Old Cobargo Convent, review: On a wing and a prayer

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This was published 12 years ago

Old Cobargo Convent, review: On a wing and a prayer

Graceful ... the Old Cobargo Convent on the far south coast.

Graceful ... the Old Cobargo Convent on the far south coast.

Bruce Elder finds a stylish stay at a converted convent in the Bega Valley.

A dormitory once occupied by schoolgirls is now the Blue Room for guest stays at the delightful Old Cobargo Convent, built in 1917 and remarkably well preserved.

It's a solid, post-Federation brick building with a wide verandah, lots of shade, a rose garden, central hallway and beautiful pressed-metal ceilings in all rooms. One end of this former convent houses the family that runs the bed and breakfast; guests share a comfortable lounge room and have a choice of three bedrooms at the front of the building.

The lounge is an ideal place to chat and has old-style sofas and chairs and plenty of reading matter, as well as a large plasma television. All three guests' rooms (one with an adjoining bathroom, the two others with en suites) run off the central hallway.

At the back of the building is a huge kitchen where Josephite nuns cooked for themselves and the boarders. The B&B's owners, Pam and Rob Burgess, serve guests a hearty breakfast: fruit salad and yoghurt, bacon and eggs or pancakes with asparagus, fresh home-baked bread, local butter and home-made jams - in an adjacent dining room.

When the Burgesses recently visited France, they decided to buy a few pieces of period furniture for the property. They got a little carried away and ended up filling a 12-metre container. The decision was aesthetic, as this gracious old building with its spacious rooms and 3.6-metre ceilings deserves interiors in keeping with its elegance. Rob even bought an old Citroen and squeezed it into the container, too.

The furniture enhances the former convent as an ideal base for visitors exploring one of the most interesting and little-known regions of the state. Early settlers on the far south coast used local timber for housing and commercial buildings and Cobargo's main street is a monument to their construction techniques and materials.

Pick up a Village History Walk brochure from the Cobargo Tourist Information Centre (or from the Bermagui Tourist Information Centre, 21 kilometres to the east) and start sauntering; 27 timber-and-brick buildings (including the convent) are listed. Just to make things easier for visitors, the buildings in the centre of town are numbered; so, for example No. 7 at 62 Princes Highway, now a pharmacy, is listed as having been built in 1906 and is "one of the few buildings of that era constructed in brick with pressed-metal ceilings and a marble fireplace". It was originally a solicitor's office.

Just up the road from Cobargo are the beautifully preserved timber towns of Central Tilba and Tilba Tilba and, further along the coast, the remarkable Tathra Wharf. It's a reminder of a time when the main means of transport to the region was by water. From Sydney, ships brought supplies and the mail; from Tathra, ships returned with dairy produce.

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Whether you're driving north from Tathra or south from Bermagui, you can peel off into Aragunnu, in the Mimosa Rocks National Park. Aragunnu has one of the finest Aboriginal middens anywhere in Australia: a freshwater stream on one side and a rocky headland, heavy with crustaceans at the water's edge, on the other. The midden and surrounds are a reminder of what life was like for indigenous people for thousands of years.

Cobargo is a culinary wasteland at night and, although it has charming daytime cafes, the only option for an evening meal is the pub. We head to Bermagui, whose harbour has several good restaurants. An old favourite is Saltwater. It does a fish-and-chips takeaway or, from $21, there's a "grilled seafood delight" comprising prawns, calamari, locally caught and gloriously fresh swordfish, salad and, mercifully, a few chips. How's that for a south coast bargain?

Weekends Away are reviewed anonymously and paid for by Traveller.

VISITORS' BOOK

Old Cobargo Convent

Address Wandella Road, Cobargo.

The verdict A comfortable and tasteful conversion with fine attention to detail and an emphasis on old-world charm.

Price From $120-$150 a night including a cooked breakfast.

Bookings Phone 6493 6419, see cobargoconvent.com.au.

Getting there Cobargo is about 380 kilometres (a five-hour drive) south of Sydney on the Princes Highway. Drive through the town, cross the bridge, turn right and continue along Wandella Road for about 400 metres. The convent is next to St Mary's Catholic Church.

Perfect for A peaceful inland stay.

Wheelchair access There are a few stairs up to the verandah.

While you're there Explore Cobargo's historic shops; visit Tathra; explore Mimosa Rocks National Park; explore Central Tilba and Tilba Tilba; visit the Bega Cheese Factory.

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