Raffles Istanbul hotel review, Turkey: That old, new-world charm

For me, Raffles is old world glamour. In the early 1980s, my parents took me for high tea at the Raffles Singapore when I was barely as high as the table. I had no idea what luxury travel was – but what with those slow-moving teak ceiling fans, exotic Persian rugs, white gloves, dainty cucumber sandwiches and starched white napkins, I knew I wanted more. A lot more.

So when I was invited to the opening of the shiny new-build Raffles Istanbul in October, my initial reaction was concern. It felt like cheating. Ever since that high tea 35-plus years ago, each and every time I visit Singapore I return to worship at the Raffles shrine, if only to sip an Earl Grey tea in Ah Teng's Bakery if I haven't the time or pennies for anything more. Raffles Singapore was my first - and I always imagined my last. I'm still intoxicated, all these years later.

So could I do Istanbul? Not only was this cheating - it was new, not old Raffles. I'll own up to the fact that I'd still rather stay at the original. However, what Raffles Istanbul taught me is old-world glamour can be made over with great success. The key point for me is that Istanbul Raffles is not trying to emulate its historical siblings in cities such as Singapore or Phnom Penh.

Yes, there is a Writers and a Long bar plus Raffles' signature 24-hour-butler service in a nod to heritage and brand continuity, but that is it. New Raffles is new Raffles. Let's start in the foyer. Walk through the grand onyx and gold vestibule to be confronted by a dramatic photo montage that takes out almost the entire wall: a re-imagining of Istanbul's historic DolmabahcePalace by French hyper-photo realist Jean-Francois Rauzier. It's gaze worthy to the point where, despite my long-haul exhaustion, I can hardly tear myself away from it. The glittering piece certainly sets the tone for Raffles Istanbul's theme of a re-interpretation of Turkish history, or, as they put it, "the dream of Istanbul".

Once checked in, I'm taken to a 180-square-metre spacious corner Horizon Suite with a generous wrap-around balcony that looks over the local Besiktas district to the city - and across the Bosphorus strait. (The only catch is this suite will set you back about $1364 a night. Other than that, it's pure bliss). The private butler makes an expert judgment call that, after my 24-hour trek from Australia, I'm too tired to grapple with room technology tonight. He points out the master switch and leaves me with a fruit platter, fresh baklava - and a bed the size of the Grand Bazaar down the road. It takes me a good five minutes to get from the edge of it to the middle.

Next morning after a breakfast buffet in the relaxed Rocca Restaurant that's as much of a melting pot as Istanbul (think Scottish salmon, lemon wedges and capers or hummus, fakouh beans and eggs with yoghurt or croissants with homemade jam; bircher muesli, fresh juices; bacon and eggs and the famous Raffles omelette or eggs benedict), I'm back in that foyer gazing at the Rauzier. The hotel upholds Raffles' historic traditions with constant reinterpretation of Turkish artistry: picture clever contemporary use of mosaic tiles, crystal lighting, byzantine decorative touches and colours - from black to navy blue with red pops - plenty of silverware (and of course Turkish teapots), clever use of mirrors, modern local artworks. A huge reflecting pool in the foyer evokes the city's proud trading history. Day spas rarely grab me aside from the benefit of a relaxing massage after a long flight, but at Raffles the spa a work of art, as is the signature treatment: a 60-minute rose, honey and sugar hamam experience, designed by Margo Marrone (of The Organic Pharmacy) for Raffles.

"Turkey is the home of rose and honey," says Marrone.