This was published 15 years ago
Rolling through a land of rare majesty
Heather-clad glens, woods and flowing rivers - Michael McDonough explores the Highlands.
YOU DON'T have to be royalty to enjoy a majestic time in the Scottish Highlands near Balmoral, the sweeping estate where Prince Charles and Camilla, Duchess of Cornwall, spent their recent honeymoon.
All you need is an appetite for healthy outdoor pursuits and enough time to appreciate the beautiful scenery of purple heather-clad glens, rich pine woods and flowing rivers.
Anyone in a rush risks being frustrated by the twisty, narrow Highlands roads that can turn a trip of several dozen kilometres into a long drive, albeit one the traveller is unlikely to forget not least because of the locals' alarmingly fast driving.
A good road into the eastern Highlands is the A93 that starts outside the historic city of Perth and almost immediately passes Scone Palace, the crowning place of Scottish kings, including Macbeth.
The first part of the drive took me through lush green pastures dotted with sturdy cottages in whitewashed stone and slate roofs. The large number of dead pheasants on the road made for a vivid reminder of Scotland's rich wildlife.
Rolling fields give way to small but steep valleys patterned with shaggy grass, heather and rocks. Frequent parking spaces along the smooth-surfaced road, allow visitors to stop and take in the eerie sense of isolation.
Apart from sheep, the inhabitants you are most likely to see in this region are the wild deer that gather within easy viewing distance.
On the horizon loomed the summit of Cairnwell Mountain, which in early April was still streaked with snow and appeared much higher than its 900 metres.
The peak on the edge of the Cairngorm range is part of the Glenshee ski station, which opens from December to April, depending on snowfall. It is best visited in February or March.
As Balmoral Castle drew nearer, the rugged landscape made way for dense pine forests, small stone bridges and the bubbling River Dee that gives its name to the region, Royal Deeside.
The small village of Crathie is the stopping point for a visit to Balmoral, Queen Elizabeth II's highland retreat and favourite summer holiday destination. Her ancestor Queen Victoria built the castle some 150 years ago and spent much of her reign there after the death of her beloved husband Prince Albert.
Balmoral is open to visitors daily from late March until early August. A visit includes access to the castle gardens and the ballroom, the only room in the castle open to the public.
Visitors to the estate can follow guided walks, go pony trekking or pay to fish on the castle grounds, which have holiday cottages available for rental, although restrictions apply during the summer. Birkhall, the hunting lodge on the estate where Charles and Camilla spent their honeymoon, is closed to the public.
About a 15-kilometre drive from Balmoral lies Ballater, a pretty town of grey stone houses, cozy pubs and friendly shops, many of which bear gilded coats of arms indicating royal patronage.
Bed-and-breakfasts are plentiful in Ballater, and in mid-spring only a few days' notice was required to get a room at the comfortable Craigard Lodge. But reservations should be made well in advance for the summer, the peak tourist season.
The area has several hotels, including the Hilton Craigendarroch, just outside Ballater.
A hearty Scottish breakfast which may include porridge then eggs, bacon, sausages, tomatoes and black pudding is recommended if vigorous outdoor pursuits are planned.
Salmon fishing, mountain biking, hiking and golf are among the many activities on offer.
The spectacular Loch Muick is easily reachable from Ballater. A walk around the lake takes several hours.
Thick woollen jumpers, colourful pottery, honey and delicious homemade shortbread biscuits are among the articles shoppers may want to bring back as Highland souvenirs. Among the culinary treats on offer, the local salmon stands out.
I didn't see any haggis on menus nor did I seek out the Scottish delicacy made of sheep's offal cooked in the animal's stomach.
The Balmoral area is easily reachable by car from Edinburgh, which is linked to Perth and the start of the A93 by the M90 freeway.
Numerous car hire firms operate at Edinburgh Airport.
TRIP NOTES
· Royal Deeside: Tourism information for the area, http://www.royal-deeside.org.uk.
Craigard Lodge Bed & Breakfast: Abergeldie Road, Ballater, Scotland, AB35 5RR. Phone (from Australia 0011 44) 133 975 3258. Three rooms, rates from £24 ($56) per person with breakfast.
· Hilton Craigendarroch: Braemar Road, Ballater, Scotland, AB35 5XA. See http://www.hilton.co.uk or phone 133 975 5858. Rates from £60 per person.
· Balmoral Castle and estate: Access from the visitor centre at Crathie, on the A93 midway between Braemar and Ballater. See http://www.balmoralcastle.com or phone 133 974 2534. Open daily 10am-5pm until August 1. Admission £6.
· Scone Palace: On the A93, three kilometres north of Perth. See http://www.scone-palace.co.uk or phone 1738 552 300. Open daily 9.30am-5.30pm until October 31. Admission: £6.95.
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