PENNY PINCH
Expensive Stockholm can be managed on a budget. Grab a bike for the day ($17) along with a dorm bed at friendly City Backpackers Hostel (citybackpackers.org; $32, double $109), which has a free sauna and Wi-Fi. Pedal along the waterfront promenades, bridges and parks and soak up harbour views and old-town atmosphere before lunch at one of Stockholm's ubiquitous hotdog stands ($10). For alternative fashions and counterculture goods, head across the water to the island district of Sodermalm, where the few blocks south of Folkungagatan have been nicknamed SoFo for their hip, funky design galleries and youthful cafe life. Garlic and Shots (garlicandshots.com; $25) is a good-value, popular eatery, providing you have a taste for the garlic incorporated into every dish, including the desserts. There's also a stunning range of vodka ($10) with which to wash it all down. TOTAL: $94
EASY DOES IT
Start at City Hall (stockholm.se/cityhall; $11), an alluring pastiche of Byzantine and Italianate styles and the location of Nobel Prize ceremonies. Clamber up the tower for a dazzling view of Stockholm harbour and old town. Down below, catch a public ferry (sl.se; $19 for a 24-hour transport ticket) across Lake Malaren to Drottningholm (kungahuset.se; $20), a yellow baroque palace in landscaped gardens. Back in the city, have a picnic at Ostermalmshallen (ostermalmshallen.se; $15) where stalls sell takeaway food. Inner-city Ostermalm has terrific design boutiques selling chic glassware, kitchen utensils and Nordic knits, while adjacent Norrmalm has department stores. Stay at the Scandic Anglais (scandichotels.se; $244) for airy rooms and organic breakfasts downtown. Dine at Bakfickan (operakallaren.se; two courses $60), a trendy spot serving reindeer and elk. TOTAL: $369
SPLASH OUT
Spend the morning at sprawling green, canal-lined Djurgarden, starting at Waldemarsudde (waldemarsudde.se; $17), a royal villa with works by leading Scandinavian artists. Continue to the Vasa (vasamuseet.se; $22), a virtually intact 1628 warship. Finish at Skansen open-air museum (skansen.se; from $17), before having herb-crusted herring at Bla Porten (blaporten.com; $60). In the afternoon, wander along the streets of the old town. Inspect the crown jewels at the palace (kungahuset.se; $25) and artworks in Stockholm's oldest building opposite, the 1250 Great Church (stockholmsdomkyrkoforsam ling.se; $7). Dine at Den Gyldene Freden (gyldenefreden.se; three courses $120), open since 1722 and serving updates of Nordic cuisine. Sleep at Lady Hamilton Hotel (thecollectorshotels.se; $319), a 1470 building that oozes romance. TOTAL: $587
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