This was published 2 years ago
Paris travel guide and things to do: The new cleaner, greener Paris
By Ute Junker
Central streets including Rue de Rivoli are dedicated almost entirely to bikes and pedestrians.Credit: Getty Images
Pause, close your eyes. Now think back to your last time in Paris. What is the first thing you remember? Is it the heady scent of the lilacs near Notre-Dame on a spring morning? Smoke rising from roasting chestnuts on a crisp winter day? The sight of a stately limestone townhouse, trimmed with lace-like wrought-iron balconies, glowing in the afternoon sun? Or perhaps a pink-tinged twilight by the bateaux-filled Seine?
Everyone entertains their own indelible Paris memories. It is a city, after all, that imprints itself on your senses. But that's only part of its allure that draws you back.
One of the reasons so many of us return to Paris is the fact that it invariably delivers. Paris is a city that resists change, which is why it rarely, if ever, disappoints. Right?
Well, when I visited Paris just before Christmas last year, I was struck by the fact that Paris is not quite the Paris I recalled from the last time we were able to visit.
I'm not talking about the ongoing repairs to Notre-Dame, looking somewhat forlorn behind a barricade of metal fencing, scaffolding and razor wire.
Nor am I talking about the bold plans for the 2024 Olympics, including a revolutionary opening ceremony that will unfurl along the Seine which is set to transform the nature of the Games' most glittering non-sporting events (and give Brisbane some French food for thought ahead of 2032).
No, what really struck me were the sweeping measures being rolled out by the city's polarising mayor, Anne Hidalgo, in her quest to turn Paris into a greener, more sustainable city, in the lead-up to the Games and beyond.
Hidalgo, who has been mayor since 2014 and who will challenge Emmanuel Macron for the presidency in this year's elections, aims to make the centre of Paris completely car-free, and has already started rolling out what will ultimately be 180 kilometres of bicycle lanes across the city.
Central streets including the Rue St Antoine and Rue de Rivoli are already dedicated almost entirely to bikes and pedestrians, a move that has literally changed the atmosphere in the city.
"It's so quiet now, and the air is cleaner," says artist Laura Courtney, an Australian artist who lives in Paris. "You don't realise how stressful traffic can make the city."
Bikes may not yet rival baguettes as a quintessential Parisian accessory but Courtney says locals have embraced cycling with typical Parisian flair.
"You see so many people on bicycles – there has been a 300 per cent increase in bike sales in Paris since 2019," she says. "You see even old ladies dressed to the nines, cycling along with their shiba inu dogs in their baskets."
As well as the continued rollout of cycleways, there is the billion-euro clean-up of the Seine. By 2025, there will be no fewer than five places to take a dip in the river.
Some of the city's major monuments are being reimagined too. The area around the Eiffel Tower is being converted into an urban park, while the jutting Montparnasse Tower - the city's most famous eyesore - will be adorned with hundreds of square metres of plants and gardens.
There are other disused spaces being reinvented, including an abandoned stretch of metro reconfigured as a dining destination packed with cafes, restaurants and bars.
The biggest change, however, is the planned greening of Paris. Hidalgo wants to see half of Paris covered by planted areas by 2030. Urban forests will appear next to the Palais Garnier and the Gare de Lyon station, and major planting is planned for the Place de la Concorde and the Champs-Elysees, which will also see traffic capacity halved in order to prioritise pedestrians.
"Parisians are really excited about the new green spaces the comity has budgeted for," says Riccardo Ortogni of the J.K. Place Paris hotel, adding that Parisians spend a lot of their time moving through their city. "In Paris, there is no better place than being outdoors to soak it all in."
One other thing Parisians are excited about is the return of tourists. Yes, in this once infamously over touristed city, absence really has made the heart grow fonder. "We even miss the Americans," laughs Courtney, "so now is the time to visit."
That's something with which Sarah Pank, the Australian founder of rental company Apartments Actually, agrees. "Everyone is so excited to put the last two years behind us and move on.
"You never know how much something means to you until it is taken away and I feel like Paris is the thing missing in people's lives. They have sat at home dreaming of another world and for many, that world is Paris."
If you want some inspiration for your next Paris trip, and we hope it's not too long from now, grab a croissant to nibble on and peruse our guide to both the old and new unmissable favourites of a City of Light finally flickering to life again.
THE MUSEUM
La Bourse du Commerce.
THE OLD
Long-overshadowed by the Louvre and the Musee d'Orsay, the wonderful Musee Carnavalet has reopened after a four-year renovation by acclaimed architects Snohetta. This fascinating museum traces the history of the city; especially compelling are the French Revolution and the models that show how the city developed over the years. See carnavalet.paris.fr
THE NEW
Take one neoclassical stock exchange. Add a superstar architect in the form of Tadao Ando and bring in a world-class contemporary art collection assembled by luxury goods magnate Francois Pinault and you have Paris' most compelling new museum, La Bourse du Commerce – Pinault Collection. See pinaultcollection.com
THE BISTRO
THE OLD
Wooden chairs, blackboard menu, low lighting, and a perfect plate of steak-frites: Bistro Paul Bert in the 11th arrondissement delivers everything you want from a traditional bistro. Their old-school approach extends to the lack of a website, with reservations only available by phone. If you don't speak French, ask your hotel to book you a table. No website
THE NEW
Chef Matthias Marc has made a splash with his portfolio of stylish restaurants and Liquide, his latest opening in the 1st arrondissement, is no exception. Marc showcases the ingredients of his native Jura region in delicate dishes such as trout tartare garnished with raspberries, grated horseradish and beetroot coulis, or roast pigeon stuffed with smoked morteau, a traditional sausage from the Jura. See liquide.paris
THE BOUTIQUE HOTEL
Hotel Madame Reve. Credit: Jerome Galland
THE OLD
L'Hotel contains some serious history within its walls. This is where Oscar Wilde famously breathed his last – but not every guest comes here on a literary pilgrimage. The convenient Saint-Germain-des-Prés location and the sumptuous Jacques Garcia interiors are just as much of a draw. See l-hotel.com
THE NEW
There's a soft golden glow to the interiors in the new Madame Reve hotel that gives you a sense of being in a place where life will flow more softly, and the staff make sure that's the case. With a basement spa, a rooftop bar and one of the most spectacular cafes in Paris, this stylish hotel is designed for cocooning. See madamereve.com
THE NEIGHBOURHOOD
The historic district of Marais.
THE OLD
With its blend of grand townhouses, narrow lanes and a village atmosphere, Le Marais has long been one of the city's most-loved districts. You can spend days browsing its cool boutiques, stopping in at its hip bars and discovering attractions including the Picasso Museum and the oldest covered market in Paris. See en.parisinfo.com
THE NEW
The gritty multicultural district of Belleville in Paris' east offers the chance to explore a different side of Paris, where Turkish boreks and Tunisian briks replace the baguette as a go-to snack. Head to Place Frehel and rue Denoyez for superb street art, take a break in the lovely Parc de Belleville, or dine in one of the area's buzzy restaurants such as Mensae or Le Grand Bain. See en.parisinfo.com
THE BAR WITH A VIEW
THE OLD
Paris has plenty of rooftop bars but if you want views of the Eiffel Tower served up alongside your aperitif, Le Georges delivers the goods. This rooftop bar – part of the brasserie atop the Centre Pompidou – is at its liveliest after the dinner crowd departs. Get in while you can: the Centre Pompidou is due to close for a three-year renovation from the end of 2023. See centrepompidou.fr
THE NEW
Paris' romantic zinc mansard roofs are the most distinctive element of its skyline, and they perfectly frame the view from Sequoia, the rooftop bar atop the new Kimpton St Honore Paris. Take a seat amid the lush greenery facing the ornate roof of the Opera and you are set for a memorable night. See sequoiabar.com
THE STYLISH STORE
.
THE OLD
Some 25 million people a year visit the Galeries Lafayette flagship store in the 2nd arrondissement, and not all of them are here to shop. The department store is known for its gorgeous interiors, particularly the 43-metre high dome in the main hall, a sight that stops first-time visitors in its tracks. See galerieslafayette.com
THE NEW
It took 16 years, but for many Parisians, the renovation of La Samaritaine has been worth the wait. The newly-reopened riverside department store facing the Pont Neuf has not only had its heritage-listed art nouveau and art deco design restored, it also has a striking new building designed by SANAA architects. See dfs.com
THE CHURCH
THE OLD
One of Paris' most-loved buildings, Notre-Dame de Paris is currently hidden away behind high fences. Reconstruction of the Gothic landmark, damaged in a 2019 blaze, is on track to be complete before the Olympics, although plans to modernise the interiors – including contemporary artwork and perhaps Bible quotes projected onto the wall – have aroused a strong reaction. See en.parisinfo.com
THE NEW
Is it a church or a factory? At Notre-Dame-du-Travail (Church of Our Lady of Labour) in the 14th arrondissement near the Montparnasse Tower, you could be forgiven for getting confused, thanks to the steel scaffolding and girders that form part of the design. Built at the beginning of the 20th century to cater for the area's factory workers, this unusual church also depicts saints as workers, with Saint Eloi as a goldsmith and Saint Fiacre as a gardener.
THE CAFE
The Hood in the 3rd arrondissement.
THE OLD
Don't bother trying to get a seat at Les Deux Magots at lunchtime – that's when tourists throng to this Left Bank favourite. Instead, head here later in the afternoon if you want to follow in the footsteps of de Beauvoir, Sartre, Hemingway and Picasso and enjoy the ambience at perhaps the only cafe in the world with its own literary prize. See lesdeuxmagots.fr
THE NEW
Helmed by a French-Vietnamese chef and serving locally-roasted coffee and biodynamic wines, The Hood in the 3rd arrondissement epitomises the Brooklyn-style cafe that young Parisians love. Its dedicated clientele helped fund renovations through a Kickstarter campaign, ensuring they could continue enjoying The Hood's banh mi and chai lattes. See thehoodparis.com
THE CULTURE PALACE
La Seine Musicale, a music and performing arts venue located on the Seguin island on the Seine river.
THE OLD
If you think the Palais Garnier opera house is impressive from the outside, just wait until you step inside. Featuring every flourish typical of the grand era of Napoleon III, its opulent interiors dazzle with reams of gilding and marble, as well as a magnificent grand staircase and a ceiling fresco by Marc Chagall. It's a magnificent setting for a night out. You can catch ballet or concert performances as well as opera, and guided and self-guided tours are also available. See operadeparis.fr
THE NEW
Head to the west of the city to see La Seine Musicale, the eye-catching music venue set on an island in the Seine. It's worth the trip. Designed by Japanese architect Shigeru Ban, the much talked-about building hosts both classical and contemporary music performances. Its sustainable features include a photovoltaic sail that rotates to follow the route of the sun. See laseinemusicale.com
THE BOOKSTORE
Wine shop and bookstore La Belle Hortense.
THE OLD
The tomes on the shelves aren't the only draw at Shakespeare and Company. Part of the joy of wandering through the shelves at this Left Bank bookstore is knowing that the likes of James Joyce and Ernest Hemingway were here before you. This legendary bookstore still runs its famous Tumbleweeds program, allowing visitors to sleep among the shelves. See shakespeareandcompany.com
THE NEW
Love to relax over a good book with a glass of wine? At La Belle Hortense, a combination bookshop and wine bar in the Marais, that's par for the course. You can even order a bite to eat, delivered from one of the neighbouring restaurants. That fact that it's open late into the night makes it the perfect place to pick up some bedtime reading. No website.
FIVE SIMPLE BUT TIMELESS PARISIAN PURSUITS
Paris perennial Les Deux Magots. Credit: Alamy
WALKING
The Metro will get you there quicker but we love to walk whenever we can. In the morning, when the light is soft; in the afternoon for people watching; in the evening for romance - a walk in Paris is always a good idea.
LUNCHING
The most memorable dining experiences aren't necessarily in the city's many Michelin-starred restaurants. The good value two-course lunches offered as a matter of course by restaurants at all price points are often impressive.
ABSORBING
The Louvre, the Musee d'Orsay, the Centre Pompidou, museums dedicated to Picasso and Rodin: Paris is a haven for art lovers. And in many cases, the museums are as stunning as their contents.
WATCHING
First-timers head to the steps of Sacre-Coeur in Montmartre. Old hands favour one of the long, low bridges spanning the Seine. Wherever you find yourself at sunset in Paris watching the night fall across the city is an irresistible Paris moment.
SITTING
It's the best bargain in Paris; a cup of (sometimes so-so) coffee gives you the right to settle in for some serious people-watching. More than anywhere else in the world, Parisian cafes are happy for you to linger with the people-watching unrivalled.
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