Exploring Historic Milton - this tour moves from the south to the north.
Melrose Farm
The first houses in the district consisted of a sapling framework with strips of dried bark for covering. As families developed (until 1850 there was only one white woman living at Ulladulla Harbour) larger slab houses were erected consisting of round timber corner poles, slabs of timber for the walls and wooden shingles on the roof. An example is the slab cabin on 'Melrose Farm' in Milton. Turn east off the highway at Croobyar Road then take the first left into Garads Lane and the next right.
Springfield
On the western side of the highway,about half-way between Ulladulla and Milton, is 'Springfield', an attractive 11-roomed house with elaborate iron lacework about the verandah. Considered distinct in its architectural features it was built in the 1860s by Ephraim Mison, who owned a timber mill above the wharf at Ulladulla.
Angel Rose Restaurant
On the corner of the highway and Croobyar Road are two buildings of historic note: to the right is Colleen English Candlemaker's Cottage, thought to be one of the oldest structures in the area; to the left is the Angel Rose Restaurant, a large, two-storey structure that was originally a substantial store (c. 1887). The balcony was added at a later date.
Melrose and the Lighthouse Keeper's Cottage
Continue along the highway. A road soon branches off to the right. The southern corner is the site of 'Melrose', originally a farm belonging to the Kendalls. The next crossroad is Gordon St and on the southeastern corner is another attractive building, the old lighthouse keeper's cottage. In the 1920s it was dismantled and removed by bullock cart from Warden Head when the lighthouse was mechanised.
The Cottage
Cross Gordon St and halfway along the next block, to your left, is 'Coolooli' and 'The Cottage', currently Milton Medical Centre, built in the 1870s with typically high ceilings. The old pump still stands over the well at the back of 'The Cottage'.
Anglican Church of St Peter and St Paul
The next crossroad is Church St and, appropriately, on the south-western corner is The Anglican Church of St Peter and St Paul. Of a Gothic style it was completed in 1860, although it was not consecrated for many years owing to debts. The foundation stone was laid by John Kendall (the Reverend's son). It has been argued that the Chinese Elm Tree on the grounds is the oldest in Australia, being planted by Alice Kendall when she returned from missionary work in China in 1920.
The Settlement
Further along the highway, on your left, is 'The Settlement', established as the Post Office Stores in 1860. They were purchased by John Kendall in 1874 and run by his son-in-law, Henry Carrington Blackburn. After Kendall died Blackburn erected the present building, 'The Popular' Store (1898), at the time one of the largest stores on the south coast. The building is still owned by his descendants. The Settlement Courtyard, with its specialty shops, now occupies the space where the original storeroom and stock feed barn were located. An Arts & Crafts Market is held in The Settlement Arcade on the first Saturday morning of the month.
Milton's Public Buildings
Cross Wason St and there are a group of public buildings which contribute to the streetscape. The post office (1880), extended in 1894 and 1904, was originally a single-storey structure. Beside it are the police station and the somewhat unusual, asymmetrical court house (some sources date it at 1877, others from the 1890s) with turned timber columns. Opposite is the old town hall building (1871) with its intersting facade of quoins, now the library. Next to it are a courtyard, where a public mural of Milton and its environs can be seen, and the Milton Cultural Centre.
Methodist Manse
At the next crossroad the highway heads north to Nowra and, to your right, Thomas St bends back in an easterly direction. In the crook between the two is the Wesleyan Methodist manse. The building was a gift to the church from ex-convict made good, Henry Claydon. The church later sold the building as they thought it too ostentatious to fit comfortably with their ascetic values. The triangular plot to the west of the house contains some graves, one of which belongs to Joseph Whatman, the first settler on the site of Milton. The rear balcony was used for binocular surveillance of the coast in World War II.
Northern end of Milton
On the other side of the highway is 'Times Past' bed and beakfast. Built about 1890 this was originally the homestead of a dairy farm which supplied the local township. Adjacent is Mick Ryan Park where there is a 120-year-old fig tree.
Walk a short distance along Thomas St and, to your left, is the public school which opened in 1878. It is still in use and the residence (1877) is extant. Head back along Thomas St the way you came as it crosses the highway and becomes Myrtle St. At the end of this road turn left into Croobyar Road. On your right, just before Wason St, is the Wesleyan Church. The present stone structure (1883) replaced an earlier timber kirk. It is now a private residence. Opposite is an attractive building that currently houses Turnbull's Antiques.
Take the first left again into Wason St, which has a number of quaint houses. To the right, near the first corner, is the Old Milton Studio (1875), the original Roman Catholic Chapel. On the same side of the road, at the corner itself, is 'The King House' (c.1875), the present home of Legacy.
Harry McLaren's Folk Museum
Turn right into Charles St, take the first right into Church and the first left into Wolseley and to your immediate right, at number ten, is Harry McLaren's Folk Museum, with an interesting private collection carriages, buggies, furniture, costumes, tools, books, bric-a-brac and other antiques and memorabilia, which is open to the public whenever the owner is home (02 4455 2058).
Uniting Church buildings
Further along are the Uniting Church manse (1875), doubling as a school from 1899-1908, and the Church itself, built in 1872 as the Congregational Church. Gothic in its architectural style it is decorated with quoins, cathedral glass windows and facings of hewn stone.
The Cambage Houses
Turn right into Gordon St (have a look at no. 60 - built 1880) then right again back into Croobyar Road. Take the first left into Wilfords Lane. To the left as the road bends to the right is 'Pine View', built by Prosper Cambage for his bride in the 1890s. His father, John Fisher Cambage arrived in Sydney in 1835 to serve seven years for housebreaking. He was stranded on-shore in Ulladulla two years later when a favourable wind prompted those aboard his vessel to put out to sea. It was Cambage's second wife who, aged 17, was the first white woman to live at Ulladulla Harbour. They had to ride 80 miles to be married as the nearest clergyman was at Braidwood.
John Cambage had master mason, James Poole, built him the cottage of 'Applegarth' in 1868. It is a little further along Wilfords Lane and off to the right. James Poole came to the area in 1865 to work on the stone pier at Ulladulla but stayed to design and build a number of private and public buildings. The house is supposedly haunted by Cambage's son Henry.
James Poole also built the school which is located further along Wilfords Lane, to the right. The building, opened in 1880, became a private residence in 1899. The 'Riverview' homestead is further along the lane, to the left, and 'Loch Leven' at the end of the road, to the right.
In the District
1. Kendall Dale
The farmland around Milton has a number of homesteads which predate any of the urban dwellings. The best known is 'Kendall Dale', the home of Thomas Kendall. Located on a creek on the flats north of Milton it is still occupied by a descendant. The original timber house burned down but his son John built what is now the rear half of the homestead in 1848. On the outer wall of the courtyard is the original kitchen, complete with baker's oven and maid's room.
2. Kermington
To the west of 'Kendall Dale' is 'Kermington'. The simple farmhouse of Kendall's son Edward it is situated on a hill overlooking the countryside. It was on this property that Henry Kendall was born and a monolith marks the site of the slab hut where the birth occurred. It is considered the oldest homestead in the area.
3. Some James Poole houses
Across the highway, to the south-east, is 'Boolgatta House', designed and built by Poole. The original owner was one of the two Warden Brothers, James. On the same side of the highway but closer to Milton are 'Narrawilly' (built in the 1870s by John Miller,who struck it rich in the Bendigo goldrush, and occupied by his great great grandson) and 'Whoppindally' (1866), again erected by Poole, this time for another Kendall (Thomas). While in the area James Poole also worked on 'Airlie House' and 'Applegarth'. The former is a two-storey mansion built by David Warden in 1868. It is situated to the west of Woodstock Road, about 2 km out of Milton. It has an attractive stone gatehouse at the entrance to the long driveway.
4. Lake Conjola
To the north of Milton-Ulladulla is Lake Conjola. The name is thought to derive from the Aboriginal word 'Kongoola', the name of a fish from the creeks where the local tribe camped. The first permanent settlers had arrived by 1847. The lake offers boating (there is a boat ramp), sailing, waterskiing and safe swimming. Sailboards, power boats, canoes, surf skis and rowboats are available for hire from the post office and general store in Carroll Ave (02 4456 1163). Conjola Boat Hire has fishing boats in the school holidays (02 4456 1563). Bream, flathead, whiting, tailor, and blackfish are to be found in abundance and beach fishing in the area is also popular. There are also good locations for diving and spear fishing. Access is via Lake Conjola Entrance Road which leaves the Princes Highway 6 km north of Milton.
5. Pointers Gap
If you continue along the highway another 1.4 km a scenic drive commences at the turnoff to the left into Pointers Gap Road. It is 9 km to Pointers Gap itself at the top of the escarpment. Here a signpost directs you to Rotary Lookout along a short track to the left, a popular picnic spot with spectacular views of the lake and the beaches south of Burrill Lake. The heathland here is quite beautiful in the spring and summer.
Return to the Pointers Gap Road and turn left. At the T-intersection turn right and, after 4 km, there is a small car park on the right. Walk through the green gate and follow the road to the sign that says 'Mt Bushwalker'. Turn right and pursue the track through the heathland. When the track peters out follow the yellow dots to the edge of the escarpment and an excellent view. Local enquiries about the state of the roads are advisable in wet weather.
Other Attractions
At the H Ranch (02 4456 4240) there is horseriding (4-km trail rides through the McDonald Ranges), grass skiing, a swimming pool. barbeques, bushwalks, a restaurant, hayrides and fine views . To get there drive north along the highway out of Milton and take the major left into Little Forest Road. The ranch lies 5 km along this road. It is open weekends and public holidays.
This road will also take you to Little Forest Creek. There is a short walk to a lookout which offers good views eastwards to the coast and south-west to Pigeon House Mountain.
In town Settler's Fair is held on the long weekend in October. There are genealogical, historical and art and craft displays, a flea market, street entertainment (a parade, dancers, buskers, fire-eating, jugglers, clowns, puppet shows, stalls, displays and acrobats), bush dancing, folk dancing, plus the annual fun run and half-marathon. The Country Fair and Market Day is held at the showground off Croobyar Road on the Sunday of that same weekend. The showground is also the site of the annual show in February.
The Milton Scarecrow Festival, a day of entertainment and activities, is held in conjunction with Ulladulla's Blessing of the Fleet at Eastertime. Scarecrows are made by the townspeople, displayed along the street and in shop windows and then auctioned off for charity.
Sign up for the Traveller Deals newsletter
Get exclusive travel deals delivered straight to your inbox. Sign up now.