Och aye the new year

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This was published 15 years ago

Och aye the new year

By Katie Wood
Great Scots ... Members of the December 29 Torchlight Procession go

Great Scots ... Members of the December 29 Torchlight Procession goCredit: Getty Images

Listed as one of the top 100 things to do before you die, Edinburgh's Hogmanay celebrations are renowned as being one of the biggest and best parties in the world. And take it from one who was born in the place and is not prone to hyperbole - it really is a belter of a party.

With hundreds of events and performances spread over four days, forget Sydney, Edinburgh is where the new year party is.

Why go?

Well, the New Year's Eve party was invented in Scotland. Nobody parties as hard as the Jocks on December 31 and an energetic ceilidh is far more fun than a two-step shuffle to the sounds of the 1970s. And even when the festivities are over, there's still one of the world's most beautiful cities to explore.

Highlights for 2008

Kicking off four days of celebrations, December 29 will see Edinburgh's Hogmanay open with the spectacular Torchlight Procession. The procession features about 20,000 people marching through the ancient streets of the Scottish capital led by traditional and contemporary bands and musicians.

On December 31 the party really gets going as the length and breadth of the city's main thoroughfare - Princes Street - and Princes Street Gardens come alive with festivities and an expected 100,000 revellers.

Imagine one of the world's biggest street parties framed by the brilliant backdrop of the 11th-century Edinburgh Castle, while rock and pop concerts go live across multiple stages and glitter against the fairytale skyline of the city.

Add in candle-lit concerts and the traditional Scottish "Glayva Ceilidh" in the gardens and yes, you get the picture: Edinburgh's Hogmanay is not a night to sleep through.

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One of the big names appearing this year is the Scottish-born singer-songwriter Paolo Nutini, fresh from worldwide success with his debut album, These Streets.

He'll open the Concert in the Gardens event, which begins at 9pm.

Also appearing is the internationally acclaimed indie band of the moment and NME Radar award winners, Glasvegas.

Having taken critics and fans by storm this summer, the band is fresh from a headline tour of the US where its reputation as "the most important band of their generation" has continued to grow.

Quite a line-up so far ...

Street Party passes are available for an administration fee of ?10 ($23) from edinburghshogmanay.com.

Hangover cure

If you don't overdo the drams of whisky and partying, you can kick-start 2009 with a New Year's Day Triathlon. Join more than 450 other participants (eh, no, I won't be among them) and take to the city's Royal Commonwealth Pool before completing the final two legs around the city's volcanic mountain known as Arthur's Seat, on bike and on foot.

Bringing the festival to a spectacular conclusion later that evening is the new, specifically commissioned "Feet First" event.

This brings together more than 120 Scottish musicians, dancers, actors and other performers in one of the biggest free performance events of its kind in Europe.

Don't miss

The Royal Mile climbs from the ancient Palace of Holyroodhouse to the castle rock.

In between, the cobbled streets are lined with museums and historic churches.

This is the spine of the Old Town and it oozes history and interesting buildings and - conveniently - it's also a brilliant pub crawl. Going from pub to pub is all part and parcel of a Scottish Hogmanay - hey, it'd be rude to the locals not to join in!

Below the Old Town you find the broad avenues and elegant squares of the Georgian New Town - well, "new" to us. It actually dates back to the 18th century. This area offers world-class shopping and fine dining and the wilds of Holyrood Park that surround the Queen's official residence of Holyrood Palace, as it is less formerly known, are within walking distance.

Eat

Edinburgh has some fabulous restaurants that serve everything from pub grub to Michelin-starred cuisine. The hub of the capital's dining scene is Leith, the old docks area. Here you find award-winning restaurants and a real buzz.

For a spectacular eating experience in a formal setting, try Restaurant Martin Wishart (54 The Shore, Leith, phone +44 0131 553 3557, see martin-wishart.co.uk). It offers the best of British cuisine using the finest ingredients, with a spectacular wine list, too.

Also, don't miss the wonderfully creative pleasures of The Kitchin (78 Commercial Quay, Leith; +44 0131 555 1755, thekitchin.com).

Owner and chef Tom Kitchin is a bit of a local legend. Using fresh seasonal ingredients, he serves up fabulously creative dishes such as foie gras teamed with haggis, "neeps" and "tatties" (swedes and potatoes) and does superb things with fish and game.

The minimalistic, dark and moody restaurant contrasts with the brightly lit kitchen that you can peep into as you sip your wine and savour the moment. In the city centre, Cafe St Honore (34 North West Thistle Street Lane; +44 0131 226 2211, cafesthonore.com) is a cosy romantic bistro with a great wine list and classic French dishes from ?17. Lots of garlic, lots of atmosphere, all the staff speak French; it's the closest to Paris you can get in Scotland. On George Street there's also penthouse dining in the chic Oloroso Bar & Restaurant (enter from 33 Castle Street; +44 0131 226 7614, oloroso.co.uk).

With fabulous views of the castle and the Firth of Forth, it is one of the places to see and be seen in Edinburgh. The a la carte menu changes twice daily and features the best European cuisine has to offer.

Up by the castle is another Edinburgh legend - The Witchery (352 Castlehill; +44 0131 225 5613, thewitchery.com). Gothic drama, candles and brocades, history and sheer theatre make this a special dinner venue. Celebrities such as Ewan McGregor, Michael Douglas, Catherine Zeta-Jones, Jack Nicholson and others love this restaurant.

Booking is required for all of the above so log on and email ahead.

Party tips

Layer your clothes and bring plenty. Hats, gloves and two pairs of socks are particularly recommended. Expect to be cold ... very cold. Pack some snacks. Jumping around and hugging all your mates at the bells burns energy. So does being cold.

Talk to anyone and everyone - that's what it's all about. Hogmanay parties are all about love for your fellow man (and yes, kissing is expected and allowed).

Learn about First-Footing - a "first-foot" is the first person, other than a member of the household, who crosses the threshold after midnight. Ensure you have a bottle to offer around and greet all with enthusiasm.

TRIP NOTES

* Getting there Singapore Airlines flies Sydney to London from $2675.12, see singaporeair.com.au. Get to Edinburgh by rail with National Express East Coast. Advance returns, booked online, start from ?28 ($64) Standard Class. See nationalexpresseastcoast.com to book.

* Staying there The city's best hostel is Edinburgh Central at 9 Haddington Place, phone +44 131 524 2090, see edinburghcentral.org. Beds from ?15, single rooms from ?25, twins from ?37. Six Mary's Place is a great guesthouse. It's at Raeburn Place, Stockbridge, phone +44 131 332 8965, see sixmarysplace.co.uk. Singles from ?45, doubles from ?94. The Edinburgh Residence offers private suites, phone +44 131 226 3380, see theedinburghresidence.com. Rooms are from ?95 a person a night, including breakfast.

* Further information The Scottish Tourist Board, see visitscotland.com. The tourist information office on Princes Street is open daily, see http://www.edinburgh.org. The one, two or three-day Edinburgh Pass (?20-24 hours, ?36-48 hours, ?45-72 hours) includes admission to more than 30 attractions, bus transfers to the airport and around the city and discounts at some restaurants and shops. See www.edinburghpass.com.

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