Malaga, Spain, travel guide and things to do: Nine highlights

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Malaga, Spain, travel guide and things to do: Nine highlights

By David Whitley
Malaga has reinvented itself as one of Europe's art hotspots.

Malaga has reinvented itself as one of Europe's art hotspots.Credit: iStock

THE ONE MUSEUM

For many Europeans, Malaga is the gateway to fun in the sun holidays on the Costa Del Sol. But this history-sprinkled Andalusian port city has reinvented itself as one of the Continent's art hotspots.There are hundreds of Picasso works on display at the Museo Picasso, although you don't really visit to see particular artworks. The masterpieces are on display elsewhere around the world. What the Museo Picasso does brilliantly is to show how Picasso's styles and inspirations changed over the decades. The paintings and sculptures are displayed alongside biographical detail of the world's first celebrity artist's political evolution and philandering. See museumpicassomalaga.org

THE ONE PARK

Built during the Arab occupation of Malaga, the Alcazaba was the rulers' citadel.

Built during the Arab occupation of Malaga, the Alcazaba was the rulers' citadel.

Think you know your palm trees? Well, the Paseo del Parque is about to prove that knowledge hopelessly inadequate. This grand park runs parallel to the waterfront, and feels purpose-built for showy strutting. But the paths are lined with hundreds of different palm trees, sourced from around the world to illustrate the sheer variety available.

THE ONE VIEW

The Castillo de Gibralfaro is a semi-ruined castle with an utterly forgettable military museum inside it. But who cares when it offers such imperious views out over the city, port and coast? The Moorish-built castle is more than 1000 years old, and sits atop the mountains that provide a protective ring around the city. If you want those views to feel well-earned, walk up via the snaking path from the city centre. See alcazabaygibralfaro.malaga.eu

THE ONE HOTEL

Next to the castle, the Parador de Malaga is a deliciously handsome stone building. The views from the verandah-style balconies take in the Mediterranean, while the rooftop pool is arguably the city's most photogenic hangout. Inside, the look keeps aspects of Andalucian tradition alive, most notably in the terracotta-tiled floors. Doubles from €170. See parador.es

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THE ONE NEIGHBOURHOOD

Not so long ago, Soho to the west of the city centre was a fairly grim hub of scruffy office blocks. But a blizzard of street art, an influx of cafes and a peppering of cultural institutions have turned Soho into the coolest part of Malaga. The centrepiece, however, is the Teatro del Soho, a theatre opened by Antonio Banderas in a bid to give something back to his home city. See teatrodelsoho.com

THE ONE MEAL

Mamuchi's on Calle Casa de Campos sums up the "anything goes" vibe of Soho perfectly. It is covered in kitsch decoration and ornamentation from all over the world, nothing matches, and the menu is rampantly non-conformist, taking in dishes from pretty much everywhere. Realistically, this should be a horrific flop, but the chefs know what they're doing, so a ceviche followed by a beef rendang ends up being surprisingly delicious.

THE ONE BEACH

There are much better quality beaches further along the Costa del Sol. But La Malagueta is the city's much-loved main beach, with cafes and expensive apartments behind it. This is very much a people-watching beach, where people come to show off sculpted bodies among the public art installations or on the volleyball courts.

THE ONE FORTRESS

Built during the Arab occupation of Malaga, the Alcazaba was the rulers' citadel. It's now reached via a lift dug into the hillside, and once there, it's a highly engaging maze of rooms once used for storing weapons, orange tree-dotted courtyards, and fountain-centred gardens. Think of it as a warm-up act for the better-known Alhambra in Granada. See alcazabamalaga.com

THE ONE BAR

If you're wanting chic, contemporary decor and cocktails served at the table, then Antigua Casa de Guardia is absolutely the wrong place for you. Supposedly Malaga's oldest bar, this rambunctiously old-fashioned joint is standing room only, while wine is poured straight from the barrels and tabs are marked in chalk on the bar. See antiguacasadeguardia.com

ONE MORE THING

Now, about those wines … once upon a time, Malaga had a reputation for producing some of the finest wines on earth. Tastes have changed a lot since, meaning Malaga sweet wines don't get a lot of attention. But they suit the climate, and you can get a surprisingly informative education about the history and micro-regional differences at the tiny Museo del Vino. See museodelvinomalaga.com

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Traveller.com.au/spain

visitcostadelsol.com

David Whitley was a guest of Visit Costa del Sol.

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