Meet the nicer neighbours

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This was published 14 years ago

Meet the nicer neighbours

Back in Bruns ... casting a line.

Back in Bruns ... casting a line.Credit: Lee Atkinson

It's a common misconception that if you want the quintessential beach holiday on the Far North Coast of NSW the best place to head to is Byron Bay. That might have been true a decade or two ago but, sadly, Byron has been loved to death, losing much of its original charm in the process. If you're looking for a good old-fashioned beach holiday, just like Byron used to be, take a 15-minute drive to the north to Brunswick Heads.

Bruns, as the locals call it, is everything that nearby Byron Bay is not - or at least not any more - and all the better for it. You won't find traffic jams in Brunswick Heads, nor will you find chain stores, parking meters or tripped-out drop-outs begging for your spare change - you'll need to go to Byron Bay for that.

Just like Byron Bay, you will find some great surfing beaches as well as gorgeous coastal scenery, some fantastic restaurants and cafes and even a couple of places where you can get your tea leaves read or your fortune told.

Brunswick Heads has plenty that Byron doesn't - like a broad river running through the heart of town that's perfect for fishing, kayaking and toddler-friendly splashing about. And plenty of things that Byron Bay used to have in abundance but has since lost - a genuine, laid-back, come-as-you-are, we're-all-equal-in-Speedos kind of holiday vibe, where the pub is still the town's meeting place, the caravan parks have the best views and the bike-hire people don't mind if you bring their bike back late as long as you let them know.

A holiday in Bruns is all about the simple pleasures, something the local chamber of commerce has cottoned on to, appropriating the concept as its tourism slogan.

Even our accommodation is about the simple things - we're in a cabin in the caravan park and yes, it does have some of the best views in town, right on the riverfront and only two blocks from the centre of the village.

It's the type of place where children can ride their bikes anywhere they want with new-found friends, old blokes chat with fishing buddies as they cast a line into the river from a fold-up chair, mothers and toddlers paddle in the shallows as a tinny or two drifts by and teenagers completely ignore the "no diving from the bridge" signs to see who can make the biggest splash.

It's totally pretension-free and it takes all of about 6½ minutes to start relaxing into the slow but steady pace of the place.

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When not paddling a hired kayak on the river, swimming or walking along the beach, or simply reading a book in the shade of a flowering poinciana tree, we explore the surrounding hills and valleys, driving a loop through the hinterland south to Ballina and back up the coast road.

We browse the farmers' markets and eclectic string of homeware stores in Bangalow, where you can pick up anything from organic strawberries to a handmade, red leather, Hindi-style kangaroo money box (yes, that's mine) and kitsch Mao memorabilia.

We linger over a long lunch at the Harvest Cafe, a fabulous foodie find in a converted bakery in the tiny hamlet of Newrybar. Apart from the cafe, there's a couple of antique shops (one of which proudly declares that it has "dead people's stuff on sale" on a blackboard out the front) and not much else.

We walk it off on a boardwalk that winds through the rainforest on the outskirts of Alstonville and then take the coast road back to Bruns via Byron Bay, just to double-check we're not missing out on anything.

We have a great coffee with a view at the Byron Beach Cafe, a nice walk around the lighthouse and out to the most easterly point on the Australian mainland.

Back in Bruns we regain our we're-on-holiday-and-we're-chilled-out vibe in the beer garden at the Hotel Brunswick. For less than $20 I tuck into the biggest plate of beer-battered fish and chips I've ever had, while a guitarist belts out classic 1980s hits from the makeshift stage in the corner.

Byron Bay might only be 15 minutes away but from where we're sitting, it could be light years.

TRIP NOTES

GETTING THERE

Brunswick Heads is 18 kilometres north of Byron Bay and about 50 kilometres south of Gold Coast airport. Fly Jetstar, Virgin Blue or Tiger Airways to the Gold Coast, or Jetstar, Virgin Blue or Rex to Ballina.

WHERE TO STAY

Self-contained, air-conditioned cabins at Massey Greene Caravan Park costs from $110 a couple a night midweek but rates are higher on weekends and during peak holiday season. Phone (02) 6685 1329, see masseygreene.com.au.

MORE INFORMATION

See brunswickheads.org.au or riversoflife.com.au.

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