One day three different ways: Seoul

One day three different ways: Seoul

PENNY PINCH

Seoul is by no means expensive. Get a day ticket on the subway (smrt.co.kr; $10) and visit World Heritage sites such as tranquil 14th-century Jongmyo, a Confucian shrine dedicated to Korea’s kings and queens, and the blended Western and Korean architectural style that makes up Deoksugung Palace, where you can watch the changing of the guard (jm.cha.go.kr; $10 ticket covering four sites). Then head to Insadong, a traditional alleyway of teahouses and tiny stores selling calligraphy and antiques, and enjoy homemade noodle soup at Gaetmaeul Milbatjip ($10).Nearby Namdaemun Market has bargain clothes, shoes and sporting goods.

For dinner, snack at one of the many grilled-meat eateries of Itaewon ($20), then check out the jazz bars (beer $4) and soak up the lively student vibe. Get yourself a double room – and free Wi-Fi – at the cheerful Banana Backpackers (bananabackpackers.com; $57).

TOTAL: $111

EASY DOES IT

At the edge of the city, Changdeokgung Palace (cdg.go.kr; $3) is a royal residence with superb traditional gardens, framed by a backdrop of forested hills that makes for a relaxed morning. Then head to Korea House (koreahouse.or.kr: $50 lunch), a traditional mansion with wood floored, paper-screened rooms and great food. Waitresses float around in traditional hanbok dressed like exotic butterflies. Afterwards in the kitchen, enjoy a lesson ($52) in making dumplings or kimchi, the pickled cabbage so beloved of Koreans. In the evening, you can get some Gangnam style along Apgujeong Rodeo Street with its international brand-name fashions and accessories, vintage clothes and traditional Korean hanbok costumes. The street is a good place to sit in a trendy cafe such as Mui Mui ($40 evening meal) and people-watch. Stay nearby at chic, sleek Grand Ambassador Seoul (pullmanhotels.com; from$152).

TOTAL: $297

SPLASH OUT