by the map of Manhattan's subway, she decided to render it in steel over a length of 27 metres. At night the glass bulbs representing the stations light up.
Balloon Flower (Red) by Jeff Koons
250 Greenwich Street
It's difficult not to smile when you see one of Jeff Koons' metallic sculptures that are outsized versions of balloon animals and objects. And the location of this one, a big red shiny flower, is a place where levity is not a given – it's in a triangular park at 7 WTC, near where the World Trade Centre used to stand. The sculpture is surrounded by water jets and stone benches where office workers often congregate at lunchtime to get fresh air and see themselves reflected in Koons' gleaming sculpture.
Charging Bull by Arturo Di Modica
Broadway at Whitehall Street
Many assume that the 3.5 tonne bronze bull in Manhattan's financial district is a city-approved icon. In fact, Sicilian sculptor Arturo Di Modica – who created the bull in an optimistic response to the stock market crash of 1987 – illegally dumped the sculpture in front of the New York Stock Exchange in December 1989. City officials were unimpressed and had it removed the next day. But the public had already fallen in love with this daring piece of guerilla art and a series of protests resulted in it being installed in its current location. Visitors swarm around the bull each day and are often photographed touching its shiny nether regions for good luck.
The Sphere by Fritz Koenig
Battery Park between Battery Place and State Street
Fritz Koenig made this 20-tonne sculpture in 1971 to represent world peace through trade and it was installed in the plaza between the twin towers of the World Trade Centre. Despite being damaged, it somehow survived the attacks of September 11, 2001, and was moved to Battery Park without being repaired, a symbol of scarred resilience in the face of terror. "It was a sculpture, now it's a monument," Koenig said. "It now has a different beauty, one I could never imagine. It has its own life, different from the one I gave to it."
FIVE MODERN STREET ARTISTS IN NYC
Stikman
Since the 1990s, this anonymous street artist has been leaving his trademark tiny robot-like flattened figures embedded in pedestrian crossings and walls all over Manhattan. (See a "stick man" inside a disused police call box on Tenth Avenue and 21st Street, also containing a figurine by street sculptor Phil)
Invader
This French artist creates intricate tiled mosaics of old videogame figures from the '70s and '80s such as Space Invaders. (See one of his mosaics up on the side of the High Line at W15th Street and Tenth Avenue)
Fumero
Psychedelic swirls of colour are Fumero's trademark, whether he's painting large-scale scenes, portraits or his many representations of his Italian family. (See one of his "Family Table" pictures on the wall of 520 W22nd Street))
Shepard Fairey
You'll know Fairey's work from his famous red-and-blue "Hope" image of Barack Obama. You can find his street art, often incorporating a stylised image of wrestler Andre The Giant, from DUMBO to Manhattan. (See "Peace Dove" high up on a building on Elizabeth Street south of Houston Street)
ROA
The large black-and-white pictures of animals and birds on Manhattan walls are the work of Belgian artist ROA. He always paints creatures native to each city where he works, so it's no surprise that rats feature heavily in NYC. (See a giant bird on the wall of Albert's Garden on E2nd Street between Second Avenue and Broadway.)
TRIP NOTES
MORE INFORMATION
discoveramerica.com
GETTING THERE
Virgin Australia flies daily to Los Angeles from Sydney with connections to New York via their alliance partner Delta Airlines. See virginaustralia.com or call 136 789
STAYING THERE
Mr & Mrs Smith is a boutique hotel booking specialist, offering best available rates and free extras on 22 New York hotels. mrandmrssmith.com
TOURING THERE
Saddleshoe Tours offer six different modern street art walking tours in Manhattan and Brooklyn. Cost is $US100 for up to four people. See saddleshoetours.com
Barry Divola was a guest of Discover America (discoveramerica.com) and Mr & Mrs Smith (mrandmrssmith.com)
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