Northern Ireland's troubled past is now a must-see for tourists

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This was published 15 years ago

Northern Ireland's troubled past is now a must-see for tourists

"Over there is the Protestant area. And there, behind the wall in the middle of the road are the Catholics," says Alan Hoy with a smile as he tells tales of Belfast's hardest working class areas.

His taxi carefully parked on the kerb, Hoy works for one of seven cab firms that now take the curious to north and west Belfast to explain all about what is still euphemistically called around here "The Troubles".

From Crumlin Road, to Shankill, Falls Road and Ardoyne, Hoy's route is well planned. He stops in front of the derelict courthouse in Crumlin Road and the famous jail opposite, which is no longer taking guests of Her Majesty.

He then stops at the main murals painted onto the mish-mash of small brick houses in the fiercely Protestant Shankill area.

Next stop is the Ardoyne, former stronghold of the Irish Republican Army (IRA), where more gable end frescoes celebrate the opposite political point of view.

Northern Ireland went to the polls on March 7 but Hoy says despite the peace, Protestant and Catholic children are still educated separately and hatred, intolerance, violence and death persist.

His tour ends by the largest so-called "peace wall", which still separates the two communities along Shankill Road. In the past few months, it has become longer and higher.

"The Germans are jealous of our wall," he jokes, referring to the old Berlin Wall that separated west from east at the height of the Cold War. "You can take pictures. It's safe to walk around."

Locals going about their business don't even look at the visitors. They are used to it.

Each year, thousands of people now visit the areas where the bloody pages of the Northern Ireland conflict were written, says Fiona Ure, from the Belfast tourist office.

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Some 3500 people died between 1969 and 1998, when the Belfast or Good Friday peace accords were signed, largely ending the sectarian violence.

"Some are seeing tourism as a way to help regenerate those areas and get the community involved," Ure says. "It helps us change."

One of the most recent, less political murals was of George Best, the genius Northern Ireland and Manchester United footballer who died in late 2005 after a decades-long struggle with alcoholism.

Another was of the doomed ocean liner Titanic, which was built in Belfast, or even of C.S. Lewis, the author of the famous The Chronicles of Narnia.

Tour buses are now taking detours into these areas. Former loyalist prisoners are even getting in on the act, giving their own guided tours in west Belfast.

But Ure is quick to point out that political visits are not the only things to see in town. The nine-year peace has helped open up Belfast to tourism and this year it was among the Lonely Planet guide's top 10 must-see destinations.

The number of hotel rooms here has tripled in 10 years: in 2005, 6.4 million people visited Belfast - 500,000 more than in 2004. City bosses are hoping to break the eight million barrier this year.

"There's confidence in investing in tourism," says Ure, sitting in the vast tourist offices opened in the city centre in 2001. "People are saying, let's go somewhere different for the weekend, and think, 'why not Belfast?"'

AFP

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