Putting on the royal ritz

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This was published 15 years ago

Putting on the royal ritz

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Jane E. Fraser plays queen to an imaginary king in an opulent South African hotel.

You have to admire the sort of people who dream up projects such as these, the sort of people who decide to spend $150 million on a grand palace for an ancient king who never existed (but would surely have been impressed if he had).

The Palace of the Lost City in South Africa could certainly pass for the royal residence of a lost African tribe, with its imposing architecture, opulent interior and lush surrounds.

Yet it was built only 15 years ago, as the flagship hotel of the Sun City gambling haven, two hours north-west of Johannesburg.

If you stay within the grounds of the Palace and ignore the flashing lights and chink-chink of the poker machines further down the hill, you can convince yourself you have stepped back to a mysterious and prosperous time when a regal king surveyed all that he ruled from this magnificent place.

Cast-bronze leopards and antelope greet you as you pull up in the driveway to be escorted, by a doorman, into the impressive lobby.

The domed roof of the lobby is intricately painted with African scenes, in what is presumably intended as Sun City's answer to the Sistine Chapel, and carpeted steps lead down to a dining room dominated by a huge chandelier.

Beyond are swimming pools, sundecks, alfresco restaurants and 10 hectares of jungle-like gardens, complete with lakes, waterfalls, meandering walking tracks and very cheeky monkeys.

We arrive as high tea is being presented in the dining room and the lavish spread of delicate cakes and tarts is certainly becoming of a king.

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There is no mention of a queen in this palace fable and I'm putting up my hand for the job if it means being fed like this.

If I were to be queen, I would order a refurbishment of the palace's guest rooms, which are a bit disappointing after the grandeur of the public areas.

"I think they spent all the money on the facade," another guest comments, summing up my feelings about the muted rooms.

The old-world style befits the palace theme but it looks dated and tired.

I know it is common in many countries but two single beds pushed together do not make a double bed in my book.

There are rooms with genuine king-sized beds but they are far outnumbered by twin rooms.

The service is also a bit hit and miss, ranging from extremely attentive to non-existent.

No need to dwell on the negatives, however, as there is plenty to do in the great outdoors, once I have double-checked the locks on my balcony doors, to stop the monkeys from raiding my minibar.

I am not at all enticed by the casino, man-made beach and other glitz of the Sun City complex. However, the resort is on the edge of the beautiful (and malaria-free) Pilanesberg National Park, which tempts with big-five game viewing and hot-air balloon safaris.

Only a few minutes away from Sun City is the private Letsatsing Game Reserve, where I head one afternoon for a sunset elephant-back safari.

In the space of a peaceful and relaxing couple of hours I see giraffe and rhinos close by and revel in the opportunity to interact closely with the elephants.

The next day it is time to leave the royal life but not before I feast on a sumptuous breakfast in the stately dining room.

I also take the elevator to the top floor and climb a couple of flights of stairs to the King Tower, which has sweeping views over Sun City and the rugged countryside.

It is a clear blue day and with no one else around, I am free to enjoy the views and sun in peace.

Yes, I could be queen here.

I'd have to make a few changes but who would argue with royalty?

The writer was a guest of South African Tourism and South African Airways.

TRIP NOTES

Staying there

The Palace of the Lost City, Sun City Resort, South Africa. Rates start at about $640 a room a night. Book well in advance to secure a room. Phone +27 14 557 1000, see http://www.suninternational.com.

Getting there

South African Airways has five weekly flights from Sydney to Johannesburg. Phone (02) 9286 8960 or see http://www.flyssaa.com. Sun City is a two-hour drive from Johannesburg.

For more information

South African Tourism, phone 1800 238 643, see www.southafrica.net.

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