Keep it authentic ... the lobby of wood and gold at The Langham, Yangtze Boutique.
As Shanghai prepares to show off to the world, two grand hotels flaunt the city's art deco heritage.
The Langham, Yangtze Boutique
For years, cranes and scaffolding have been the motif for Shanghai as it prepares to host World Expo 2010. As the May 1 opening nears, the energy of this bustling metropolis of 19 million people is obvious, even from my taxi on the way in from the airport.
My destination is the refurbished Yangtze Boutique hotel, part of the Langham Hotels group, which opened as an art deco gem in the 1930s. The brief for this makeover was to be true to old Shanghai in tone and ambience, authentic to its original architecture but accommodating modern expectations of a five-star hotel.
The lobby is all dark wood, swirling carpets in rich reds and black, with gold detailing. My room is lighter, spacious and elegant, with the customary high-end "essentials" - a king-size bed with crisp linen and an enormous marble bathroom with flat-screen TV at the end of the tub. I fling open the doors to my balcony and let in the sounds and smells of Shanghai.
Later, I take a tour of the historic Bund with architect Spencer Dodington, an art deco expert. He shares his passion for the fine buildings that line this stretch of the Huangpu River, including the HSBC building with its extraordinary interior and the Peace Hotel, where renovations began in 2007.
Also on Dodington's tour is Xin Tian Di - a neighbourhood of old shikumen, two- or three-storey 1920s houses unique to Shanghai. The restored shikumen are now cafes, restaurants, bars and shops - it's a good place for coffee and people-watching, even if the area feels international rather than Chinese in flavour. The Shikumen Museum offers an intimate look at the era though, with a house set up as if the family has just stepped out for the day. Less orderly and more arty is Taikang Lu, where locals live in the labyrinth of galleries, shops and restaurants.
My stay passes in a whirl of dumplings, shopping and walks. And at the end of the day there's my room to return to, where someone turns down the bed and leaves my hotel slippers poised just so. As a parting indulgence, I'm treated to a facial at the hotel's Chuan Spa and leave Shanghai with skin aglow and senses rejuvenated.
- Tanya Adams
Tanya Adams travelled courtesy of Langham Hotels.
The Peninsula, Shanghai
This is the first new building on the Bund in 60 years and marks a return to familiar territory. It was opened in October by the Peninsula's parent company, the Hongkong and Shanghai Hotels Limited, which once ran four of the city's finest hotels: the Kalee, Majestic, Palace and Astor House.
Overlooking the Huangpu River, Pudong and the gardens of the former British Consulate, the hotel's 235 rooms in art deco style are signature Peninsula, with the marble bathrooms and valet box for shoe polishing also present in its eight other hotels across Asia and the US, where a third generation of guests is now welcomed.
There's also the fleet of Rolls-Royces to transport guests to and fro. The hotel's traditional high tea continues - delicate sandwiches, scones and jam served from silver stands - and with it the revival of afternoon tea dances (formal dress required) and an 18-piece big band every Sunday, which, the hotel says, began at the Astor House in 1923. The Peninsula in Paris is due to open in 2012. For now, there's a Pen in the city once known as the Paris of the east.
- Jane Reddy
FAST FACTS
Getting there
Air China has a fare to Shanghai for about $970, flying non-stop. China Eastern charges $1030 for a non-stop flight. Fares are low-season return from Sydney and Melbourne, including tax. Australians require a visa for a stay of up to 30 days.
Staying there
The Langham, Yangtze Boutique: rooms from 3300 yuan ($535) + 15 per cent tax. Phone +86 21 6080 0800, yangtzeboutique.langhamhotels.com.
The Peninsula, Shanghai: Rooms from 3200 yuan + 15 per cent tax. Phone 1800 116 888, see peninsula.com.
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