Mussel bound

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This was published 15 years ago

Mussel bound

Fine lines . . . Wayne Gallop of Mr Mussel.

Fine lines . . . Wayne Gallop of Mr Mussel.Credit: Angela Wylie

When sojourning at the mellow seaside village of Portarlington, the captivating panorama takes in glistening bay waters, the humps of the volcanic-like You Yangs and a miniature Melbourne city skyline.

Situated at the northern tip of the Bellarine Peninsula, Portarlington is about 40 kilometres across Port Phillip Bay from Melbourne. Amid its Mediterranean-type outlook, the area harvests about 60 per cent of Australia's mussels.

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The cool temperate maritime climate, the passion of the local producers and the multicultural influence have allowed Portarlington to flourish with fine gastronomy that is complemented by the Bellarine's wines.

History

Surveyed in 1850, the site was thought to be named Drayton and was renamed Portarlington in 1851. Some believe this was in honour of Lord Arlington while others suggest it was named after an Irish village. It has been a significant area for a range of locally grown produce and was renowned for its cheese making. In 1850 the local cheese factory received an award at the Great Exhibition in London.

Escaped convict William Buckley is reputed to have spent his last few days at Portarlington before going to Melbourne to receive his pardon.

Steamers would regularly ply the bay to transport holidaymakers to Portarlington.

Attractions

The Portarlington Pier is the centrepiece of the town. Built in 1859, today it is home to about 15 mussel trawlers and is a key spot to throw in a line or simply appreciate the languid ambience. For fresh mussels straight off the boat head to Mr Mussel at Portarlington Pier before the busload of visitors arrive (phone 0415 333 432).

Swimming is possible in the sheltered bay, as is snorkelling from the pier to Steeles Rock where starfish, small stingrays and grassy underwater gardens may be seen.

Bring your own pushbike or hire a motorbike for about $50 a day. It includes 80 kilometres worth of fuel, helmet and delivery from Geelong and Bellarine Mopeds (phone 0409 234 300). A rewarding ride is along the esplanade from Portarlington to St Leonards via Indented Head.

There are more than 25 wineries operating on the Bellarine with about eight vineyards fringing Portarlington. Bellarine Estate, at 2270 Portarlington Road (see bellarineestate.com.au), has a cellar door for wine and micro-brewed beer tastings, including its distinctive mussel stout.

Kilgour Estate, at 85 McAdams Lane, Bellarine, has a cellar door and a restaurant that has been noted consistently in The Age Good Food Guide (see kilgourestate.com.au).

The Portarlington Mill at Turner Court (phone 5259 2804) remains one of only a few well-preserved Victorian flourmills. Restored by the National Trust, the 1857 sandstone property is like a mini-museum. It's open Saturdays and Sundays, September to May, from 12pm to 4pm.

Arts and shopping

Aussie Blue Mussels (42 Geelong Road, phone 5259 3088) has a shop stocked with local, organically farmed mussels such as those delicately smoked in sweet chilli and olive oil.

ArQ Studios and Gallery (40 Geelong Road, phone 5259 1123) displays local artists' work and has fine arts and crafts for purchase plus monthly musical performances.

EK Design Australia (86 Newcombe Street, phone 5259 3999) houses artistically designed, Australian-made glassware from bold coloured vases and bowls to exquisite perfume bottles and jewellery. For beading enthusiasts, Tiffs Treasures Beading Supplies is a home-based business at 26 Alison Street (see tiffstreasures.com.au). It supplies rare, imported beads and jewellery design books. Open Friday and Saturday from 10am to 4.30pm.

Quirky

Somewhat of a yachty's landmark, the Grand Hotel in the main street showcases a seven-metre-deep well in the floor of the bistro while its crooked square turret is considered Portarlington's Leaning Tower of Pisa.

Side trips

Lighthouse Olive Grove at 650 Andersons Road, Drysdale, is set amid thousands of leafy olive trees. The Lighthouse Olive Mill Shop has olive oil tastings plus olive oil and gourmet products. Upstairs from the shop is the Kalamata Cafe (see lighthouseoliveoil.com.au). The Bellarine Peninsula Railway runs steam trains along a 16-kilometre section between Queenscliff and Drysdale stations (see bpr.org.au).

Bellarine Rail Trail traverses 32.5 kilometres from Geelong to Queenscliff. Cyclists, walkers and horse riders can journey the gravel trail that follows part of the steam train railway. It can be joined from Geelong, Drysdale or Queenscliff (see bv.com.au).

At Barwon Heads Road, Barwon Heads, is 13th Beach Golf Links, a 36-hole golf course that includes the creek and the challenging beach courses. Currently it has twilight golf from 3pm (see 13thbeach.net).

Jirrahlinga Koala and Wildlife Sanctuary, Taits Road, Barwon Heads, has been rehabilitating sick, injured and orphaned wildlife for 30 years (see jirrahlinga.com.au).

Events

Bellarine Agricultural Show (March): a countrified carnival held at Portarlington Reserve including the quintessential gumboot-throwing competition.

National Celtic Festival (June): Celts from around Australia, and some from overseas, descend on Portarlington over the long weekend in June to partake in some very merry festivities (see nationalcelticfestival.com).

Portarlington Pelargonium and Geranium Festival (November): the town blooms with art and exhibitions (see portarlingtontourism.com.au).

Mussel Festival (January): savour a range of mussels, from those cooked in wasabi to white wine-infused concoctions, plus mussel shots, local produce, music, an art show and the dry boat competition (see portarlingtontourism.com.au).

Where to eat

As Australia's mussel capital, the succulent seafood delicacies regularly feature on Portarlington's restaurant menus.

The Blue Dolphin (Mavi Yunus), at 84 Newcombe Street (phone 5259 1600), is a delight for the coffee connoisseur and foodie. Turkish nights include belly dancing.

Built in 1855, the refurbished Ol' Duke, 40 Newcombe Street (phone 5259 1250), is the town's oldest hotel and has been noted in The Age Good Food Guide. Dine alfresco on the balcony or inside this smart, historic icon.

Indulge on Harding, located halfway up the hill on Harding Street (phone 5259 1999), offers an intimate dining ambience with an expansive outlook over the pier, trawlers and bay.

Recommended in , Port Pier Cafe (6 Pier Street, phone 5259 1080) sits on Portarlington Foreshore Reserve. This Spanish cafe offers a range of tasty dishes.

Harvester Moon, at 2320 Portarlington Road, Bellarine (phone 5259 3200), is about five minutes' drive from the main drag of Portarlington. Inside is a welcoming arthouse restaurant while outside are enchanting farm cottage gardens.

Where to stay

Generally a tranquil town with about 3000 residents, Portarlington balloons to about 10,000 in the holiday season.

The Ol' Duke hotel has six comfortable guestrooms upstairs or two self-contained apartments in the former stables. (theolduke.com.au).

Portarlington Seaside Resort, in Sproat Street, abuts the foreshore with direct access to the beach (portarlingtonresort.com.au).

The Hawthorn Suites, at 13th Beach Golf Resort, Barwon Heads, is about a 30-minute drive from Portarlington. It offers self-contained apartments (hawthornsuites.com.au).

Getting there

Portarlington is about a 90-minute drive from Melbourne or about 25 minutes from Geelong.

A ferry service travels between Sorrento and Queenscliff (see searoad.com.au). It's then about 20 minutes' drive to Portarlington.

Trains from Melbourne's Southern Cross Station head to Geelong regularly (vline.com.au). From there a bus service travels to Portarlington (mcharrys.com.au).

More information

Phone the Queenscliff Visitor Centre on 1300 884 843 or see visitportarlington.com.

LOCAL'S VIEW

FREELANCE writer Rick Wilkinson discovered his sea change locale when he visited Portarlington almost 12 years ago.

"When I came, straight away I realised there is always this view. I looked out and looked back and said: 'This has got to be it,' " he says.

Since leaving full-time Melbourne suburban living, Wilkinson has, literally, been living with the sweeping bay views at his back door.

"The colours of the views are never the same here. It doesn't matter what time of the year they are always wonderful," Wilkinson says. "Often I have a coffee while gazing out to the bay and beyond. Sometimes I wonder what [explorer] Matthew Flinders saw here 200 years ago. It's my meditation."

For Wilkinson, Portarlington offers a "casual lifestyle" that happens to come with some excellent fare. "The whole area has something to offer from olives, mussels and the bay, to fine food and wine," he says.

"There's no rushing about. It still has a country town feel. There are plenty of walks around, plus the [nearby] rail trail to ride along. It's safe for the kids and extremely safe swimming at the beach and near the pier.

"There are some fantastic people here, it's not too big but it is cosmopolitan enough to visit and live. Everyone's friendly and you always bang into someone you know. You don't need to go anywhere else."

Wilkinson's new-found lifestyle near the sea inspired him to explore Portarlington and the surrounding area. In 2005, his book, The Bellarine . . . Via Rambler's Road, was published.

"There were a lot of interesting things going on and there's so much history here. Plus, there was the new stuff such as the olive groves and wineries. I thought it would make an interesting contrast," Wilkinson says.

"Basically it was a ramble through my backyard and a yarn with the locals to find out why they were here and what they were doing."

"I'm certainly not leaving in a hurry."

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