On my first visit to Norfolk a few years ago, the weather had been against me. This time I've got three days to make it happen.
It's an island off Australia but after listening to the locals, it might as well be an island off Mars.
Perhaps it's an accident of history: this place has a bloody past. Or maybe the people are just plain weird.
There aren't many destinations that can interest both eight and 80-year-olds, but this tiny territory can.
Amy Cooper revels in the paradox of catering at a place called 'Tin Sheds', Norfolk Island's first five-star accommodation.
Beauteously and unexpectedly bucolic, this pine-studded, sparsely populated isle is marooned in the middle of a watery wilderness, the closest landfall being 1400 kilometres away. It truly is a subtropical Pacific paradise and one brimful of surprises.