Riding the cliffs in Cuenca, Spain opens new daredevil pursuit: Canyoning

We’re sorry, this feature is currently unavailable. We’re working to restore it. Please try again later.

Advertisement

This was published 9 years ago

Riding the cliffs in Cuenca, Spain opens new daredevil pursuit: Canyoning

By Guy Wilkinson
Off the edge: Canyoning in Cuenca.

Off the edge: Canyoning in Cuenca.Credit: John Borthwick

"This isn't a theme park," says our guide Agustin Segarra. "There will be some cuts and bruises. But we're here to experience something real, not Disneyland."

The waters of the Jucar River Gorge are bone-chillingly cold. Steep, serrated canyon walls shield us from the midday sun amid a raw landscape. Although I'm wearing a thick wetsuit, booties and a helmet, the water temperature steals my breath away the second I enter the river. But the worst is yet to come.

A steady current carries us downstream towards a series of smooth boulders, strewn at random as if by the hand of some nefarious Greek God. At last we reach the first of them. Scrambling up its slippery stone face, I jam my rubber-clad toes into narrow nooks, slowly hauling myself up towards the top. It's then I notice the 10-metre drop back down into the river. There's only one thing left to do: jump.

Hanging in: Clifftop houses in Cuenca.

Hanging in: Clifftop houses in Cuenca.Credit: Guy Wilkinson

A few days ago, I'd casually signed up to a canoeing excursion. But a mistranslation revealed I was in fact going canyoning.

We arrived in the town of Cuenca 170 kilometres east of Madrid largely unaware such daredevil pursuits were even possible.

Almost 1000 metres above sea level in the mountainous Serrania region, Cuenca is a World Heritage-listed gem dating back over 1200 years. It's famous mostly for its Casas Colgadas or hanging houses, a series of buildings teetering over the rim of a sheer cliff face plunging hundreds of metres down into the Huecar River Gorge.

Village life: A bar in Cuenca.

Village life: A bar in Cuenca.Credit: Guy Wilkinson

Built in the 15th Century, the houses were once commonplace but only a handful remain. They served as a refuge for artists who fled the iron-fisted rule of General Franco in the 1950s.

Advertisement

Today, they're uninhabited but the most famous has been renovated to house the outstanding Spanish Museum of Abstract Art

But Cuenca's proximity to the Great Outdoors is what really elevates it from a great travel destination to something truly exceptional. The surrounding Sierra de Cuenca region is a Mecca for mountain biking, trekking, kayaking, rock climbing and yes…even canyoning.

On the edge: 'Barranqismo' river adventure on Rio Jucar.

On the edge: 'Barranqismo' river adventure on Rio Jucar.Credit: John Borthwick

On the river, a strange transition has occurred. Ascending one rock face after another, my initial nerves and anxiety have been replaced with a newfound thirst for adrenalin.

The landscape shifts continually and a new obstacle challenges us around every bend. We navigate minor rapids, leap from boulders and small cliff edges or simply let the river's current whip us around like a carnival ride.

Flanking the front and rear, our guides constantly advise us on what to look out for but the excursion never feels overly policed. At one point, on Segarra's suggestion, we form a human chain, floating backwards over the lip of a tiny waterfall, the driving current temporarily drowning out our elated screams.

At the edge: Hanging Houses of Cuenca, Spain.

At the edge: Hanging Houses of Cuenca, Spain.Credit: Getty Images

But the grand finale could not be further removed from moments of blissful serenity.

Up on a cliff, maybe 15-20 metres from the river below, Segarra has one last dare. It's known as "The Leap of Faith". At the peak, an upwardly sloping gradient makes it impossible to see over the edge.

Perhaps clocking my disquiet, Segarra peppers me with questions in his broad Spanish accent.

"Which football team do you support?" he asks.

"Er.. Liverpool," I manage, trying hard to ignore the shrieks of the jumper ahead who has just vanished from sight.

"Ahh, then you will never jump alone," he says, gesturing towards the river.

Bolting forward, my back foot propels me from the ledge, driving me forward as far from the rock face as possible.

In a split second, I take it all in; the thrilling horror of the drop, the expectant faces, the wall of cobalt blue racing up to meet me. I hit the water's surface hard, arms tucked firmly by my side, the exhilarating rush of cold water only exacerbating the feeling euphoria.

When I surface looking back up to where the next jumper is preparing to launch, it occurs to me such antics would have seemed unthinkable just a couple of hours ago. Sizing up the cliff, I consider scaling the rock for a second attempt.

MORE INFORMATION

See spain.info

GETTING THERE

Etihad flies from Sydney to Madrid see etihadairways.com

Rail Europe offers ongoing connecting rail passes from Madrid to Cuenca, See raileurope.com.au

STAYING THERE

The 34-room Convento del Giraldo hotel is ideally situated in the centre of the old town with views across the Huecar River Gorge from selected rooms. Prices from AU$70. See hotelconventodelgiraldo.com/en/

SEE + DO

La Avertura de Cabrejas runs canyoning adventures; a half day excursion starts from AU$45. See adventuradecabrejas.com

The writer was a guest of Spain Tourism, Rail Europe and Etihad Airways.

Sign up for the Traveller Deals newsletter

Get exclusive travel deals delivered straight to your inbox. Sign up now.

Most viewed on Traveller

Loading