When it comes to people-watching, there are few places that match the Szechenyi Furdo baths.Credit: Holger Leue/Lonely Planet
It's not every day I find myself surrounded by near-naked men playing chess. Standing in huddled groups, they ponder their next moves while standing waist-deep in steaming water.
Beside me, the oldest man strokes his beard. There's a quick smile as his fingers hover above the pieces. Moving his knight a few squares over, he stands back, arms folded, his face a mask of defiance.
His opponent soon spots his mistake. Smacking his forehead with mock reproach, he shakes his head in disgust, a cluster of gold chains dangling just a few inches above his tanned gut.
A few moves later and it's all over. The board is cleared and the scene becomes a blur of handshakes, smiles, jewellery and Speedos.
When it comes to people-watching, there are few places in the world to rival Budapest's famous Szechenyi Furdo bathhouse. Built in 1908, it's a favourite with locals and travellers alike, thanks largely to the expansive outdoor pools that are open year-round.
Having beat the city streets all day, the piping 40-degree water feels magic as I wade beyond the steps towards the centre of the pool. The sky is just turning dark as I weave beyond groups chatting amid clouds of steam. Finding a secluded spot, I kick back to enjoy the show.
Before me, a trio of men rehearse lines from a play. Each of them clutches pages from a script, the paper held high above the water's steaming surface.
Beside me a couple sit smooching, seemingly oblivious to those around them. Outside the pool, a hairy man in a towel sips beer from a plastic cup, his face a picture of contentment as he stares towards the night sky.
After a hard day's work, it's hard to imagine a better place to come to unwind. Although the pool is packed with people, the atmosphere here is quite mellow.
Indoors, I gain some respite from the crowd. Murmured conversations echo around tall, arched ceilings while steaming pools and saunas beckon from all directions.
There's a faint smell of eucalyptus coming from somewhere.
I spend a while darting between the room's hottest bath and the torture of the freezing plunge pool. It's a process guaranteed to leave your whole body prickling like fire.
There's even a whirlpool, where a powerful current whips you around like a carnival ride. Let's face it; you're never too old.
Back outside, hundreds gather beneath the stars, chatting, drinking beer and frolicking beside the impressive baroque exterior of the main building. I brave the chilly night air, trying hard to look resilient while padding back towards the warmth of the water.
My skin is wrinkled like a melted candle but I can't bring myself to leave. Sprawled across a chaise longue, the man in the towel is pouring himself another beer. Suddenly I'm pretty thirsty. Now just where is the bar.
Sign up for the Traveller Deals newsletter
Get exclusive travel deals delivered straight to your inbox. Sign up now.