Mount Isa, Queensland: Where you'll find the best cowboys in Australia

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This was published 8 years ago

Mount Isa, Queensland: Where you'll find the best cowboys in Australia

By Lee Atkinson
Barrel racing at the Mt Isa Rodeo.

Barrel racing at the Mt Isa Rodeo.Credit: Alamy

You hear a lot of unlikely claims to global fame when travelling through outback Queensland. Most are mostly true – the snakes are some of the deadliest in the world and the flies are definitely the friendliest. And I'm willing to believe the roads are the dustiest, and the sky is the biggest and (more often than not) the bluest. But when the folk at the Mount Isa visitor centre eagerly informed me that the hilltop lookout at the end of Hilary Street had been rated by Trip Advisor as the "No. 1 lookout in the world", I was sceptical.

It's a monumental claim and one I was unable to verify online, although the City Lookout was definitely rated as the "No. 1 thing to do in Mount Isa".

"You don't see so much from one spot anywhere in the world," enthused one breathless reviewer. But almost every other traveller confirmed that the lookout provided a "view over the city". But having been to the top of the hill – in both daylight and after dark, at the insistence of the visitor centre staff – I think Trip Advisor's InfinityandBeyond86 nailed it when she/he suggested that "if you really need to see a view of Mount Isa, just climb on the roof of your car".

Bull riding at Mt Isa Rodeo.

Bull riding at Mt Isa Rodeo.Credit: Alamy

After all, you can see the town's major landmark, the fuming smoke stack of the mine which locals will proudly tell you (every chance they get) is 10 metres higher than Sydney Tower, from 40 kilometres away. Although this turns out to be a bit of tall tale – the stack is 270 metres high and Sydney Tower is 309, if you measure it to the tip of the spire.

But given that The Isa, as it is known by locals, is surrounded by vast stretches of nothingness, you could probably see InfinityandBeyond86 standing on the roof of his/her car from 40km away as well.

Truth be told, there's not really all that much to see in Mount Isa because, like most mining towns – it's one of the world's leading producers of copper, silver, lead and zinc – this is a place where the action happens underground. Donning a hard hat and lurid orange overalls, I joined a tour of the Hard Times Mine, riding a steel cage down into the purpose-built mine museum beneath the centre of the city.

Stunning view from the lookout at sunset.

Stunning view from the lookout at sunset.Credit: Alamy

It might not have ever been a working mine, but it looks and feels just like one. And the 2½-hour tours, led by former miners, give you a great feel for what life would have been like for those who toiled almost 2km below the surface. The best bits are the off-the-script stories that emerge during the tea break in the crib room.

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Another underground attraction is the hospital, built during WWII but never actually used. Closed up for decades, it has been restored by volunteers and has been fully kitted out with all the latest in medical technology – or what was in the latest in 1942. Above ground, Lake Moondarra on the outskirts of town is the place to go for a spot of paddling, fishing and bird watching. The free barbecues make it the No. 1 spot for the grey nomad brigade.

However, Isa's biggest attraction is the annual rodeo, the largest and richest in the southern hemisphere, on August 12-14. It brings around 25,000 into the town. The rodeo is also, according to the locals, the toughest. Legendary showman Fred Brophy, who tours the outback with a troupe of hard-as-nails fighters in what he believes to be the world's last travelling boxing-tent show, reckons Mount Isa is one of his favourites.

Fred Brophy with Australia's last boxing tent, at the Mount Isa rodeo.

Fred Brophy with Australia's last boxing tent, at the Mount Isa rodeo.Credit: Alamy

"They're a tough lot these cowboys," he says, with grudging respect. "It's always a good show in Mount Isa."

Rodeo judge Rod Peters agrees. "Mount Isa is where you'll find the best cowboys and the best stock," he says, from his perch above the chutes in the arena. "The stock always buck up here!"

Having spent three days watching one cowboy after another get thrown off unrideable bulls, I can confirm this claim to fame.

Mt Isa from the City Lookout.

Mt Isa from the City Lookout.Credit: Alamy

TRIP NOTES

MORE INFORMATION

www.experiencemountisa.com.au

www.isarodeo.com.au

GETTING THERE

Mount Isa is about 900km west of Townsville. Both Virgin and Qantas fly direct to Mount Isa from Brisbane.

STAYING THERE

The Red Earth Hotel offers the best accommodation in town – see www.redearth-hotel.com.au.

EATING THERE

Head to the Mt Isa Hotel for one of their famous super-sized steaks. 11 Miles St.

Lee Atkinson was the guest of Tourism and Events Queensland.

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