Life aquatic ... Daydream Island hosts free water sports.
There's something for everyone in the Whitsundays, writes Mark Chipperfield.
Fancy a trip to the Cumberland Islands? Somehow Captain Cook's original name for this chain of 74 tropical islands doesn't have the evocative ring of "the Whitsundays".
The region has become a byword for stylish resort holidays and well-mannered sailing adventures. Lonely Planet once called the Whitsunday Coast "Australia's Tahiti" and the comparison is understandable. Both regions have a laid-back South Sea islands-style charm and a flawless physical beauty, with emerald-green islands, coral cays and perfect white beaches.
The Whitsundays are, of course, not one destination but several quite different experiences: the hedonistic pleasures of resort life, the cosmopolitan buzz along Airlie Beach, the thrill of skippering your own yacht or the simplicity of camping on an uninhabited island.
Whatever type of holiday you're looking for - from sporty to foodie, eco-friendly to kid-friendly - there's a pretty good chance it can be found in this Queensland region. Here are six standout destinations.
Fly in and flop
Qualia
Staff at this Hamilton Island resort work awfully hard to help keep guests chilled out. As with ducks on a pond, staff seem to effortlessly glide about the place while paddling relentlessly below the surface.
That, essentially, is the secret of island owner Bob Oatley's tropical pleasure dome: great people. Sure, the luxury guest pavilions, ocean views and lush gardens are breathtaking, as is the spa, with its indigenous-themed therapies. But the staff add a level of service that makes each guest feel ridiculously pampered and indulged.
With the region's major airport just down the road, it's hardly surprising that Qualia has become the default choice for stressed-out Sydneysiders and Melburnians. This is an adults-only resort - children under 16 are not permitted - and the sense of tranquillity is boosted by the use of whisper-quiet electric golf buggies, one for each guest room.
Your biggest decision here might be choosing a main course from executive chef Jane-Therese Mulry's superb dinner menu. Although Qualia offers a suite of outdoor activities, fitness classes and excursions (scuba diving, sailing and golf are available), I suspect many guests find an excuse to stay within the resort itself; even leaving your private pavilion can be a struggle. In response, Qualia has experiences specifically targeted at lovesick couples, such as sunset cruises and picnics on remote beaches.
Leeward Pavilion from $950 a night (double, low season); Windward Pavilion from $1500 a night (double, low season). Breakfast included. Phone 1300 780 959, see qualia.com.au. Flights from Melbourne and Sydney land at the Great Barrier Reef Airport on Hamilton Island.
Water sports and culinary adventures
Hayman Island
Once regarded as the grand old dame of the Whitsundays - the original Royal Hayman Hotel opened in the 1950s - Hayman is undergoing a makeover. The first fruits of this multimillion-dollar project are eight new poolside villas designed by architect Kerry Hill.
Hayman's public spaces, including the iconic pool area, have been upgraded, a new-look spa opened and the resort's range of seaplane reef tours has been expanded. All 210 guest rooms have been refreshed. On the food front, in addition to five restaurants, guests can join the Chef's Table, take a cooking masterclass at the culinary academy or enjoy a gourmet picnic anywhere on the island. The resort has a wellness program, too.
Hayman has always been a magnet for sporty types, from game fishing and golf to waterskiing and kayaking. Hayman's Great Barrier Reef water sport facilities are without peer: a fleet of custom-made dive boats, speedboats, ocean cruisers and a semi-submersible for underwater viewing.
The diving and snorkelling centre has PADI-accredited introductory and refresher courses plus adventures for experienced scuba divers.
Pool Room Queen from $590 a night (double); Retreat Room King from $670 a night (double); Beach Villas from $1590 a night. Breakfast included. Tariffs based on a three-night booking. Nearest airport is Hamilton Island, with launch, helicopter or seaplane transfer. Phone (07) 4940 1838, see hayman.com.au.
Sailing and yacht charter
Airlie Beach and Hamilton Island
Sailing is synonymous with the Whitsundays. The Audi Hamilton Island Race Week in August is one of the biggest events on the Australian sailing calendar. But you don't need to be a master mariner to explore the area. Several companies offer charter packages for both the solo sailor, known as "bareboat" charter, and the landlubber who prefers to hire a skipper.
Apart from the safety aspect, professional skippers also bring expert knowledge of reefs and moorings, meaning more time for relaxation, swimming and snorkelling. Among the best charter companies are Queensland Yacht Charters, Whitsunday Escape and Sunsail. Charter vessels are available at either Airlie Beach or Hamilton Island. Choose from a traditional yacht, a catamaran or a power cruiser. Rates start at about $400 a night (low season) for a Catalina 320 MKII - a classic 9.9-metre cabin cruiser that can sleep up to four people.
While no formal sailing qualifications are required for bareboat charters, companies will vet your application. Prospective skippers are taken through a pre-charter briefing. If you need to refresh your skills, tutorials are available. Charter firms will provision your vessel on request. Additional costs include insurance, fuel and reef taxes.
Sunsail (1800 803 988, sunsail.com.au) on Hamilton Island has a fleet of yachts and catamarans. Whitsunday Escape (1800 075 145, whitsundayescape.com) has 32 vessels for hire and is based at Airlie Beach. Queensland Yacht Charters (07 4946 7400, yachtcharters.com.au) has Bavaria, Catalina and Beneteau yachts and is based at both Airlie Beach and Hamilton Island.
Back to nature
South Molle and Planton islands
The region is not all about plunge pools and yachts. The majority of islands, part of the Great Barrier Reef World Heritage Area, are uninhabited. Of these, 32 have camping facilities provided by the Queensland Parks and Wildlife Service. Overnight fees start from $10.60 a double. One of the most accessible is South Molle Island, which has two campsites: Paddle Bay and Sandy Bay. The island has 15 kilometres of graded walking tracks, good beaches and snorkelling.
Nearby Planton Island offers a real back-to-nature experience, with space for just four campers. Boat transfers to both islands can be organised at either Shute Harbour or Abel Point Marina in Airlie Beach. Kayak hire is also available. Remember to bring plenty of food and fresh water, a gas or liquid stove and garbage bags - campers must take their rubbish with them. Permits are compulsory and can be bought from the QPWS office at Shute Harbour.
QPWS has links on its website to help campers organise transfers, as well as advice on what to take, where to camp, tracks to use, fishing and boating. Phone 13 74 68, see derm.qld.gov.au/parks.
Specialist travel outfit Scamper (07 4946 6285, whitsundaycamping.com.au) at Airlie Beach has a water taxi service to islands including South Molle and Planton. Fares from $65 a person, return. The company also hires out camping equipment. The nearest airport is Whitsunday Coast Airport at Proserpine.
Family-friendly stays
Daydream Island
Most of the region's affordable family accommodation is found on the Whitsunday Coast. The exception is Daydream Island, one of Queensland's most laid-back resorts. Apart from being an easy resort to reach (it's a short boat ride from Airlie Beach or Hamilton Island), Daydream Island Resort and Spa is being upgraded and has attractions to suit all age groups.
Its award-winning Living Reef is a private lagoon stocked with bamboo sharks, barramundi, cod, bream, parrotfish and 50 types of coral. A highlight is the daily stingray feeding session. The kids' club has activities for children aged one to 12. A good babysitting service is also available. Rainforest walks, aqua aerobics, beach volleyball, bocce and a host of free water sports is available for adults and the spa is one of the best-equipped in Queensland. Daydream makes an ideal base for reef dive trips, too, from snorkelling expeditions and glass-bottom boating to helicopter tours. The resort has six restaurants and bars, with menus geared to bistro-style fare.
Rates for 2012 include a Garden Balcony room from $449 a person, twin share, minimum three-night stay, with buffet breakfast daily; $581 in an Ocean Balcony room; $650 in a Coral Ocean Balcony. Phone (07) 4948 8426, see daydreamisland.com. Return launch transfers, available from Abel Point Marina, are $60 for adults, $40 for children aged four to 14.
Romantic interludes
Airlie Beach
If the phrase "couples only" gladdens your heart then a sumptuous boutique property overlooking the Coral Sea might be just the ticket. Comprising just one suite and three penthouses, Waterfront Whitsundays in Airlie Beach has established itself as a premier romantic hideaway on this part of the coast.
Each room is decorated in the tropical Queensland style. Most have balconies, a rain shower, separate lounge, dining and kitchen areas, entertainment systems and free wi-fi. Despite its proximity to both Airlie Beach Village, Abel Point Marina and, of course, the beach, the property offers a high level of privacy, a swimming pool, guest barbecue and a private garden. It is a convenient base for reef snorkelling or sailing trips, a picnic on Whitehaven Beach or a relaxed meal at nearby cafes. The resident concierge is on hand to help with tour arrangements. If you have 28 friends, you can book the entire property for a week.
Waterfront Whitsundays, 438 Shute Harbour Road, Airlie Beach. The Spa Suite costs from $275 a night for two people; the three-bedroom penthouse costs from $450. Phone (07) 4948 6500, see waterfrontwhitsunday.com.au. The nearest airport is Proserpine; limousine airport transfers cost from $60.
Mark Chipperfield travelled courtesy of Qualia and Hamilton Island.
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