This was published 14 years ago
Lindenderry at Red Hill review: Dinner plans go awry
Charm and grace on the outside ... the manicured grounds of Lindenderry.
Mary O'Brien's perfect country getaway comes unstuck at the restaurant.
Lindenderry is a good choice for a romantic weekend. Nestled among the rolling vines of Red Hill, the boutique hotel offers wine tasting, an attractive restaurant and a plethora of spa treatments — everything a couple in search of romance could wish for.
The grounds of Lindenderry are beautiful. Every plant, flower and bush looks like it has just had the best haircut. Once we check in and are given directions by the friendly receptionist, we stroll around the gardens.
Our first stop is the cellar door to taste some wines. It is a small rustic cabin with a few tables inside and out. If we had arrived earlier we might have ordered a platter of cheese but nevertheless it is great to relax and taste a few wines without having to worry about driving. We try our best to sound knowledgeable after each tasting.
We call it quits after four tastings and decide to have a pinot gris with dinner.
Knowing how crazy the Mornington Peninsula can be in January (having previously been caught out on a weekend away with nowhere to dine), I had booked a table for two a week earlier. I confirmed our table before our wine tasting and so I head up to the Linden Tree Restaurant confident that everything is under control. However, I am wrong.
As we arrive at the restaurant we notice that it seems very busy. Yes, the unthinkable has happened: our table has been given away. After much confusion and talking to three different staff, it seems our name is clearly on the list for 7.15 but no table has been kept. We are told an unusual number of diners has just walked in. I am annoyed but we are temporarily shown to the sole empty table for four in the centre of the dining room by an apologetic waiter. A few minutes later another waiter arrives with entrees — but we haven't even ordered yet.
It is a slow night. It takes a long time to order and longer to get our food. Service is disappointing; the food is good but overpriced. Our bottle of wine has no label, a bit surprising when paying $40 for it. Luckily we are moved to a lovely table overlooking the vineyard.
The hotel has great charm and is impeccably kept. There are five lounges, where you can relax, read and have coffee. In winter, the fireplaces must be very cosy. The wall hangings and fine furnishings lend an air of luxury. Conscious of our budget, we have booked into a courtyard room, the cheapest accommodation available. The room is small and simply but sparsely furnished with a queen bed, two side tables, a built-in desk with chair, an armchair and modest (by today's standards) LCD television.
We have a view of the sunken garden through a floor-to-ceiling window. The beautiful fabrics give the simple room an inviting air of yesteryear.
For those who want a bit of pampering, the Endota spa has a range of treatments, many for couples. The small, pretty indoor pool overlooks the gardens and there is also a sauna. You can play table tennis and billiards in the games room or tennis and volleyball outdoors.
The next morning it is nice to have a newspaper waiting at our door. However, breakfast in the Linden Tree Restaurant is disappointing. There are the usual cereals, four bains-marie of food and a nice plate of fresh fruit.
Unfortunately, things are not topped up as quickly as they should be. It is more like breakfast in a chain hotel than a country getaway.
We do feel rested and relaxed as we check out and, as the guest in front of us says, "What a pity we're not staying another night." The setting is magnificent and the hotel beautifully furnished but the restaurant needs to lift its game.
VISITORS' BOOK
Lindenderry at Red Hill
Address 142 Arthurs Seat Road, Red Hill.
Bookings 5989 2933, info@lindenderry.com.au.
Getting there Red Hill is about an hour's drive from Melbourne. Exit the Mornington Peninsula Freeway on to Mornington-Flinders Road, turn left into White Hill Road. Take a left on to Arthurs Seat Road and drive for a kilometre. Lindenderry is on the left.
Price A courtyard room is $290.95, including breakfast, through wotif.com. Also check out lindenderry.com.au for online deals.
Summary Understated luxury among the vines. Enjoy the setting and ambience but don't expect too much from the restaurant.
Verdict 16
The score: 19-20 excellent; 17-18 great; 15-16 good; 13-14 comfortable.
All weekends away are conducted anonymously and paid for by Traveller.
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