How do you make holy water? Boil the hell out of it, according to one hilarious and knowledgeable priest.
Including the definitive World War II museum, stunning heritage architecture and, of course, dumplings.
It is a rich, wild cultural smorgasbord and, after 30 years, word has spread. Poland's "Jewish Woodstock" is the biggest Jewish festival in Europe, some say the world.
Thirty years since the fall of communism, this is a country transformed.
It's unnerving to stand at a location which was almost a turning point in history.
'We lose people all the time,' said our local guide. I thought he was kidding.
Chef Bogdan Galazka's turf is the Gothic Cafe & Restaurant within Poland's 13th century Malbork Castle.