This was published 13 years ago
Hullett House, Hong Kong review: Lady with a history
Stroke of luxe ... the Hullett's elegant exterior.
Penny Watson discovers an indulgent reinvention of old Hong Kong.
Hotels can be infamously generic, the same-same nature of the rooms sometimes giving rise to that momentary waking sensation of not knowing in which city you went to bed. Fortunately, that is not the case at the Tsing Lung suite of Hullett House Hotel, where I am lying in a one-of-a-kind four-poster bed, its craftsmanship inspired by that of a traditional Confucian temple.
It has a wooden roof with curved eaves, a brightly coloured fretwork frame and, on either side, matching colonnades draped with extravagant fabric finished with gold tassels. Next to the bed, a traditional hand-carved Chinese lantern serves as a bedside lamp, and a wooden chair, in the style of an emperor's throne, graces an antique writing desk. Murals of rural scenes from the Tang Dynasty decorate the walls.
There is certainly no doubt I am in China and when I step through french doors on to a balcony, there is little doubt I am in Hong Kong. From here, I have magnificent views not only of the landscaped gardens and courtyards below but also of the Kowloon waterfront, the city skyline and Victoria Harbour.
The hotel occupies the upper floor of Hullett House, part of the new 1881 Heritage complex, Hong Kong's latest ode to high-end shopping and dining.
Dubbed the "old lady of Tsim Sha Tsui", the white-stucco colonial building, which had pride of place on Victoria Harbour until land reclamation had its way, is the former Marine Police Headquarters and one of the oldest buildings in Hong Kong. Given the city's propensity to demolish and develop, the building's survival, surrounded by Kowloon's glass and metallic high-rise buildings, is almost miraculous.
Kudos for reinventing the past in such a manner goes to well-known local entrepreneur and designer David Yeo, whose Aqua Restaurant Group brought famed local restaurant Hutong into being.
Yeo describes Hullett House as his passion project, "a gift of old Hong Kong, for the people of new Hong Kong".
Hullett House is certainly a dose of the old finished with the aplomb of the new. When I'm escorted to my suite, marketing director Eunice is at pains to point out that the Chinese murals are not merely wallpaper but individually hand-painted works. The sculpture and paintings in all 10 of the hotel's bespoke suites, she says, have either been individually purchased by Yeo or selected from his personal collection.
A quick tour reveals just how diverse this collection must be. Each suite is designed to reflect a distinct period in Hong Kong's Chinese and British history - an ambitious approach but a successful one despite the stylistic extremes.
One would hardly guess that the Casam suite, with its white walls, oversized globe lights and painting of a bubble gum-blowing Chairman Mao, resides in the same hotel as the Scottish-inspired Castle Peak suite, with its hand-painted mural, thistle-patterned wall fabric and antler chandelier.
Despite the design contrasts, the suites share the spaciousness and indulgences of a heritage building. The suites have separate foyers and bathrooms to ensure bedrooms retain the authenticity of each "theme".
King-sized beds and wide-screen televisions are a given and bathrooms have rain showers and freestanding baths.
Drag yourself away from the rooms and the hustle and bustle of Tsim Sha Tsui is on the doorstep, a chaotic streetscape of neon shop signs, touts selling cheap handbags and shopping malls with big-name brands. A visit to Hong Kong Island is a short and worthy journey on the nearby Star Ferry.
Further afield, the Jade Market is a bargain hunter's gem and Temple Street Night Market is one of the few open-air markets left in the city. If you're prepared to queue for a seat, Tim Ho Wan, the dim sum restaurant with the world's cheapest Michelin-starred dishes, is a short taxi ride away.
I opt to dine in-house at one of Hullett House's five restaurants. The George is designed with a nostalgic British eye and despite the English references, the menu has an unashamedly French influence serving snails "a la bourguignon" and a delicious pan-fried foie gras.
Though breakfast in my Confucian temple bed is tempting, I can't resist eggs benedict on the verandah of The Parlour. With its bentwood chairs, palm trees and whirring fans, I feel very much like I've landed in Hong Kong - both old and new.
Penny Watson stayed courtesy of Hullett House.
FAST FACTS
Getting there
Qantas has a fare for about $1360 low-season return from Melbourne and Sydney, including tax ,flying non-stop (9 hours). Cathay Pacific has a similar fare flying non-stop, while Virgin Atlantic flies from Sydney only non-stop.
Staying there
Hullett House (Canton Road, Tsim Sha Tsui; hulletthousehotel.com; +852 3988 0000) promotional rates from July to September start at $HK6750 ($998) and include breakfast at The Parlour, dinner at The George (to the value of $HK2000) and limousine airport transfers.
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