Marching into no-man's land

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This was published 13 years ago

Marching into no-man's land

Stark reminders ... bronze statues at the war memorial.

Stark reminders ... bronze statues at the war memorial.Credit: AFP

The strip of land between North and South Korea is a sensitive as ever but John Burfitt discovers it's not all machine guns and barbed wire.

TO THE generation that grew up watching TV in the 1970s and '80s, the Korean War means just one thing: the setting for the iconic series M*A*S*H. The exploits of the medical team of 4077th kept the dark comedy bubbling far longer than the three-year Korean conflict.

The war was nothing to laugh about in my family, however. Any talk of it usually included a proud mention of the exploits of a favourite uncle and decorated pilot, Flying Officer Richard Turner, who flew missions over North Korea.

After his return home, he often rallied the clan into the car for days at the beach.

He died in 2005 but he is very much on my mind as I spot the Australian flag flying in the sprawling forecourt that leads to the War Memorial of Korea in Seoul. The flag is part of an honour guard to the countries that took part in the United Nations force defending South Korea from invasion by the North. This year marks the 60th anniversary of that war.

For many, the Korean War is the "forgotten war". Vietnam, Gallipoli and the Pacific battles during World War II take priority in the Australian consciousness. But not for the families of 17,000 Australians who took part in the combined UN force. During the years of fighting, 339 Australians were killed and 1216 were wounded.

The South Koreans have not forgotten. Stepping into the grand central exhibition halls of the museum's second floor is where this building gets busy and crowded. The saga of the war unfolds on the walls, telling of a surprise attack on June 25, 1950, by North Korea, which saw Communist forces charge south across the border. Within months, the North had captured Seoul and 90 per cent of the Korean Peninsula was occupied.

A United Nations force of 21 countries was formed and a counterattack launched. After three years of fighting, a ceasefire was declared on July 27, 1953. The split of the two Korean nations along the 38th parallel has been in place ever since - the final front line of the old Cold War.

One exhibition is dedicated to UN forces. A sculpture called The Drop hangs in the middle of the room, packing an emotional punch. It's in the shape of a giant teardrop, made of 1300 identification "dog tags" belonging to soldiers who died.

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Each participating country is honoured with an exhibition dedicated to its combatants. In the Australian section, a mannequin dressed as an Australian soldier is surrounded by photos of Diggers; a bible belonging to one of the fallen sits at the feet of the figure.

Looking around the museum, I see Dutch speakers and Canadians.

The next day, I venture to where the action began and finished - the Demilitarised Zone (DMZ), four kilometres of land separating North Korea from South Korea. A Korean guide had informed me the zone is a source of great shame, because Korea is not unified. Economically, however, there is no shame about it - the zone is the No. 1 tourist attraction in the country. Ferris wheels in an amusement fair exist alongside machinegun-clad soldiers checking passports amid fences of barbed wire.

First stop on a tour through the no-man's land of the DMZ is the Third Tunnel, an invasion route built by the North Koreans discovered by the South in 1978. The tunnel is said to be big enough to have allowed 30,000 North Korean soldiers to invade the South within an hour. The claim beggars belief as I stoop the entire way through the low chasm and the narrowness means it's strictly single file.

Above ground is the Dora Observatory, the northernmost observation point of the South, looking directly into North Korea. This is where the guards are busiest, yelling at visitors not to take photos beyond a safety line. Doing so, they explain, could be considered an act of aggression. Since these soldiers are armed, no one is about to argue, even though the lenses of coin-operated telescopes must surely give a glint to the watchful North. The last stop on the DMZ is the Dorasan railway station, the end of the rail link from Seoul - its unused rail lines north now covered in thick weeds.

Hopes for the two halves of the Korean peninsula to reunite seem as far away as they ever were, given the recent Cheonan sinking incident, and while the War Memorial is a rich step back in history, the DMZ is the reality of today.

Uncle Dick returned to Korea as a member of the 50th anniversary Australian commemorative mission. I only wish I had a chance to ask him how he felt about it.

Trip notes

Getting there

Korean Air flies from Sydney to Seoul priced from $1887. (02) 9262 6000, koreanair.com. Japan Airlines flies to Seoul priced from $1858. 1300 525 287, au.jal.com.

Staying there

Apartments at Fraser Suites, in central Seoul are priced from $130-$230 (two bedrooms) a night. +82 2 2220 8888, fraserplace.co.kr.

Touring there

The War Memorial of Korea is a five-minute walk from the Samgakji Station on lines No. 4 and No. 6 (Exit No. 12). The Seoul City Tour Bus also stops there (seoulcitybus .com). The museum is open from 9am to 6pm Tuesday to Sunday. Closed Mondays. Entry is free. +82 2 709 3139, warmemo.or.kr.

Lotte Travel does day tours to the DMZ as part of tours from Sydney to Korea. (02) 9299 5500, lottetravel.com.au; so does Wendy Wu Tours (02) 9224 8888, wendywutours.com.au. For day tours from Seoul, see visitkorea.or.kr.

Further information

(02) 9251 1717, visitkorea.or.kr.

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