Wide open spaces ... the views across Dinner Plain.
Julie Miller gathers her steed for a joyride across Victoria's alpine country.
The wind is in our favour, blowing laughter, chatter and the jingle of bits into the distant ether. But as we approach a ridge, the banter subsides, replaced by a collective indrawn breath and stunned silence. There before us, in an enormous grassy bowl about 2 kilometres in diameter, are 40-odd wild horses, grouped into six distinct herds. One mob has already taken flight, manes flapping as they gallop for the cover of trees; others stand alert, nostrils flared, muscles quivering.
Protective mares gather their foals, sheltering them from danger, and a black stallion emerges from nowhere, tossing his handsome head and shepherding his charges into a tighter bunch before leading them to safety.
For at least 10 minutes, we observe in awe. Even our mounts are fascinated, ears pricked with curiosity. For, while brumbies are common enough in Victoria's high country (an estimated 1000 remain in the wild), it's not often you see them in such large numbers, away from the camouflage of trees.
We are also acutely aware that we are probably the only human beings experiencing this today. In our three days of riding, our group of nine, exploring the Alpine National Park with Packer's High Country Horse Riding, has met only five other riders, a handful of campers and two lonely walkers, munching on apples under the shade of a tree. It's school holidays, peak summer – and no one else is here.
But that is the appeal of this 646,000-hectare national park – wilderness as far as the eye can see. Every step feels like a privilege as we ride through the ever-changing landscape, picking our way across boggy streams, cantering up hills strewn with wildflowers or clambering up rocky outcrops, cameras poised to capture the expansive vista of muted greens, golds and blues.
"This is the most beautiful place in the world," a young Dutchman yells joyously after a photo opportunity on top of the world. Rolf and his partner, Tina, said they'd been expecting red-dirt country; they could not believe the space, the clean air, the lack of civilisation, the sheer magnificence.
"Not a bad office, huh?" says Helen Packer, as she steers her bay mare through a grove of snow gums, stripped bare by the fires of 2003.
Based at Anglers Rest, 35 kilometres north of Omeo, Packer leads about eight high-plains rides a season (December to March), with shorter rides – from 1 hours to full-day trips – available from her property, The Willows.
We begin our four-day high country adventure in this rustic, yet comfortable, homestead. Soft beds, hot showers and a hearty breakfast of gourmet frittata are a soft introduction to the rigours ahead. Although we've been greeted with glorious sunshine, we are warned against complacency – it's not unusual for the weather to turn in the mountains and we must be prepared with thermal underwear, beanies and Drizabones strapped to the front of our saddles.
It seems like a motley bunch of riders setting off. As well as the guests from Holland, our group includes a teacher from Noosa, a competitive showjumper from Victoria riding his own thoroughbred gelding and a family from Vaucluse, NSW, consisting of a dad and his three pony-mad daughters under the age of 13.
Although a little concerned about the presence of children, it soon becomes evident the girls are all capable riders and up for an adventure – not once did I hear them complain, despite long hours in the saddle.
Nestled on 350 acres alongside the Bundarra River, the first hour or so of the trek is spent on The Willows, acclimatising riders to their mounts and preparing us for the climb ahead. Entering the neighbouring national park, it's then a steady ascent through dense bushland to our first welcome campground – the charming Charlie McNamara's hut, a dilapidated cattleman's shanty cloaked in soft, dappled light, with ample space for tired horses to graze.
In this grassy meadow, camping is a joy even for luxury-lovers such as myself – the ground is soft and with the addition of a tent, air mattress, sleeping bag, doona and thermals, we all get a reasonable sleep, despite the temperature dropping below zero overnight. Whatever aches and pains may have developed are soon forgotten as we are presented with a massive camp breakfast – bacon and tomato, scrambled eggs and billy tea, all deliciously smoky from the open fire. Then it's off to collect our horses, saddle up and hit the high plains.
With vast open spaces and a brisk breeze whipping through the trees, even the most level-headed horse can get a bit excited – and it's for this reason Packer insists those booked on her multi-day treks are experienced riders, at least capable of staying on at a canter. With small children along, extra precautions are also taken to ensure a safe ride, with the group splitting into two groups when necessary: those who want to take it easy and those up for an adrenaline-pumping gallop across the grassy plains.
It was heartening, however, to see the joy on the children's faces as they took on new challenges – an uphill canter or their first jump over a fallen log. They even seemed amused by the prospect of washing in an icy creek or using the thunderbox amenities; truly a "room with a view".
New friendships were forged around a roaring fire and equine pals secured forever, the girls brushing, patting and fussing over their ponies whenever possible. And binding everyone together was a shared love of horses, adventure and the great outdoors – the perfect recipe for the ultimate Man from Snowy River adventure.
TRIP NOTES
GETTING THERE
Packer's High Country Horse Riding is at Anglers Rest, 5 hours' drive from Melbourne or 9 hours' drive from Sydney via Falls Creek. Phone (03) 5159 7241.
THE RIDES
Guided trail rides of 1.5 hours up to an entire day start at $80.
A Willows Bush Ride Indulgence package, including two nights' accommodation at The Willows, all meals and riding costs $400 per person.
A 4-day/5-night High Plains trek costs $1620, or $2035 for the 5-day/6-night ride.
FURTHER INFORMATION
See horsetreks.com for scheduled treks from December to March.
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