Things to do in Yucatan Peninsula, Mexico: One day three ways

PENNY PINCH

In Yucatan state's lively capital, Merida, start with $2 fruit, honey and granola at the peppy Cafe Organico (Calle 53, no 502). Then spend the morning ticking off the free sights flanking the handsome main square. The cathedral is bulkily austere, the Casa de Montejo is all colonial architecture and gorgeous period furniture and the Palacio de Gobierno has fabulous murals depicting the region's history. After Tuscan-style fettuccine at La Tratto de Santa Lucia (www.trottersmerida.com, $12), take a taxi ($15 return) to the Gran Museo del Mundo Maya (www.granmuseodelmundomaya, $13). This explores Mayan culture, both ancient and modern. Try traditional Mayan dishes such as relleno negro – turkey in a black, spicy sauce – at La Chaya Maya (www.lachayamaya.com, $10) then bed down at the cute, colourfully feminine and design-conscious Ko'ox Casa de las Palomas (www.kooxhotels.com, $138).

TOTAL: $177

TAKE IT EASY

Pick up a hire car from Europcar in Tulum (www.europcar.com, $20) then drive to the Akumal Dive Shop (www.akumaldiveshop.com) to go snorkelling with turtles – and maybe the odd manta ray – from the beach. Hour-long tours cost $47 including snorkelling equipment. Enjoy chicken enchiladas with house mole at La Lunita (www.lalunita-akumal.com, $11), then return south for a rather different snorkelling experiences at the Cenotes Dos Ojos (www.cenotedosojos.com, $17). Here, sinkholes give access to an otherwise underground river with stunningly clear water and a cave system to swim around and generally marvel at. Lively, maze-like Mateo's at Tulum Beach is the spot for dinner – get the superb grilled white fish for $21 and maybe a mango margarita ($10) as a sundowner. Then stay in Tulum at simple-but-solid 10-room beachside joint, El Paraiso ($155 including breakfast).

TOTAL: $281

SPLASH OUT

Spend most of the day at the Sian Ka'an Biosphere Reserve. There a Mayan co-operative, Community Tours Sian Ka'an (siankaantours.org), offers a $141 Muyil, Forest and Float tour. This includes a guided walk through the Muyil ruins, a boat trip across two lagoons, and a ridiculously entertaining lazy river-esque float down a channel between the second lagoon and the sea. Lunch – an outstanding Mayan fish dish with homemade tortillas – is included. Once dropped back in Tulum, take a taxi ($12 return) to the Tulum ruins. The only coastal Mayan city, it has impressive temples, legions of iguanas, and private guides can explain the history ($70, including entry). For dinner, go meatmongous on a $50 Argentine parrillada at Estancia Jujena on Tulum's main road. Then cab it back ($6) to the spa-focused Be Tulum (betulum.com, $564 including breakfast), which combines luxury with Tulum's hippy chic.

TOTAL: $843

The writer was a guest of Sefotur (Yucatan.travel) and Riviera Maya tourism (rivieramaya.com).