This was published 1 year ago
Queen Elizabeth II death procession in Edinburgh: Caught up in the world's biggest event
Crowds watch as the hearse carrying the coffin of Queen Elizabeth II makes its way to the Palace of Holyroodhouse in EdinburghCredit: AP
There's a Union Jack flying in Scotland, which is a sure sign something is up. The British flag is a rare sight up in these parts, even though Scotland remains – for now at least – part of the union. Mostly it's the Scottish flag, the Saltire, that you see fluttering in the cold breeze.
Today, however, there's a Union Jack flying at half-mast outside the tiny chapel on the island of Lambholm in Orkney, all the way up in the far north of Scotland. It's a strange enough sight here, in a place so remote and removed, to make you stop and consider its significance.
That significance, of course, is that Queen Elizabeth II, reigning monarch over this kingdom for more than 70 years, has died. News filtered through yesterday afternoon. Today, a smattering of Union Jacks can be spotted at official sites in Orkney (though private establishments still have the Saltire flying, or the red-and-yellow Orkney flag).
Crowds watch as the hearse carrying the coffin of Queen Elizabeth II passes Mercat Cross in Edinburgh.Credit: AP
The Queen has died. Even up here on the islands it's big news, though it's maybe not met with the same outpouring of public grief that it is much further south in England. A few bunches of flowers begin appearing outside the main church in Kirkwall, St Magnus Cathedral, after the announcement is made. I overhear a local woman mention to another, "Well she's not on our money, so we don't have to change it."
Mostly, Orkney goes on with its business.
Cut to a couple of days later in Edinburgh, however, and that's not exactly the case. Yes, we're still in Scotland, though crucially – as a taxi driver grumbles to me – so is Queen Elizabeth II.
The monarch died in Balmoral, the royal residence in northern Scotland, which means her body will be transferred to Edinburgh for a short period of rest in Holyroodhouse, before being carried down the Royal Mile to St Giles Cathedral, and eventually taken to London.
Edinburgh is mayhem. People everywhere. Roads closed, barriers up. The procession hasn't even arrived on the day I'm wandering around the Royal Mile area and it's already packed with police, with news crews, with tourists, with well-wishers, with gawkers.
I'm just trying to buy a bottle of whisky.
It's always a mixed experience, being caught up like this in major world events when you're travelling. That Edinburgh cab driver said he'd apologised to an American couple he'd driven around, that he was sorry for the chaos in his city, for the bad experience they'd probably be having. "Are you serious?" the couple had said. "We're gonna tell our grandkids about this!"
And there is definitely some excitement when you find yourself in a situation like this, having randomly happened to place yourself at the centre of the world's attention. Plenty of people want to be here for an event like this – plenty of people are trying. Hotels in Edinburgh are booked solid. London is the same.
I've found myself in the middle of a few big events on my travels. I was in Scotland, again, when Princess Diana died, and witnessed the shock and grief of a nation. I was in Dubai a few days after Sheikh Maktoum bin Rashid Al Maktoum, the city-state's revolutionary leader, the creator of the Dubai we know today, had passed away. The Emirate was in a period of faithfully observed mourning, where public attractions were closed, bars and restaurants were closed, there wasn't even any music allowed to be played on the radio.
In some ways it's amazing to be in a place like that during a time of such significance, to have a window into what this person meant to this place. It's a privilege to share a little in the grief, not to mention the sense of occasion. In other ways, of course, it would be nice to just go out for a meal.
I've been in places where there are mass strikes and demonstrations, seismic local events that will shape a nation. These aren't exactly tourist attractions, but they're fascinating. I've happened upon national holidays, unexpected celebrations of independence and identity that shut everything down, that force you to mould your travel plans around these unforeseen events.
That's something I'm doing in Edinburgh, too. I'm not going back to the Royal Mile. I'm staying in Leith, far away from the action, which is fine by me. I'm also heading to the airport on the same day and at around the same time the royal procession is making its way from Balmoral, through the outskirts of Edinburgh and on to Holyroodhouse.
The streets will likely be lined with well-wishers many rows deep. The procession will move along Queensferry Road, a major thoroughfare which also happens to be the street you would normally use to get from Leith to Edinburgh Airport. I assume my taxi driver will go another way.
I won't get to see the crowds who will gather, some no doubt waving Union Jacks, a rare sight in Scotland, maybe one of the last times it will ever happen.
But I'll know I was there.
Email: b.groundwater@traveller.com.au
Instagram: instagram.com/bengroundwater
Twitter: twitter.com/bengroundwater
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