This was published 8 years ago
Norderney: Germany's island of spas and sandy beaches
By Ute Junker
An aerial view of Northern beach in Norderney.Credit: Alamy
Michelin-star restaurants? Check. Decadent spa centre? Check. Fourteen kilometres of sandy beaches, and a World Heritage-listed wilderness criss-crossed with hiking and biking paths? Check and check. Norderney has it all: not bad for an island only 14 kilometres long.
Germany's north coast is sprinkled with small islands but, for sheer diversity, nowhere can compete with Norderney. The island, just an hour's ferry ride from the coast, draws a diverse range of visitors. Many are nature lovers, who come to explore the tidal flats and wetlands known as the Wadden Sea. The area's astonishing biodiversity – it is home to 2300 different species, including 400 species of insects, as well as shellfish, crustaceans and algae – has scored a World Natural Heritage listing from UNESCO.
At high tide, you can spot grey seals and harbour porpoises frolicking in the shallows. When the tide ebbs, the wading birds take over. Spoonbills, terns, geese and ducks all come here in huge numbers: literally hundreds of thousands of birds visit the island across the year.
Norderney's wide beaches are one of its greatest drawcards.
The plant life of the tidal flats is just as fascinating, with many species forced to develop clever ways of coping with the regular inundations of seawater. Some plants have developed special glands to filter out the saltwater; other plants store the salt in their lower leaves, which then fall off.
Not everyone who comes here is a nature lover, however. Norderney also appeals to those in search of wellbeing. The benefits of the island's iodine-scented air and mild climate are much talked about in Germany: chat to the locals and you will find many of them originally moved here to alleviate chronic conditions such as asthma and eczema. All of them declare they have never felt better in their lives.
Of course, it doesn't hurt when you have a spa centre as impressive as Norderney's. Europeans are expert at harnessing the healing effects of seawater, known as thalassotherapy; few places tackle it as seriously as the Badehaus Norderney. As well as offering separate areas for families and adults, this sprawling 8000-square-metre wellness complex has two distinct levels: fire and water.
The beach sauna is always popular in Norderney.
Heat up on the fire level with steam rooms, saunas, or a long liedown on the hot stone terrace, before cooling off on the water level, where you can choose from reviving waterfalls, a saline bath that is as salty as the Dead Sea, and indoor and outdoor pools at various temperatures, the lowest a chilly 14 degrees.
When you are done, it is time for a walk. Norderney offers plenty of opportunities to stretch your legs – 85 per cent of the island is dedicated national park. You can follow a network of hiking paths through salt marshes and windswept dunes.
If you prefer paved roads, the pretty town of Norderney has cobblestone streets lined with boutiques, as well as a clutch of cultural venues. Since the 19th century, when Norderney was the favoured summer retreat of Hanover's royal family, the island has had a thriving arts scene. During the summer season, there are daily concerts from some of Europe's best musical ensembles.
Norderney, Germany.
Alternatively, you could head for the beach. The beaches on the island's northern coast are wild and untamed, the perfect place to savour solitude. By contrast, the promenades along the western beaches are lined with restaurants. The funky Milchbar is the favoured place for sunset drinks.
This is also where you will find the island's best hotel. A building that was originally used to store the wooden boards of the pier during the stormy winter months has now been converted in the chic boutique hotel, the Seesteg. Each of the 16 rooms has a sea view and the hotel restaurant has been awarded a Michelin star for its seasonal cuisine. Everything, from the bread onwards, is made in house, and the dishes showcase local produce, including ham and cheese.
One word of warning: if you want to visit Norderney, you might want to do it sooner rather than later. The storms that frequently batter this area are constantly reshaping the landscape. Norderney, like many of the other islands in the area, was once part of the mainland, until a series of ferocious storm tides literally swept away the intervening land. Even today, every high tide nibbles away a bit more of the island. Locals are the first to admit the island's days are numbered: but, while it lasts, they say, there is no better place to be.
The Weisse Duene restaurant is a great place for a romantic dinner.Credit: Folker Winkelmann
TRIP NOTES
MORE INFORMATION
Ocean views from the Hotel Seesteg.
GETTING THERE
Emirates operates three flights a day from both Sydney and Melbourne to Dubai, connecting with flights to Hamburg. For more information, see www.emirates.com/au. From Hamburg, take the train to Norden, from where the boat departs for Norderney. See www.raileurope.com.au.
STAYING THERE
Hotel Seesteg, Damenpfad 36A, Norderney. Rooms from €280 ($422). www.seesteg-norderney.de/en
EATING THERE
Norderney's other unforgettable dining experience is the Weisse Duene. Tucked in amid remote sand dunes, it combines beachcomber chic with a seasonal menu. Weisse Duene 1, www.weisseduene.com.
Ute Junker travelled courtesy of the German National Tourism Office, Rail Europe and Staatsbad Norderney.
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