This was published 8 years ago
How to guide for India's giant Navratri festival
By Tatyana Leonov
An Indian Hindu devotee prays outside the historical Goddess Kali temple on the first day of the Navratri festival in the northern Indian city of Jammu, the winter capital of Kashmir.Credit: Alamy
It all starts with confusion. Our driver isn't there to meet us at Jammu Airport, so we hail a cab, negotiate a fee with the taxi driver and set off to Hotel Jehlum Resort. The taxi driver spends most of the 10-minute drive shouting to someone on the other line, and upon arrival at the hotel declares we don't have to pay a cent. He explains, almost bellowing for some reason, that the driver who was meant to meet us at the airport was actually there but somehow we missed each other. Since my husband and I were the only two international tourists on the plane, the fact that we jumped in with a taxi driver was quickly relayed to him.
Our 'real' driver meets us after we check in to take us to Bahu Fort, a beautiful complex located a few kilometres drive from the hotel on the bank of Tawi River. Although our driver's English isn't at a scholarly level, through hand signals and the help of hotel staff we learn that we will be spending the afternoon exploring the fort, believed to be close to 3000 years old and home a beautiful temple.
Bave Wali Mata Mandir temple is dedicated to Hindu goddess Kali and it's popular with domestic pilgrims year-round. In fact, many Hindus consider it second only to Shri Mata Vaishno Devi, one of the most-visited pilgrim sites in the whole of India.
An Indian Hindu devotee whirls her head as she prays outside the historical Goddess Kali temple on the first day of the Navratri festival. Credit: Alamy
As we near the fort we notice how frenetically busy the area is. Aromas of deep-fried treats and the spicy-sweet waft of incense drift into the car as we slowly manouevre our way through the colourful chaos. Indian incense is an amalgam of various unique aromas not found in many other places in the world, and this is our first time back to India in 10 years – and smell is a powerful memory trigger.
Our driver repeats the word "Navratri several times before we grasp that he's attempting to explain there's a festival on. He pulls into an overflowing car park to let us out of the vehicle and points down a road and then at himself, repeating the gesture several times. We conclude that we are to meet him down the road. We've declined the offer of a guide just for today… and so we set off to explore.
Navratri is a nine-day Hindu festival celebrated four times a year and we've lucked out with our timing as it's an incredibly lively time to visit. To put it in perspective, Shri Mata Vaishno Devi sees a massive surge in followers during Navratri – an estimated eight to 10 million pilgrims visit each year.
A woman offers Garland to the Goddess Kaali on the last day of Hindu festival Navrati in Kali devi temple . Navratri comes twice in a Year in which nine form of Goddess are worship . It is celebrated mainly in North India .Credit: Alamy
Bave Wali Mata Mandir doesn't see quite so many visitors, but the city-side temple is jam-packed and we join hundreds of joyous Hindus in line, not really sure what to expect, making the chance visit all the more exciting.
Kashmir and Jammu are a little stricter on security than most other Indian states, but even knowing this beforehand we are still surprised at the number of security measures employed. Temple attendees are not permitted to take anything inside and we are obligated to leave behind bags, cameras and shoes with a shady-looking chap who promises he's manning the safest locker room in the city. Everyone else is leaving their possessions with him without so much as a glance back, so we make like the locals do and just go with the flow.
The "flow" is then split up into two lines – one for men and one for women – and we each endure four extensive body searches before finally moving into the temple grounds.
The Bahu Fort is located in Jammu in the Indian state of Jammu and Kashmir Bahu Fort. Credit: iStock
Inside it's another world – the one you perhaps envisage having never been to India. It's a whirlwind of colours – candy pinks, fiery oranges, bright yellows – all singing, chanting, moving and munching.
We notice a group of women seated cross-legged on the ground singing and clapping as two individuals twirl their dreadlocked heads over and over, speeding up as the clapping accelerates. Mesmerised by the unusual spectacle we don't realise that we too start moving our heads, lost in the beat of the unknown and dancing with people we don't know. Bliss.
TRIP NOTES
MORE INFORMATION
GETTING THERE
Air India is the only carrier in Australia flying direct between the two countries. Fly from Sydney and Melbourne to Delhi direct and then onto Jammu. See airindia.in or call 1800 247 463.
SEE + DO
It's recommend tourists travel to Jammu with a tour company and Pure India Collection is the ultimate in enriching and unique luxury travel experiences. Itineraries are fully customised and include accommodation, activities, guides, drivers and transfers. See pureindiacollection.com.au or call 1300 365 060.
STAYING THERE
The 50-room Hotel Jehlum Resort offers travellers a convenient central location, as well as access to wifi, a swimming pool and a gymnasium. The staff on site are always happy to help. See jehlumresortjammu.com.
Tatyana Leonov was a guest of Pure India Collection and Air India.
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