A place in the sun ... one of several wineries that have opened in Cornwall.Credit: Mark Chipperfield
The scenery isn't the only thing Mark Chipperfield drinks in as he cycles a disused railway track in Cornwall.
"SAND in the sandwiches, wasps in the tea," wrote the English poet Sir John Betjeman about his boyhood holidays in Cornwall, yet here I am sitting in a pretty little vineyard with a sunburnt neck and sipping a pleasant glass of Cornish rose.
Cornish rose? Correct. The West Country, traditionally the home of cider, is now making a name for itself as an emerging winemaking district, courtesy of global warming.
Local wine is not the only surprise. I'm also enjoying a week of almost perfect late-spring weather, with cloudless blue skies, gentle sea breezes and just a smattering of tourists clogging up the narrow lanes or wolfing down ice-cream on the seafront; half of England comes to Cornwall for no other reason.
All in all, these are ideal conditions for tackling one of north Cornwall's tourist drawcards: the 28-kilometre Camel Trail, a scenic bike track that follows a disused railway line from Padstow to Bodmin, skirting the sublime Camel Estuary.
Despite its exotic-sounding name, the Camel Trail is not a well-guarded secret. An estimated 350,000 walkers, cyclists and joggers use the track each year, so you need to plan your visit carefully to avoid the peak summer period and bank holidays; good accommodation is limited, so book ahead if possible.
Another warning: you are unlikely to see any dromedaries wandering this cycleway - the River Camel is a corruption of the Cornish phrase "dowr camel", meaning "the crooked one".
I'm here in the first week of June and the trail is almost deserted - apart from a few family groups, who do not venture much beyond the outskirts of Padstow, now Cornwall's hottest foodie destination, thanks to television chef and sometime Sydney resident Rick Stein.
While the Camel Trail is hardly going to challenge serious mountain bikers, weekend warriors will find the ride long enough - and packed with delicious scenery, historic towns, country inns and, yes, even a winery.
Stage one of the trail hugs the coastline, affording spectacular views across the unspoilt Camel Estuary. This is also the easiest section of the trail, so it's worth stopping occasionally to drink in the views and perhaps spy a cormorant, oystercatcher or heron also enjoying the sunshine.
Although much of the original railway line has disappeared, some sidings, bridges and culverts are still there; enough, indeed, to conjure up that romantic pre-war train journey from Waterloo to Padstow that so enthralled the young Betjeman.
First stop is the lovely market town of Wadebridge, which would make the perfect setting for a Thomas Hardy novel. There are plenty of Georgian buildings, dinky little alleyways, pastie shops and, luckily, a good choice of pubs. I stop at The Swan Hotel for a well-earned pint of St Austell IPA, a popular local drop.
Before hopping back on the bike, it's worth having a look at the old bridge from which the town takes its name. Dating from mediaeval times, this fine-looking bridge is said to be built on giant sacks of wool, once the source of the district's great wealth.
From Wadebridge, the Camel Trail heads inland to Bodmin and enters magnificent woodland, much of it managed by the Forestry Commission.
Originally opened in 1834, this is said to be one of the oldest sections of track in the world - and the experience is heightened by the arrival of a steam train carrying a party of exuberant puffer nutters.
After the bustle of Wadebridge, it's good to quicken the pace, racing past stations with evocative Cornish names such as Polbrock, Grogley Halt and Boscarne.
Just as I'm getting into my rhythm, I see a sign to the Camel Valley Vineyard and pull off the trail. The stone winery, up a short hill, looks as though it has been transported from South Australia and there's a decent crowd tasting in the cellar door or waiting for a vineyard tour.
Much to my surprise, I rather enjoy the wine. Best known for its sparkling wines, the vineyard has won various awards for its two whites (Bacchus Dry and Atlantic Dry) and rose.
From here, it's an easy ride into Bodmin, an important regional centre that dates back to AD530 and contains impressive buildings such as St Petroc's Church, Bodmin Gaol and the shire hall. The church, once the largest in Cornwall, dates from Norman times and is definitely worth visiting.
Depending on your fitness, you might like to ride an additional 11 kilometres to Wenfordbridge on the moors or, like me, plump for a more leisurely cycle back to Padstow, stopping at the Borough Arms (signposted from the trail) for a spot of late lunch and another well-earned pint. Alternatively, pick up a real Cornish pastie in Wadebridge - you'll love the peppery taste and crumbly pastry.
The return journey to Padstow seems to fly past, thanks to the gentle incline of the old railway track and two pints of St Austell's finest. There's plenty of time to enjoy the soft, rolling countryside, the occasional stand of oak or beech and the glory of the Camel Estuary glistening in the late-afternoon sun.
There are surely few cycle trails in the world that offer rolling farmland, quaint 15th-century churches, ancient forests, Georgian country towns, a brace of pubs and even a vineyard for good measure - with not a sandy sandwich or wasp-infected tea in sight.
The writer was a guest of VisitBritain and The Seafood Restaurant.
Trip notes
Getting there
British Airways flies daily to London. Return economy fares from $1958. Padstow is a five-hour drive from London but difficult to reach by public transport. Enterprise Rent-A-Car has outlets across London. Compact cars from £26.83 ($46.50) a day. +44 (0) 870 350 3000; enterprise.co.uk.
Touring there
The Camel Trail will suit even the occasional cyclist. Good-quality bikes are available from Padstow Cycle Hire for £12 a day. Child seats are also available. Book ahead. +44 (0) 1841 533 533; padstowcyclehire.com.
Staying there
The Seafood Restaurant, Riverside, Padstow, Cornwall: Sitting above Rick Stein's dining room are 16 immaculate guest rooms, including six suites. Doubles from £210 a night, including breakfast.
+44 (0) 1841 532 700; rickstein.com, or try St Petroc's Hotel and St Edmunds House.
More information
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