Red Dog Retreat, Kangaroo Valley accommodation review: Weekend away

The location

The patchwork of farms and forest that covers the steep hills and valleys between the towns of Kangaroo Valley and Berry represent one of the prettiest regions south of Sydney. On the valley floors, green pasturelands that leave the word "lush" panting for breath rise into thick forest to meet the sheer cliffs of the escarpment, which tower above the valleys like the rusting hulls of titanic ships.

The place

There are two cottages here 100 metres apart, set in separate clearings surrounded by majestic gum trees. Each is a country classic, rustic on the outside, cosy and well equipped on the inside. Each comes with two bedrooms with french doors that open from the main bedroom to the veranda. Décor is country-quirky. Room lights are shaded by iron tractor seats and corrugated iron features behind the wood-burning iron stove and the spa bath. Bring your own linen and towels or pay to be provided with them.

The experience

Kangaroo Valley feels like the village that time forgot, a folksy throwback where the locavore Cafe Bella dishes out Mediterranean-inspired snacks and meals. Cyclists can enjoy a fabulous descent from the retreat either to Kangaroo Valley or to Berry, but the homeward climb is a serious challenge. In warm weather, hire a canoe at Hampden Bridge and paddle downstream for a couple of hours Wind in the Willows-style, the current doing half the work.

Don't miss

Lunch at the Berry Sourdough Bakery, renowned for its pastries, bread and robust but refined country cooking. Take a drive along Upper Kangaroo River Road as it wanders through farmland and stop off at Yarrawa Estate Winery. Afterwards, park at the "Road Closed" sign and walk the final two kilometres of the road to the delightful Flat Rock River Rapids, a great spot for a picnic, especially if there are kids in tow.

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