Oceania Cruises' Marina: Where luxury, value and outstanding food create the perfect cruise balance

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Oceania Cruises' Marina: Where luxury, value and outstanding food create the perfect cruise balance

By Brian Johnston
The pool deck on Oceania Cruises' Marina.

The pool deck on Oceania Cruises' Marina.Credit: Oceania Cruises

If you were Goldilocks, you'd be very pleased with Marina, and get far more than just a bowl of porridge and a comfortable bed. This isn't a ship trying to wow you with ridiculous waterslide gimmicks or bling or sheer bulk. It isn't too small for pleasantries such as a spa, theatre and multiple dining venues, yet not so large that you feel as if a chunk of Las Vegas has slipped its moorings and floated out to sea. After you've experienced it from bow to stern, you might conclude there's a lot that is just right about this well-imagined vessel.

Oceania Cruises has created an interesting niche for itself. It's a step above upper-premium big ships but not quite at the increasingly all-inclusive, luxury small-ship level. With 1250 passengers, it sits in the middle for size, too. For its price point, it does exceedingly well. Fares are reasonable and, though you'll still be charged supplements for the likes of shore excursions, alcohol, Wi-Fi and gratuities, you do get complimentary soft drinks and coffee, and all but one of its specialty dining experiences are included.

The latter is more than just a nice perk. On some cruise ships, you cough up $60 extra for a meal that doesn't match what you'd get in a decent onshore restaurant. Marina's dining experiences are generally excellent. If you're the sort of traveller to prioritise good food over free-flowing cheap wine or the dubious delights of free Wi-Fi, look no further.

Luxury, value and great food: Marina offers the right balance.

Luxury, value and great food: Marina offers the right balance.Credit: Oceania Cruises

Oceania claims "the finest cuisine at sea" and only occasionally falls short. Its culinary credentials extend to food-themed shore excursions, wine seminars and hands-on cooking classes at the on-board Culinary Centre, also featured on sister ship Riviera. Depending on the destination, you can tackle knife skills and grilling techniques, or learn to cook Nordic, Spanish or Greek cuisine, after which you can tuck into your own creations.

One of the culinary classes invites you to tackle some of specialty restaurant Red Ginger's favourite dishes, such as lobster pad thai and spicy duck and watermelon salad. Red Ginger is undoubtedly the best pan-Asian restaurant at sea and the most popular of the on-board specialty restaurants.The others are Jacques for French bistro fare and traditional country cuisine, Toscana for Italian (with particularly good pastas), and Polo Grill for steaks, chops and seafood. Only La Reserve attracts a supplement, and it's well worth the splurge. It provides possibly the best dining experience on any ship, with a seven-course menu and matching wines. Just 24 guests an evening tingle their taste buds with the likes of lobster soufflé, fillet of sole and beef tenderloin with stuffed mushrooms, a showcase of classical 19th-century French cuisine.

Regular dining venues, including buffet venue Terrace Café, are also impressive. In the evenings in the Grand Dining Room, the main restaurant, you can tuck into the likes of mussels in white wine, red onion soup with ginger foam or peppercorn steak in brandy sauce, then finish with a citrus tart and pistachio ice-cream, or chocolate-passionfruit volcano with caramel lava. The restaurant has an attractive brown and gold décor and, being at the ship's bow, is flooded with light, abetted in the evenings by a huge central chandelier.

A cabin on Marina.

A cabin on Marina.Credit: Oceania Cruises

The odd Murano chandelier that sparkles like a disco ball in choppy seas, plus a Grand Staircase in the atrium created by Lalique, provide the only real bling. The ambience is country-club relaxed and the décor designer-chic without being brassy. Built in 2011 and refurbished in 2016, Marina is spacious, elegant and upmarket, yet avoids the reverent atmosphere of some luxury lines. It's a lovely ship that never sets out to provoke but offers graceful, satisfying décor almost everywhere you look. And it's worth looking. Some of the artworks include sketches by Picasso, Miró and Damien Hirst. Impressive contemporary sculptures grace stairwell landings, wrought-iron railings have a gracious art deco sensibility, and arresting glassware is everywhere.

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All this creates the right vibe for Oceania's passengers, generally an understated lot, neither too posh nor trying too hard, well travelled but not boastful, keen on itineraries that emphasise destination and include a port overnight or two. In the evenings they're nicely turned out, but there are no formal nights requiring suits or silks. Most are American retirees, but it depends on season and destination; my cruise in French Polynesia has a fair number of Australians and Europeans on board. There aren't many children, since Marina has no specific kids' amenities.

Quite a few passengers have migrated upwards from larger cruise ships in the search for a more sophisticated, upmarket experience. Those seeking the raucous will seek in vain. Ping-pong, mini-golf, shuffleboard, team trivia and bridge classes pass the time. There are no pool parties or wild nightclubs, though many agreeable bars. Horizons Lounge has a sedate dance floor.

Sushi sharing platter from Red Ginger restaurant on Marina.

Sushi sharing platter from Red Ginger restaurant on Marina.Credit: Oceania Cruises

Casino Bar holds only a handful of people whose faces glow purple from the backlighting. Its space-ship look strikes an odd note on an otherwise beautifully understated ship, as showcased in the lovely promenade-style Grand Bar, with its interesting art, huge potted palms and spectacular lampstands made from jagged chunks of crystal. It leads into Martinis, studded with fantastic glassware. This New York, art deco-ish retreat is Marina's best bar, with an agreeable evening hubbub rising above the tinkling of a piano. Its signature cocktail blends vodka, Cointreau, orange and cranberry juices and a dash of fresh lime.

If, like Goldilocks, you're keen on a bit of a snooze or some just-right seating then daytime offers plenty of places to relax, too. Kick back around the heated pool or in the aromatic steam room at the Canyon Ranch spa. Barista Cafe is worked by friendly young Italian baristas who provide that American cruise-ship rarity, proper coffee. It's a small space with a lively buzz and a great outlook over the pool deck. Nearby, the Library has wonderful nooks with leather armchairs, walls of books and ship's models in glass cases.

Another terrific ship's model – an enormous American Gold Cup Racer, part sail and part steamship – graces Horizons Lounge. For a ship's observation lounge, it has sadly low ceilings, a limited outlook and frigid airconditioning. It seldom seems busy except at four o'clock when afternoon-tea trolleys roll out loaded with sandwiches and a sinful temptation of tarts, cakes and the best baklava you'll find at sea. Shipboard afternoon teas have become a cliché, but this one delights.

Marina provides so many pleasant spaces that you may not linger much in your cabin. Yet these are attractive, too. My mid-range Concierge Level Veranda category (room 9121) is a decent 26 square metres in size with a lounge area and balcony, separate bathtub big enough for a true wallow, and a somewhat cramped shower. It delivers where it really matters, with a very comfortable bed and snuggle-worthy linens to gratify even the most exacting of Goldilocks.

There are bigger ships, there are smaller ships. Some are more exciting, others more luxurious. Few have such consistently good food. Pleasantness trumps wow factor, but the more time you spend on Marina the more you realise it should. This ship doesn't show off, but it delivers an exceptionally fine experience.

Brian Johnston travelled as a guest of Oceania Cruises.

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CRUISE

Oceania Cruises' Marina sails worldwide. The ship will be in the Mediterranean in the second half of 2018 before moving to South America in November. In January 2019, Marina sails several itineraries in French Polynesia before heading north towards New York and back across the Atlantic to Europe for its summer 2019 season. The writer sailed a 10-day Sparkling South Pacific itinerary round-trip from Papeete. From $3450 per person. Phone 1300 355 200. See oceaniacruises.com

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