Rite of passage ... Regensburg and the Steinerne Brucke bridge.

Ebb and flow of civilisation

Cathrin Schaer absorbs the folklore of central Europe as she floats through five countries and centuries of history.

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Quirky ... a "room" in the Pixel Hotel.

Caravans and cutting edge

Patrick Barkham checks into a Linz garage and discovers the creative heart of this year's European culture capital.

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